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Discussion Starter #1
Im hoping someone has experienced something similar and might be able to provide some insight into an issue I am having.

Quick background, I have a 2009 that I bought new a decade ago, I blew the engine a couple of years ago and life and everything has sort of gotten in the way, I finally finished installing a 426 stroker engine. I plan on doing more with the car, but for now since I wanted to do everything on my own, it is still naturally aspirated, nothing has changed other than the whole internals of the engine block. During the time the car sat, for a long time, I at one point between moving jobs/homes, I left the battery plugged in and it was completely drained once I started working on the car again. I was able to get the car going, it turns on fine now, not DTC, no "mechanical issues" so far.. I've only drove it a few times around the block.. But I am thinking I have some sort of electrical issue, and before I go on and change every harness and electrical gizmo on this, I wanted to see if anyone can point me in the right direction.

These are the issues that I am seeing, might be more, but so far this is what I have spotted:

-Engine stalls - When coming to a semi quick stop as I am making a turn, the engine stalls, No DTC codes no nothing. Several dashboard lights turn on, including the oil light. I checked oil levels both in engine and transmission and they seem to be in range.

-Key Fobs wont work - The key fobs actually work the first time I click unlock, the head lights turn on.. and thats it. They don't work again to lock or unlock. Just one out of the two work and only the first time after I've let the car sit around for a while and then try them again.

-Radio wont turn off - Whenever I turn on the car, turn it off, then open the driver side door, the radio remains on. What I do is put the key back in the slot, with the driver door open, turn the key to on position, turn it back off and then the radio shuts off.

-Trunk opening issues - The trunk will ONLY open if I have the car on or the key rotated to on position and I hit the trunk button inside the car. If the car is off, the button nor the key fob work to open the trunk.

I am hoping all of these issues are semi related to one problem and maybe someone has experienced there and can point me in the right direction. If not, I think my only option is to begin by checking any and all grounds, and then I guess just replacing wire harnesses. Note that the engine stalling on a turn isn't the first time it happens, it has happened in the past with the stock engine, but it only happened 2-3 times in the last decade, now it happens 2-3 times as I take it around the block.

Any Help would be greatly appreciated!!
 

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That's a weird one. Curious, what scan tool(s) have you used to verify that there are no DTCs? Does your car have the engine start pushbutton installed? If so, remove it and see if that changes anything. One thing those issues have in common is ignition switch position. Start small and try little things before you go just replacing wire harnesses or expensive modules.
 

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2015 Challenger RT/STP A8
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Have you tested your car battery??? Sounds like it had drained before of just sitting there, maybe it does not have sufficient charge to run all of the electronics on the car and could be causing your issues. Its worth a check before you move on to other items.
 

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What Trimec said regarding rodent damage.

Replace the battery. A lead/acid battery does not like to be fully discharged. While you may manage to charge it and the battery may recover 100% most often the case is the battery is going to be a problem.

Beyond starting the engine the battery is required to supply electrical power to energize the rotor in the alternator so the alternator can generate electricity to recharge the battery and supply the other electrical needs of the car.

If the battery is not able to do this the alternator will not supply enough power and the engine/car can manifest all sorts of odd mostly electrical gremlins.

Replace the battery. Be sure there are no signs of any rodent damage to the wiring. You have to manually run your hands along the wiring harnesses feeling for gnawing damage.

While you are there double check you have all battery cable connections nice and tight and this includes the other end of the cables. There are a lot of things that get disconnected when an engine is removed from a car and to state the obvious have to be connected after the engine is back in the car. It is easy to forget or get interrupted and leave something unconnected or loose.

With the engine running be sure the alternator puts out the right amount of electrical power.

Also, how fresh is the gasoline in the tank? You might consider removing the gasoline from the tank and adding fresh gasoline. Be sure you take into account the octane needs of the engine if you bumped the compression ratio.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
That's a weird one. Curious, what scan tool(s) have you used to verify that there are no DTCs? Does your car have the engine start pushbutton installed? If so, remove it and see if that changes anything. One thing those issues have in common is ignition switch position. Start small and try little things before you go just replacing wire harnesses or expensive modules.
I have an Innova 3140 rs

I does have a pushbutton installed but I guess I forgot to mention that it doesn't work either. The only way to turn on the car is to pop out the push button and stick the key in the slot.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Have you tested your car battery??? Sounds like it had drained before of just sitting there, maybe it does not have sufficient charge to run all of the electronics on the car and could be causing your issues. Its worth a check before you move on to other items.
I had to replace the car battery altogether. Its a new battery because the old one drained to a point it was unrecoverable.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
What Trimec said regarding rodent damage.

