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2015 Scat Pack Shaker
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Discussion Starter #1
Hi,
I have a question regarding my recent exhaust mod on my 2015 Scat Pack Shaker (with Auto trans). I installed a Borla Catback exhaust (p/n 140640). This Borla exhaust has the set up for the re-attachment of the factory exhaust actuators. I followed all the Borla install instructions for re-attaching the actuators. No CEL on start up or the test drive but my question is: How do I know if I installed the springs correctly in the actuators or if the flap is stuck in the open or closed position ? I am assuming if the flap is stuck open or closed due to improper install of the spring then it would trigger a CEL ?

Any info would be greatly appreciated as I have no experience working with exhaust actuators... Thanks !!!
 

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If something’s stuck, you’ll know after a couple starts. Right now I’m dealing with an on and off CEL due to the active exhaust. I’m waiting on new pipes from them but they are dragging their feet and it’s getting to the point that I’m gonna put the stock exhaust back on and be done with it.
 

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2015 Scat Pack Shaker
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Discussion Starter #3
That is not encouraging to hear - I only have about 25 miles on the new exhaust install so I will see if the CEL comes on after a few more starts and more miles. Thank you for the response - much appreciated. I am hanging onto my factory exhaust system just in case...
 

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Rather than repeat my story, I’ll link my post about it here. The problem I’m having now didn’t manifest until 6 months later after it was installed. The initial problem I had when it was installed was because the springs were installed wrong and the light came on almost immediately. So I’d say by now, you should be good.

http://www.challengertalk.com/forums/f449/active-exhaust-issue-630722/
 

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2015 Scat Pack Shaker
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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for the link to your previous post - the CEL issue is very frustrating for sure. I see that you have the MDS Valve Simulators. My set up is the Borla exhaust that includes the MDS valves. Would getting an exhaust shop to cut out your old factory MDS Valves and welding them into your Borla exhaust be a possible solution ?

I will keep researching this issue and post any updates. I did find some info that helped me better understand the active exhaust operation and it shows the 4 possible trouble codes involving active exhaust valves. This info may not solve your CEL issue but I have included the link below for reference:

Active Exhaust- Theory of operation from the factory.
 

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If the cause of the issue is the cylinder that the spring connects to, which is what Borla thinks it is, the flaps wouldn't do anything I don't think. Borla said that if that cylinder gets stuck or restricted in any way, it will set the light off. They said there has been multiple redesigns of the simulator area so we'll see. The problem right now is that I have an inspection due next month and I've been waiting on new pipes for weeks now. If I don't get them, I'm gonna have to put my old exhaust back on to see if that fixes the issue and if it does, I'm probably gonna get rid of the Borla exhaust because I'm tired of dealing with it.

My only other option besides the stock exhaust, would be tuning. I believe there are a couple options like HP Tuners, that you can completely disable the active exhaust and keep the flaps open all the time and permanently stop any codes from coming up. I am a little leery going down that road though as the car is barely a year old and I really don't want to start messing with that stuff.
 

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2015 Scat Pack Shaker
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Discussion Starter #7
I'm assuming the inspection you are talking about is an emission's test - that is a problem when you have a CEL for sure. Putting the stock exhaust back on may be your best bet to avoid your state not passing your brand new car. You could always do a mid muffler delete on the stock exhaust to get a better sound until a better aftermarket exhaust design comes on the market.
 

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2019 Dodge Challenger R/T 5.7 Black Top White Knuckle, Borla ATAK, JLT v3.0 catch can, Mopar CAI
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This guys question was never answered lol...I have the same question...I also want to know how to tell if spring was installed right. I got a Borla catback installed last week and can’t really tell the difference in sound with sport mode on or off. It was night and day with the stock muffler and muffler delete. So I unhooked the actuator on the passenger side and reversed the spring and moved the valve and reinstalled. I haven’t had any check engine light and I’ve driven it for a few days each now both ways..spring and valve one way and the other. But I did notice a rattle at cold start up only. but idk if that had to do with the actuator or a heat shield? So I just re-reversed it back again to the way the muffler shop had it to see if it’ll fix the rattle in the morning when I start it up again. How do I know for sure if the springs are installed in the correct position? On the Borla the passenger side actuator goes on the RIGHT passenger side of the pipe...on stock passenger side actuator it goes on the LEFT driver side of the pipe. So I’m confused and the instruction booklet only shows pictures of the drivers side...on an outdated bracket. My model is 140714
 
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