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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hopefully, the engine is coming out tomorrow for a thorough investigation of the knocking noise and why there is swarf in the oil. At the moment, its sat out there with the two lower bolts from bellhousing to sump/oil pan and engine mounts loosened. Inlet manifold removed, everything I can see disconnected (those M10 studs down the back on the top of the bell housing were not fun!). Radiator and fan removed.

My Haynes manual suggests I can simply pull the engine forward clear of the transmission and then up and out.

However, I've noticed a few thread on here and elsewhere suggesting the transmission needs to come out first - is this true?

Not knowing how thick/deep the clutch assembly is, or how long the gearbox input shaft is, there looks to be a reasonable amount of room in-front of the engine to allow it to clear the bellhousing?
 

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Honestly, the easiest way to do it is to unbolt the front cradle, front suspension and lift the car off of the cradle, engine & transmission together but only if you have a lift.
 

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2016 Challenger R/T Plus Shaker
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I always pull the engine from the top on Challengers and Chargers. If you are careful with moving it forward, it will come out ok. I would remove the crank damper and water pump, this gains several inches more clearance that would help offset the depth of the clutch assembly. It helps with access to the bellhousing bolts if you remove the wipers, cowl panel, and the brace that the cowl panel covers. If you haven't already removed the four bolts that go through the bellhousing into the block, note that those bolts are not metric threads. These are the only non metric bolts I have found on the modern Hemi engines, presumably left over from the Gen I Hemi bellhousing pattern and bolt sizes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Unfortunately, it's got to come out on the driveway - my UK double car sized garage is not quite long enough to take a Challenger and still be able to work on it, or it might be on my scissor lift. So with the front on wheel ramps and with an engine hoist . . .

Yep, the cowl panel, brace, wipers etc are out (and not impressed with the rust on the brace where the plastic cowl panel has rubbed the finish off on a 2016, 27000 mile car (nor where the coolant expansion tank has rubbed the paint to bare metal under it) and I still ended up sat on the engine undoing upper the studs at the back !

I was considering removing the water pump etc - I'll go for it now. Thanks for the help.

Now to see if I can get the bonnet/hood either high enough, or off the car single-handedly . . . without damage.
 

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2016 Challenger R/T Plus Shaker
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Ok, for the hood (bonnet), I leave it attached to the hinges. I disconnect the hood struts (hood shocks) at one end and carefully tilt the hood back to a nearly upright position. I tie it back with a cord, being careful not to scratch anything. If you decide to remove it, it is not heavy (it is aluminum, so very lightweight), but it is awkward for one person to handle.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
That's exactly how I did it although I used plastic ties to hold the strut close to the hinge mechanism so the end of the strut was against the inner fender top and couldn't slip.
You were dead right on the water pump etc - just enough room to make it out. With the insertion of couple of "skid plates" down the sides, the exhaust manifolds squeezed past the air-con pipework on one side and the brake pipes on the other side without any damage.

My only real issue were the engine mounts - I decided the easiest way was to remove the two long sideways studs each side 0 they hold the little heat shields too. Except I forgot about the front passenger side one - the one that is too long to come out in-situ as the other three do - so when I pulled the ending forwards, it was still sitting in the recess and jammed - even with the engine pushed hard over to the drivers sides, it wouldn't come out - had to loosen the center nut to the mounting block so it moved just enough. I didn't think there was enough room to get whole mount up past the pipework if I un-did them from the front frame. Going to be interesting when I come to reinstall.

Tomorrow I hopefully pull it apart and find out what the issue is.

I was pleased to find my attempt at cleaning and re-lubing the input shaft splines for the clutch disc which I did through the gap left when I pulled the transmission back slightly a year or so ago had worked better than I thought at the time - a nice even thin smear of grease on them. Made a massive different to the shift and the enjoyment of the car at the time.
 

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2015 SRT, 6 Speed, Sublime Green
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It would be interesting to include pics as you go. Would make a great reference post.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Have to admit I never think of taking pictures I'm afraid - a job needing doing, limited time, oily fingers, trying to beat the weather . . . its 1pm here right now, and I've still not made it out to make a start on pulling it apart.

I'll attempt to remember to take some of the internal issues though.
 

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Thanks. I know I’d like to see what you are describing. If it can happen, then great. If not, no sweat. Heck, it would be novel to see a muscle car engine removal across the pond.
 

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2018 Scat Pack SHAKER in Plum Crazy- GONE :-(
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Great pic from Summit Racing April 1st email.
1018950
 
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