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To be honest if the $15K number is what we are working from. I can guarantee that I can and am Building My Base Model R/T to exceed the performance and have nearly all of the capabilities of a Scat Pack or Hellcat. I will concede that my UConnect won’t be on par, but I’m a drag racer and I don’t want or need that feature. Including the cost of my Car, all of the past upgrades and current build I’m no where near what a used Hellcat costs in my area, or a decent SP M6 car. I’d also argue depending on the car’s use case that the Getrag diff is a better diff than the ZF. I know the ZF is theoretically stronger but it has limited gear options at this time making it a challenge for those of us that race our cars often. If you aren’t a racer than none of this matters and then the question is why spend money making it faster, especially with local laws and driving conditions these days.


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The Pork Wagon (‘14 Cop Charger)
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To be honest if the $15K number is what we are working from. I can guarantee that I can and am Building My Base Model R/T to exceed the performance and have nearly all of the capabilities of a Scat Pack or Hellcat. I will concede that my UConnect won’t be on par, but I’m a drag racer and I don’t want or need that feature. Including the cost of my Car, all of the past upgrades and current build I’m no where near what a used Hellcat costs in my area, or a decent SP M6 car. I’d also argue depending on the car’s use case that the Getrag diff is a better diff than the ZF. I know the ZF is theoretically stronger but it has limited gear options at this time making it a challenge for those of us that race our cars often. If you aren’t a racer than none of this matters and then the question is why spend money making it faster, especially with local laws and driving conditions these days.


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Your comment about accepting a subpar audio system has me worried...say it ain’t so!!

If that’s the case, it totally deflates the mental picture I had of you rolling up to the burn box with Wagner’s Ride of the Valkyries blasting at 150 dBs so the crowd knows who’s about to stage.

 

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I didn’t say it would stay sub par, I’m just more concerned about HP/Torque than audio these days. Side note. That is my favorite part of that movie. (“Can you surf, look at the swells how they break it’s beautiful.”)I’ve accepted the fact that my young man days are far behind me. With that said I look forward to the day when our patches cross so we can go for a cruise when I finish this thing.


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The Pork Wagon (‘14 Cop Charger)
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I didn’t say it would stay sub par, I’m just more concerned about HP/Torque than audio these days. Side note. That is my favorite part of that movie. (“Can you surf, look at the swells how they break it’s beautiful.”)I’ve accepted the fact that my young man days are far behind me. With that said I look forward to the day when our patches cross so we can go for a cruise when I finish this thing.


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“CHARLIE DON’T SURF!!”

A-Hahahahahahaha!! Love that part...
 
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I know and I agree I should have said a bit more, but, he did say "Best" If you upgrade to a same year Scat Pack, odds are it will be cheaper than modifying a 5.7, and you get more than just extra power. You get better brakes, rear end, suspension. Better re-sale over a modified car.
I suggested that, because that is what I did. I had a 2015 Charger R/T (R&T) and was seriously considering adding a Edelbrock E-Force system ($7,500ish?). For about double what that would have cost, I upgraded to a 2018 Challenger Scat Pack SHAKER with about $5000 more equipment (massive brakes, adaptive cruise...) (On top of the Scat Pack itself!) than my 2015 Charger, plus newer uConnect with Android Auto. Plus I got a car with about ½ the miles.
So, for $15K or so, I got
3 years newer
16K less miles
115 more HP
95 more torques
Better rear end
Much better brakes (I got 6 piston Brembos)
Adaptive cruise
SHAKER
newer uConnect
And I will probably carry a much better resale value for many years, so the net increase is even less.
BUT, if replacing the car is not an option, I would suggest "go big or go home" don't waste money on something that will get you 15hp or so, you will never notice, and will not be satisfied. I'd go for something like my original plan, Edelbrock E-Force or something like that. You don't have to rip too much apart, and keep it mild, and get close to Hellcat Black Key power.
I dont see how its 15k. If you bought an r/t it cost you more then that, then you traded it in on a higher priced car. So 15k might be the difference between the two but some of us can build a car for under the 15k difference you spent. Im at 8k and have brembos, 8" u connect and 25k miles. Dak's car will have way more power then the scat and hes playing under the $$ also im sure. Not everyone has to run out and pay someone or buy and be happy with what the factory has to offer.
 

