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This was done with the air temp about 70f

2013 R/T 6M with JBA shorties, Greene Racing Cam and Tune


 

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Does this look inflated to you guys? Anyone know what the cause could be? Something I'm missing just by looking at the slip?

I was super excited at first, but now that I think about it... it doesn't make a ton of sense?
My only HP/TQ performance mods are the whipple 2.9L, mopar cai, zoomers cat-back, and a dyno tune which is where this report came from. 2011 5.7L 6-speed running 8lbs of boost.
This was sent by a very well respected vendor on this site (who did the install), but the dyno they use is independent from them.
Could be correct, if you see a 45% increase that would be about right.
I am putting 388 to the rear wheels so I am expecting around 550 when I install the maggie with 8 pounds of boost.

Seems high for a stock block @ 8lbs, but dyno's are just a tool, trap speed at the track will tell you how much power you really have.
True. I before and after on the same dyno would have been helpful to measure change.
 

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Dynocom low result issue with blocked front wheels

https://youtu.be/r0ALp61mdAA

Long story short, May 2018 testing on a Dynocom setup. 5th run video I'll figure out how to link to YouTube and edit this post with link. You'll see the first three runs were 277, 277, and 255. Horribly under my expectations. I double checked everything behind the owner/operator, who was equally puzzled. I suggested we let the front wheels spin free. That's when the numbers all change. Runs 4 and 5 are 328 and 315. we did 5 runs in 30 minutes so the drop off is not surprising but at least we figured out WTF. I found a couple older threads on this forum suggesting this same issue with the Dynocom design/setup but without the solution I arrived at.

-Browclops
 

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https://youtu.be/r0ALp61mdAA

Long story short, May 2018 testing on a Dynocom setup. 5th run video I'll figure out how to link to YouTube and edit this post with link. You'll see the first three runs were 277, 277, and 255. Horribly under my expectations. I double checked everything behind the owner/operator, who was equally puzzled. I suggested we let the front wheels spin free. That's when the numbers all change. Runs 4 and 5 are 328 and 315. we did 5 runs in 30 minutes so the drop off is not surprising but at least we figured out WTF. I found a couple older threads on this forum suggesting this same issue with the Dynocom design/setup but without the solution I arrived at.

-Browclops
Did you pull the fuse for ESP or enable 'dyno mode' using a tuner?
My 2010 does the same thing if you don't do one of the two.
You can also disable ESP/BAS using the 'key trick'.
 

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Did you pull the fuse for ESP or enable 'dyno mode' using a tuner?
My 2010 does the same thing if you don't do one of the two.
You can also disable ESP/BAS using the 'key trick'.
Good suggestions, and I appreciate that advice.
I have not done any fuse pulls yet.
I do not have a tuner currently.
I did try the Key Trick on a few occasions, at low varying speeds and wait times, without success. There seem to be variables, like having SuperTrackPack STP or not (I do not), that cause this to fail for me. Or my technique might be bad. My wife would say it's because I'm a moron :crazy:

This was a solution to a singular issue with a specific dyno, the Dynocom. Releasing the front wheels to spin freely will result in HP and torque numbers that are not so unexpectedly low you want to sell the car, and I imagine can be done regardless of anything else an individual car may or may not have altered. It's also possible that a more informed dyno operator could program the dyno for my setup and eliminate the situation all together, but that is neither here nor there :lol:

-Browclops
 

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My 2014 RT Plus did 374 rwhp and 365 lbs torque at 5373 rpms. Have not dyno'd my new 6.4 as of yet.
 

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This doesn't seem right to me and if it is I should probably get a bigger pulley.
90+ degrees 50% humidity. 9lbs boost
527rwhp 485rwt
 

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