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I installed the front Eibach sway bar yesterday and took it out for a test drive and I have to say the biggest change I notice is the recovery from the turns. It also doesn't roll as much and it's on the lighter setting. There's a tight exit off the highway where I get off in the evening after biking so will see how it feels. I'll move it to the tighter setting tomorrow and test again to see the difference in both settings before I decide which setting to keep it on.
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the inner holes (higher roll stiffness) will have it act sooner and will provide more anti-roll / body lean effect.

I've always said that sway bar / stabilizer bars are the most effective item that reduces body roll.

There's been all the posts about the strut tower braces - its the stabilizer bars that do all the work.

I have the SP Wide Body (front and rear) bars on order to install on my '16 SPS - waiting for those to come it.

I had changed sway bars on my former '09 and it made a significant difference.

This go - around I've kept mine stock as I didn't want to deal with the re-lubing maintenance that poly bushings require - my front bushings needed this about every 15 - 18 months as they'd groan / squeak when the grease dried up.

Now that the WB bars are out (hollow in front is confirmed) I can get a larger bar and shave off 6#. The rear bar is larger (22mm) vs. my OEM one that's 19mm.

the rear bar is more work - as you have to unbolt & lower the IRS cradle by 4" to access the stabilizer bars' brackets and remove it from the top of the cradle (which I've done in the past)
 
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I've always said that sway bar / stabilizer bars are the most effective item that reduces body roll.

There's been all the posts about the strut tower braces - its the stabilizer bars that do all the work.
This is correct. I've been trying to get a certain vendor (that steals designs and charges ridiculous shipping) to learn the difference for some time. Selling people something to "prevent body roll" that only negligibly helps with deflection is dishonest and uninformed.
 

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After installing do you need a alinement?
 

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Thanks , year of your Challenger, where you bought your sway bar , thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #7

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Thanks you
 
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This is correct. I've been trying to get a certain vendor (that steals designs and charges ridiculous shipping) to learn the difference for some time. Selling people something to "prevent body roll" that only negligibly helps with deflection is dishonest and uninformed.
yep - if there was that much deflection in the body (strut towers) the windshield would probably break free of its adhesive or door glass would move around in the seals. Or hood edges would contact fenders. This doesn't happen.

my '60s and '70s Mopars - talk about body flex and torsional rigidity. My roadrunner had stress cracks in the skins of the A-pillars. I had put urethane end links on the front sway bar and the police bushings / brackets on the rear -

going around corners you could hear the door strikers rattling on the latch. The 4 door Fury HT (no B-pillar) was pretty flexy as well

There might be extreme cases with all-out auto-crossing, but for the street...no.

I had a friend that had a BMW Z3 M roadster - those had body flex and had a STB from the assembly line. The Z3 coupes were entirely different - more rigid body structure.
 

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Going to be installed Friday
674E4579-52DE-4C21-B042-0850DA232743.jpeg
1534B3E4-E7F3-4FF8-9A82-E5C961CC5A0D.jpeg
 
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The firmer setting is which hole ? The back hole .? Just want to make sure
 

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Thanks just making sure
 
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For sure , thanks for your help!
 
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