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Hi I have a 2010 challenger v6 SE. I want to buy an exhaust that are on the stock srt8s' and put it on mine. Im not sure if this will work, will the guy that installs it need to do extra mods, welding, bolting??

Thanks
 

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I think your best bet is to go to a local muffler shop, and have them do custom true duels with 2.25 pipe. Have them design you an "X" pipe, and hang the mufflers right under the seats, you can buy a heat shield for the left side, but its really not needed. I did this, used AP Mufflers, and aluminized 2.25 pipe, with the custom X pipe, and stainless 4" tips cost $550.00 installed. I also replaced the rear valance, which was another $86.00. The performance difference was noticeable, and the sound is great. This method I feel is the best way to go, and believe me, i have had Magnaflow single exhaust, and the difference is like night and day. All the other "Duel Exhaust Kits" are with a "Y" pipe, which is not true duels, or as in the case of the Flowmaster exhaust, this is true Duel, but is very expensive, and the end result will be the same. Good Luck with what ever you do, and most importantly have fun!



 

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I almost went the route of SRT8 exhaust on my SE. After doing some reading, talking to people, etc. I decided against it. I had found system for $150 so it was hard to pass up. In the end, the SRT8 exhaust has 3 inch pipe whereas our SE's have 2.25 coming off the cats. Many have done it and in talking to several people, most of them experienced a loss of low end torque. I had one person actually take the SRT8 system off his SE because it was so bad.

Here is the system I just put on my SE last weekend.

YouTube - 2010 Dodge Challenger 3.5L V6 Dual Flowmaster Super 44 Exhaust

I've got some drone at certain RPM's so you might want to put some glasspacks or resonators at the end before the tips. But I love the exterior sound. Already have got a lot of good comments on the sound. I should note that I've also seen a very noticeable gain in performance especially in the lower end.
 

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IMO due to the straight through design a resonator or glasspack will do NOTHING to reduce drone, which is a long wave and passes through any "straight through" design. I'd stick with what you have. now if you want to go with twin stock R/T rear mufflers or at least what looks like a chambered muffler, that should take all drone away and most of the performance sound too.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Ok thanks for the info.. so the srt one wont work without doing a lot of mods... Some guy told me that he put the RT exhaust on his and put glass packs with it and it worked.. Should i just do that???... Im trying to find an rt exhaust on here but there is really nothing...
 

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post a thread in the "regional" section that you live in.
Some guys will give stock systems away (especially if taking up valuable garage real estate) or for very little $$$.

True duals most peeps complained of loss of low end torque
Dual look (one in/two out muffler) is how lots have gone with great success
 

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post a thread in the "regional" section that you live in.
Some guys will give stock systems away (especially if taking up valuable garage real estate) or for very little $$$.

True duals most peeps complained of loss of low end torque
Dual look (one in/two out muffler) is how lots have gone with great success
I actually felt more low end response, when I went from "Y" to "X" pipe.
 

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thats good news :bigthumb:
Thanks! I was watching a show on speed TV called Gearz, and they did this segment on Heartthrob Exhaust This is a company based in MN, and there products are supposed to be second to none. According to this segment i was watching, this company has been in business for 35 years now, owns there own DYNO, and custom builds exhaust and DYNO tests every design they sell. My point is, :browsmiley: they DYNO tested a SRT Challenger, and picked up 44HP on the DYNO, with an "H" pipe put into place over the stock exhaust setup. This is amazing, and was backed up with 3 runs, (Download their PDF catalog shows 3rd DYNO Run) so it cant be a fluke. I was wondering what an "H" pipe design might do for a SE? The Standard "Y" design IMO is flawed, and should be changed for max performance, as long as you stay within the 2.25 pipe diameter.
 
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