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2016 R/T Scat Pack
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I suggest everyone has their water pump checked. The noise is metallic and tends to bounce around.

Mine started failing at about 15k miles.

And yes, it sounded like an exhaust or shield rattle and was all over the car, and I could hear it coming from the dash from the inside under ~2k RPM.
 

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With only 7300 miles on my 2019 Challenger R/T, I also just started hearing a loud rattling clearly from the resonator area on the right side. My check engine light came on as well, so tomorrow it’s headed to the dealership. I admit that I drive it aggressively but I didn’t expect problems this soon.
 

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Cliff1971, I had the same issue with my 2018 R/T. First thought was the actuator valves, but found out it was bad baffles in the mufflers. Had the system replaced months ago and have never had an issue since. As a matter of fact, the new exhaust sounds awesome! Glad I had it done. Warranty item as well.
 

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Tonyl, I can only hope. Currently sounds like the cars falling apart driving down the road. It happened going to work a few days ago and it’s quite embarrassing driving thru town. The dealership is so backed up that they say they will have it for 2 weeks.
 

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Do you only hear the noise at lower rpm's? Does it make the sound when you are in Sport Mode? Mine was only when I was sort of cruising. If I accelerated hard I never heard it. I never heard it on idle either. Two weeks??? That is ridiculous!!! It's an easy fix if your problem is the same as mine. I could never let them have my car for 2 weeks.
 

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It rattles under mild acceleration in sport mode as well also during start up and while the engine warms up. I swear I thought I seen something shoot out of the exhaust yesterday while commuting at about 30 mph as well. This thing has me unnerved right now and the dealership isn’t helping much.
 

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Sounds like the same problem I had, but can't guarantee. I feel your pain! Hope you get this resolved soon...I know it made me crazy!!!
 

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It rattles under mild acceleration in sport mode as well also during start up and while the engine warms up. I swear I thought I seen something shoot out of the exhaust yesterday while commuting at about 30 mph as well. This thing has me unnerved right now and the dealership isn’t helping much.
Hi Cliff1971, I am sorry to hear that you have these concerns with your Challenger. If you are in need of additional support while in service, please let us know. We can certainly have a case escalated for additional assistance while in service.
Rob
DodgeCares
 

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So after going to the dealership they said it was damaged by something hitting the active x actuator (it was shattered into 2 pieces). They then told me the actuators can’t just be replaced, the whole exhaust system has to be replaced at a grand total of 3500.00. Looking for options before spending this much.
 

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If the damage to the actuator is that bad, it could be that the mounting plate might be bent as well. But if that was the case your PCM should have thrown a code. Sounds like BS to me.
 

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So after going to the dealership they said it was damaged by something hitting the active x actuator (it was shattered into 2 pieces). They then told me the actuators can’t just be replaced, the whole exhaust system has to be replaced at a grand total of 3500.00. Looking for options before spending this much.
Did you have a check engine indication? If the actuators aren't working that light should come on. I would have a reliable muffler shop or speed shop give you an opinion and estimate.
 

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Yes the code was thrown. The car runs nothing like it did and sounds like crap now.

I’m considering deleting it all from the baffles back possibly even new mufflers.Worried it might void my warranty though (like it’s doing me any good now anyways)
 

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Check with someone you trust. Changing out the exhaust shouldn't affect the warranty unless the damage could be directly tied to the mods.
 

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So if I do this how do I get the CE light to go off? Is there a cancellation module that it can be plugged into? Or is there a way of bypassing it? That light drives me nuts.
 

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Oh and I called a different dealership and inquired about just the actuator and yep it’s available for 350.00 roughly. When I confronted the district manager of the dealership he told me they didn’t recommend the part because the housing was damaged as well. He said “With a little elbow grease while it’s on the lift we might be able to straighten it out but that could take hours of labor” so that’s their reasoning for not offering that option. He was being “COST EFFECTIVE”. At this point I’m so frustrated that I’m ready to hack it behind the mufflers and put turn downs on it
 

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So if I do this how do I get the CE light to go off? Is there a cancellation module that it can be plugged into? Or is there a way of bypassing it? That light drives me nuts.
There are devices out there that will bypass the actuator valve, but you will have to use google to find them. I still think your best bet is to go to a reputable exhaust or speed shop and get their opinion. I have worked on the active exhaust system and can tell you they are tricky. Dodge has implemented a very complex detection system into them so the CEL will continue to be a source of frustration if you don't get professional help with it. I can't understand the fix they are recommending to you, but I can't see the problem either. Save your sanity and get it checked by someone.
 

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It’s funny that dodge can put a very complex detection system to make it hard to bypass but not a very durable protection system to keep it from getting broken. This why I say that Dodge owners beware, they’re setting you up for unnecessary expenses.
 

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OP if i was in your shoes, i would go to an exhaust shop, have then chop the section of pipe with the actuators snd just rub regular piping in there.

Although im not sure if that would trigger a light


But you would be in loud mode all the time
 

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Agreed with above plus aev simulators ( cost $150-$200)

A Guy
 
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