Replace the battery. A lead/acid battery does not like to be fully discharged. While you may manage to charge it and the battery may recover 100% most often the case is the battery is going to be a problem.

Beyond starting the engine the battery is required to supply electrical power to energize the rotor in the alternator so the alternator can generate electricity to recharge the battery and supply the other electrical needs of the car.

If the battery is not able to do this the alternator will not supply enough power and the engine/car can manifest all sorts of odd mostly electrical gremlins.

Replace the battery. Be sure there are no signs of any rodent damage to the wiring. You have to manually run your hands along the wiring harnesses feeling for gnawing damage.

While you are there double check you have all battery cable connections nice and tight and this includes the other end of the cables. There are a lot of things that get disconnected when an engine is removed from a car and to state the obvious have to be connected after the engine is back in the car. It is easy to forget or get interrupted and leave something unconnected or loose.

With the engine running be sure the alternator puts out the right amount of electrical power.

Also, how fresh is the gasoline in the tank? You might consider removing the gasoline from the tank and adding fresh gasoline. Be sure you take into account the octane needs of the engine if you bumped the compression ratio.
Thanks for the feedback Rockster. I do have a new battery and added new fuel. I will check all wiring harness for any roden damage. It did sit for a long time and I haven't seen any roden activity in my home, but it doesn't mean it doesn't exist.

Thanks again
 

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2017 T/A 5.7 A8 front and rear strut braces frame connectors
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Check your ground cable

Make sure you have a good clean ground from the battery to the frame
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Quick Update..

I think the electrical issues have been resolved. My neighbor brought me what he calls "magic stuff", dielectric grease. I put it on every single connection that I could find, including fuses and ground. The "magic stuff" worked. The electrical problems seemed to have gone away. Key Fobs working, radio, trunk, etc. Unfortunately, my engine stalling still remains.

The downside is that it seems to happen without any DTC or any obvious clue that I can troubleshoot. What I did notice is that it happens once the engine get up to temperature. As I come to a fast stop, the engine just shuts down and the oil light on the dashboard lights up. No Check engine light and No DTC codes. Once the car shuts down and I come to a complete stop, I simply turn the key off and turn the car on again and it gets going like nothing ever happened. I checked the oil on the engine and it seems to have sufficient oil, doesn't look low or high, its right at the full line on the dip stick. I checked my transmission oil and that seems to be in range.

The issue didn't occur when the car was cold. It happened once it got up to temperature. Anyways, I'll keep scratching my head for a bit and see where this gets me :) ..
 

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To my knowledge, dielectric grease is an electrical insulator (as opposed to conductor). So, wherever you added the dielectric grease, there was likely a loose connection that was inadvertently reconnected by jostling it. So if it happens again, at least you can backtrack through all your dielectric grease places and find the janky connection.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
So quick updated on this issue.. The electrical issues were resolved when I applied the dielectric grease. As 1esotericguy mentioned above, the grease is non conductive so it must have simply been a bad connection somewhere in the mix that resolved itself once i took it all apart and reconnected everything..

The car stalling issue as I was quickly desecrating or coming into a sharp turn with some speed behind me, that took me a little longer to troubleshoot, but I think I found the issue.. After reading a lot of threads with people having similar issues as mine in the early challengers, I found that my issue came from the coils. I tried a bunch of different things, from uploading a performance tune, installing CAI, fuel injectors, fuel filter, re-draining fuel, and changing both engine and transmission oil.. At the end of the day almost by accident, i found it to be a loose coil. The damn thing would rattle and somehow it would stall the car as I was coming to a quick stop or doing a turn without coming to a complete stop, and the computer wouldn't show any damn DTC codes or anything to point me in any direction to troubleshoot.

I know I had torqued the coils at one point to manufacturer spec, but im guessing some dirty threads could have caused issues in correctly torquing the coils.. Anyways.. I know lots of these issues were reported before with a lot of people scratching their heads as to why the cause.. I dont know if this is the issue that everyone was having or might have at one point.. But I hope it helps someone..

Now that my car is finally running normal and I can take it out to the street after more than two years since staring my 6.1L to a 426 upgrade.. The next hurdle will be the damn California SMOG.. lucky me.. Wish me luck!
 
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