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Discussion Starter #27
Agreed! Obviously, the poster already knows that he can just buy another car - he doesn't need others to tell him that. :)

There may be specific reasons why he doesn't want to do that. "Buy a different car" doesn't answer the question at hand - at all.
Thanks someone with sense
 

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I dont see how its 15k. If you bought an r/t it cost you more then that, then you traded it in on a higher priced car. So 15k might be the difference between the two but some of us can build a car for under the 15k difference you spent. Im at 8k and have brembos, 8" u connect and 25k miles. Dak's car will have way more power then the scat and hes playing under the $$ also im sure. Not everyone has to run out and pay someone or buy and be happy with what the factory has to offer.
Doesn't matter what I started with, I went from 2015 5.7 to a 2018 6.4 with all the goodies, plus SHAKER, plus Dynamics, Plus Adaptive Cruise, and at the time 1 year old, not 3 years old (inservice time) with 15K less miles. And every part is warranted/tested. If I put $12K into my Charger I would have had more power, and same brakes, but it would still be 3 years older, and something like 17K miles more used, and hard to sell/trade for anything approaching what I spent on it over what it was stock.
I can't put a value on doing modifications to your car so you get to keep that one that you want, and make it better, but for the money in the long run with everything like warranty, resale, I stand by, if they make a better car, buy that one.
And both my Charger, and my current Challenger were/are very unique, actually both were 1 of 1 cars, and I loved them both. At times I still wish I kept the Charger and went with an E-Force, it would have been a hoot, and very unique. But that all goes away when I get in the Challenger.
So, if you really, really want to keep the one you got, go for supercharger, easiest way to a real increase compared to 10 other things totaling close to the same money. You can even get a warranty with one. And easiest to remove and return to stock if you want to move on later.
 

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Doesn't matter what I started with, I went from 2015 5.7 to a 2018 6.4 with all the goodies, plus SHAKER, plus Dynamics, Plus Adaptive Cruise, and at the time 1 year old, not 3 years old (inservice time) with 15K less miles. And every part is warranted/tested. If I put $12K into my Charger I would have had more power, and same brakes, but it would still be 3 years older, and something like 17K miles more used, and hard to sell/trade for anything approaching what I spent on it over what it was stock.
I can't put a value on doing modifications to your car so you get to keep that one that you want, and make it better, but for the money in the long run with everything like warranty, resale, I stand by, if they make a better car, buy that one.
And both my Charger, and my current Challenger were/are very unique, actually both were 1 of 1 cars, and I loved them both. At times I still wish I kept the Charger and went with an E-Force, it would have been a hoot, and very unique. But that all goes away when I get in the Challenger.
So, if you really, really want to keep the one you got, go for supercharger, easiest way to a real increase compared to 10 other things totaling close to the same money. You can even get a warranty with one. And easiest to remove and return to stock if you want to move on later.
Some of us just get a "connection" with out cars and once we personalize them we enjoy them even more. I have a lot of mods to my R/T and it is at a dyno shop right now, if I bought a 2020 Scat Pack or Hellcat all it would really be to me is a work beater. I already have my toy.
 

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Some of us just get a "connection" with out cars and once we personalize them we enjoy them even more. I have a lot of mods to my R/T and it is at a dyno shop right now, if I bought a 2020 Scat Pack or Hellcat all it would really be to me is a work beater. I already have my toy.
I agree and understand 100%, hence the bold parts in my post. I feel that way about every car, but every time I trade for a different one, and look back, probably about 4 of the 5 I would do again. There are a couple I wish I could have kept somewhere, but that isn't feasible.
 

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I agree and understand 100%, hence the bold parts in my post. I feel that way about every car, but every time I trade for a different one, and look back, probably about 4 of the 5 I would do again. There are a couple I wish I could have kept somewhere, but that isn't feasible.
I know what you mean, I have a 1 car garage and 3 cars and every time I pick up a 2nd toy, I put up a car port for it, try to keep it nice and clean and after about 2 years unload the car and give away the car port, just to get it out of there, then after a couple years I forget what a pain 4 cars are in my situation so I pick up a 4th one and put up a car port (done it 3 times so far), now when I see something I want I remind myself, and so does my wife.
 

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Initial costs come into play always. Ya sure you can go out and spend 40k for a car to get a warranty, but mod it and youve kissed that warranty goodbye so it became useless to get the warranty and mod it. If your waiting for the warranty to expire then mod it you paid twice as much while guys who build a car can come in under the cost, get a car the way we think it should be and know all the work was done to our satisfaction. I pick and choose the options i want from the dodge parts bin and some not in their parts bin, dont give two $hits about the warranty dodge offers cause its never getting used anyways. Hell i dont want some kid fresh out of school who has no experience working on my car, search for the horror stories of people whove been to the dealer and gotten screwed over. The people who say" just buy a scat or hellcat" kill me.
 
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