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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
2014 RT Shaker 5.7 140,000 miles

Never seen this one..
p3497 - cylinder deactivation system
Possible Components - multiple displacement solenoid

weird…dealer passed inspection with light on yesterday. Light been on for a few months

Any ideas?
 

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That's an issue with bank 2 of the MDS system. Bank 2 is the bank that does not include cylinder 1, the MDS solenoid is probably bad and needs to be replaced.
 

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2020 Dodge Challenger Hellraisin Scat Pack
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2014 RT Shaker 5.7 140,000 miles

Never seen this one..
p3497 - cylinder deactivation system
Possible Components - multiple displacement solenoid

weird…dealer passed inspection with light on yesterday. Light been on for a few months

Any ideas?
Not common but not unknown either.

Has several possible problems. Low oil level, oil past its change by miles, or the wrong oil. And of course the solenoid could be bad. Or the portion of the PCM that controls the solenoid is not working or the wiring from the PCM to the solenoid is bad.

One can use a volt meter to see if the PCM is actually commanding the solenoid to activate. To do this while the engien is idling and the vehicle is stationary would require a sophisticated scan tool which allows this MDS to be activated. 'course, other requirements will have to be met. Proper oil temperature for one. And idle oil pressure may not be high enough, too.

If the signal is detected at the solenoid connector then the PCM is working and the wiring is good.

Or starting at the solenoid it may be possible to with the solenoid disconnected from the wiring harness supply 12V shop voltage to the solenoid to see if it makes a sound like it is working. But one has to know what he is doing. I'd not just blindly trigger the solenoid even if the engine was off. This is where a tech has the advantage over the DIYer. He knows what steps he can do to confirm the root cause of the problem.

If the oil could be the cause then an oil change with the proper oil might be the 1st step.

Absent better info on how to trouble shoot this if the solenoid is not too expensive (yeah, right...) or too much trouble to get to (yeah right, again) you could throw a new solenoid in.

Or have the car in and have a professional tech make the diagnosis.
 

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A stored OBD-II code P3497 means that the powertrain control module (PCM) has detected an abnormality in your 5.7's cylinder deactivation system (MDS) for engine bank 2. Bank two denotes the bank of the engine which doesn't contain the #1 cylinder. The variable valve timing solenoids are utilized to close the intake and exhaust valves for the cylinders that are deactivated.

Aside from the fact that cylinder deactivation problems may reduce fuel efficiency, the possible causes may lead to catastrophic engine failure. The P3497 should be rectified as soon as possible.

Read more at: P3497 Cylinder Deactivation System Bank 2
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
“…Or have the car in and have a professional tech make the diagnosis….”
That’s the part that scares me…hard to find anyone that knows what they are doing these days.
Thanks for the info..
By the way…got oil change at dealer with the inspection…light still on…
Saw a video on replacing these…they always break when trying to get out…doesn’t sound real easy to me..but of course I have a hard time changing light bulb…
Stupid question…if it was “because needed oil change”…would/should light go off after oil change?..or does it manually need to be reset/turned off?
 

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“…Or have the car in and have a professional tech make the diagnosis….”
That’s the part that scares me…hard to find anyone that knows what they are doing these days.
Thanks for the info..
By the way…got oil change at dealer with the inspection…light still on…
Saw a video on replacing these…they always break when trying to get out…doesn’t sound real easy to me..but of course I have a hard time changing light bulb…
Stupid question…if it was “because needed oil change”…would/should light go off after oil change?..or does it manually need to be reset/turned off?
The tech who changed your oil should have manually reset the oil reminder. You can do it yourself, by following the simple steps contained in the following video.

.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
The tech who changed your oil should have manually reset the oil reminder. You can do it yourself, by following the simple steps contained in the following video.

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Don’t think it’s a oil change light…I was just thinking that maybe to code was thrown because of long interval between change….usually I go 5,000…this time 7000
 

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Don’t think it’s a oil change light…I was just thinking that maybe to code was thrown because of long interval between change….usually I go 5,000…this time 7000
It's not the oil change.... it's the solenoid
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Yep…so it looks like I need “one”? of the 4 solenoids replaced. At 100,000 miles, I took it to a shop and had them tighten my intake manifold bolts…I guess I mite as well have them do this now when they replace the solenoid(s)…I am sure they are loose by now (140,000)…
I think I’ve spent about 10 times on maintenance on this car vs my previous ride…97 Ford F-150…it had 250,000 when the speedometer went out..
 

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“…Or have the car in and have a professional tech make the diagnosis….”
That’s the part that scares me…hard to find anyone that knows what they are doing these days.
Thanks for the info..
By the way…got oil change at dealer with the inspection…light still on…
Saw a video on replacing these…they always break when trying to get out…doesn’t sound real easy to me..but of course I have a hard time changing light bulb…
Stupid question…if it was “because needed oil change”…would/should light go off after oil change?..or does it manually need to be reset/turned off?
If by "light still on" you are referring to the CEL, if the error arose from the oil the CEL should go off but maybe not right away after an oil change. For some errors if the error condition is not present at engine start the CEL is turned off. For other errors the engine controller needs several warm up cycles with the error absent before it extinguishes the CEL. I would hazard a guess an error related to the MDS would require several warm up cycles with the error absent before the PCM would erase the code and extinguish the CEL.

With a proper OBD2 scan tool you can clear the error which should extinguish the CEL. If you restart the engine and the CEL comes on that is because the PCM detected the error at engine start. Or the CEL may come on after the engine (and solenoid) get up to temperature.

I mentioned the oil change because that has in some cases resulted in an error related to the MDS system.

But I agree with others that is more likely the solenoid.

No Dodge experience but a previous car developed a problem with the variable (intake) cam timing solenoid/actuator. I had no qualms about taking the car to my local dealer. 'course, I had had this car and another car serviced there, and some other issues addressed, and as a result of my experience I had 100% confidence the tech was quite capable of a proper repair. He was. He replaced both the solenoid and the actuator. This was an out of warranty repair and cost around $3K. But I put close to 100K miles on the engine after the repair with no problems arising from the repair.

Might mention in this case there was no way to determine if the solenoid or actuator was bad. So the factory called for both items to be replaced. As it turned out the solenoid failed but did so in such a way it "took" out the actuator.

As was the case with the above car and its problem, so too is it with your car. It is unlikely this work would be turned over to be done by anyone but a senior and experienced tech. The dealer warranties the parts and labor. Should a problem develop you have the warranty to fall back upon.

I'm no expert on MDS issues but reading other posts it appears this problem is not a benign one and if not addressed promptly can result in more serious problems maybe even take out the engine.

Whatever you decide to do you better decide ASAP.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Hell…I can’t even find the part number.
I’m getting things pop up $50, $60, $100…and 4 for $90…
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Thanks…I see it. $78….now I got to figure out if I can replace it myself (with a little help)…or take car to shop and pay them $500-600 to do it…
 

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Thanks…I see it. $78….now I got to figure out if I can replace it myself (with a little help)…or take car to shop and pay them $500-600 to do it…
You can find the FSM here to see how it is done but should just have to remove the intake to gain access to the solenoid.

BTW if you do order from SW use the CHA1 discount code.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Thanks everyone for all the great info…one more question. There are 4 of them….how do I know which one is bad?.
 

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Thanks everyone for all the great info…one more question. There are 4 of them….how do I know which one is bad?.
Have you looked on the chilton site by cutting and pasting the code in the search box? It can be either cyl 4 or 6...it gives a way to diagnose. If you have a licensed version of alfaobd you can cycle each solenoid individually.
Rectangle Font Parallel Screenshot Number
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Search found no results on CHilton
 

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Check again.

P3497-Cylinder Deactivation System - Bank 2
P3497-CYLINDER DEACTIVATION SYSTEM - BANK 2

Theory of Operation

When all criteria has been met, power is supplied to each MDS Solenoid when the engine is making a transition from 8 cylinder mode to 4 cylinder mode. By actuating the solenoid, oil pressure is raised to the pair of lifters that coincide with each particular solenoid. The oil pressure pushes in the locking pins that allows the lifter to collapse, decoupling the valves and camshaft.

When Monitored and Set Conditions

When Monitored:


This diagnostic runs continuously when the following conditions are met:

  • Transition from 4 to 8 cylinder mode.
Set Conditions:

  • O2 sensor readings on Bank 2 side indicate a lean condition while in 4 cylinder mode.


Default Actions:

  • MIL is illuminated on the second consecutive trip that the diagnostic fails.
  • The MIL will be turned off on the third consecutive trip that the diagnostic passes.
Possible Causes
INSUFFICIENT OIL PRESSURE ACTING ON THE LIFTER LOCKING PINS
OIL PASSAGES RESTRICTED
LIFTER
MDS SOLENOID
Always perform the PRE-DIAGNOSTIC TROUBLESHOOTING PROCEDURE before proceeding. (Refer to DTC-Based Diagnostics/MODULE, Powertrain Control (PCM) - Standard Procedure)(Refer To List 1).

Diagnostic Test

CHECK FOR AN ACTIVE DTC


Turn the ignition on.

With a scan tool, read DTCs.

Is the DTC active at this time?

Yes


No

Refer To List:
CHECK FOR OTHER DTCS


Refer to the recorded DTCs.

Are there any Deactivation or Oil Pressure DTCs active or pending?

Yes


No

Refer To List:
CHECK THE MDS SOLENOID 4 OPERATION USING THE SCAN TOOL ACTUATOR




NOTE
The DTC must not be active for the actuator test to operate properly, clear all DTC before continuing.


Turn the ignition off.

Remove the Intake Manifold per Service Information.

Turn the ignition on.

With the scan tool actuate the MDS Solenoid 4.

Can you feel and hear the Solenoid Actuating?

Yes


No

Refer To List:
CHECK THE MDS SOLENOID 6 OPERATION USING THE SCAN TOOL ACTUATOR




NOTE
The DTC must not be active for the actuator test to operate properly, clear all DTC before continuing.


With the scan tool actuate the MDS Solenoid 6.

Can you feel and hear the Solenoid Actuating?

Yes


No

Refer To List:
CHECK FOR RESTRICTED OIL PASSAGES


Turn the ignition off.

Remove both Solenoids on Bank 2 of the engine block.

Remove the Bank 2 Cylinder Head per Service Information.

Remove the each pair of lifters for Cylinders 4 and 6.

Inspect the oil passages to the Solenoids and from the Solenoids to the lifters.

Are the passages blocked?

Yes


No

List 1

List 2

 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Yeah…read all that. Also read that low oil pressure can throw the code…I think I can check oil pressure on the steering column controls…what should the oil pressure be?
 

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Yeah…read all that. Also read that low oil pressure can throw the code…I think I can check oil pressure on the steering column controls…what should the oil pressure be?
So if you did read it you would have seen either solenoid 4 or 6 would be the culprit and assuming oil pressure is good then you would have to check them for debris and if they are clicking when activated. At highway speeds oil pressure should be +50psi, but why would only 1 bank be triggered and not both if that were the case? If you reset the code does it come back?
 
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