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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey all, I have a 2010 3.5L v6 SXT and this is the trouble code I am getting. Any idea where to find or troubleshoot this code? I had the intake off recently to replace the little blue EGR pipe gasket at the intake side to fix the vacuum leak and am thinking maybe I missed or didn't fully connect a sensor somewhere? Thoughts?

Thx
 

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The Bacon Hauler (‘12 Cop Charger)
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Can you take a pic of the engine, making sure to get the front of the intake plenum in focus and post that up?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
on it...
 

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2016 SXT Plus Blacktop
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P2017-Short Runner Valve (SRV) Position Sensor Circuit High

Go to the Chilton online manual


2010> Dodge> Challenger> Repair> In search box type p2017

There will be one result, diagnostics and testing

A Guy
 

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The Bacon Hauler (‘12 Cop Charger)
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This sounds like it’s related to the infamous P1004 issue, it’s just that I’ve never seen this code, especially in lieu of the P1004.

Either way, the first attempt to fix would be the same: remove the plenum and clean the inside of the short and long runners with brake cleaner and/or B12 Chemtool.

Manually actuating the butterfly valves inside the intake could give an indication of when the plenum is clean enough. Once they can be fully opened and closed without any hitches, the runners are clean enough.

I don’t know which sensor is monitored to throw this code, but if it’s the same one that actuates the valves then it may need to be replaced. Some testing with a multimeter should be able to confirm the sensor is bad, if it has gone teets up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
OK, sooooo Let me explain a bit about this car. I bought it about 2 years ago off of a friend that thought the motor was toast and just wanted a new car, so sold it to me cheap with it barely running and throwing up codes like your first Sambuca drunk night's next morning. That being said, the car sat for about a year before I touched it. Took a look at it finally and $1.87 Canadian (including tax) I fixed the main issues by replacing the little blue EGR tube to intake manifold gasket. Took the plenum off to do the job cleaned a few spots here and there and basically brings us to this point.

The car runs and idles fine. Just has this little check engine light staring at me:

992374


Yes. you read that right. Odometer is correct Half mil KM's. BTW, this is what I get when the headlights are on and the car is running. The dash kinda hums and fuzzes (louder the brighter) and I was wondering that this can't be the right fully operating dash is it? Any thoughts about this?

Now, back to the check engine light. I don't know if it was a problem before I took apart the intake or not. That being said, I don't know how long or short it had been on for and what it is exactly about so I did a cose read with torque pro (love this program) and got this:

992375


Hey Nuke... funny you should mention P1004... lol

So you asked to take a few pics of the engine bay...

992376


another:

992377


One more:

992378


Anything jump out at u?

How about this?

992379


This just pulled apart when I unbolted it to have a look. It kinda was calling out to me as a part that would cry p2017 when in pain. could this also spit p1004? I'm gonna hit up Pick n Pull today to grab a replacement whatever this doohickey is.

And Last but not least:


992380


here she is in fairly decent shape despite it's well travelled heritage. All 487 and change KM of it. I don't know yet how I feel about it. I am more of a GM guy myself - mainly Buick. Gots me a couple of them. Pretty sure my signature has the details lol. Another friend of mine is super horny over it so I promised her first dibs if I sell it, but just want to get it up n going first. It needs a Windshield and e-brake cable replaced before I can get it insured after passing out of province safety inspection in it.

So haven't decided what I am gonna do with it yet. first I have to actually drive it before I can make that call. Anyways back to the issue at hand... Thoughts? Thanks for the help and pointers. So far you guys seem to be a decent group. Appreciate it. Looking forward to playing with it in the near future.

Chris
 

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The Bacon Hauler (‘12 Cop Charger)
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992386


That SRV valve actuator is not supposed to come apart like that. That is the source of the P2017 code I’m thinking.

I bet one of the previous owners saw the P1004 code and took that SRV actuator apart in an attempt to fix it. A thorough cleaning of the intake plenum is what cures the P1004. A new SRV actuator will be required to solve the P2017 I’m afraid.

BTW, you can check the condition of the short runner valves with respect to the P1004 code by manually actuating the valves with a flat head screw driver. Just stick it into that slot I colored red in the pic and turn it to the right. It should turn about 90 degrees and then stop, and it should be a smooth, easy motion.

The P1004 comes out when those valves cannot turn smoothly or get stuck in the closed position due to oily gunk built up inside the intake. Cleaning all that gunk out will take care of the P1004.

Also on the topic of that blue o-ring you replaced on the back of the plenum in the EGR inlet: it will always be a source of trouble if you have to remove the intake again and again. I ended up discarding that sucker and using red RTV sealant around that EGR tube each time I reinstalled the plenum. That way no more vacuum leak there and no more having to pull the intake twice to address a leak after pulling it once for some other reason.

I like the list of cars in your signature, but shouldn’t that second one be a T-Type instead of a T-Top?
 
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Hey Nuke, thanks! Ya I like my little list of cars. This Coronavirus break is giving me time to work on them.

It's a real Grand National with a t-top... It's not a T-Type. That's a different model:

992410


But yeah, I am heading to Pick n Pull to see if I can get that sensor. I am gonna assume that it is a common part amongst all the Chrysler units of that era? Will report back later and let you know how it goes...
 
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The Bacon Hauler (‘12 Cop Charger)
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Hey Nuke, thanks! Ya I like my little list of cars. This Corona is giving me time to work on them.

It's a real Grand National with a t-top... It's not a T-Type. That's a different model:

View attachment 992410

But yeah, I am heading to Pick n Pull to see if I can get that sensor. I am gonna assume that it is a common part amongst all the Chrysler units of that era? Will report back later and let you know how it goes...
Oh, well then my apologies. Yes, the GN is definitely different from the T-Type (isn’t it just a bigger turbo though?), but the real question is does the lack of body support the t-tops introduce mean you have to install subframe connectors so the unibody won’t twist under the considerable torque the turbocharger outputs?

As for that SRV actuator, any Dodge 3.5L should have one. So you can include minivans, Chargers, and Challengers in your search criteria for a place that might have one. They stopped making those engines in 2010, so that could be a problem (most of the vehicles that old would have been crushed for recycling $$ at a wrecking yard by now). But if it’s a Dodge 3.5L, it should have one of those units you can use to replace yours.

BTW, I don’t know what the difference in cost would be between just that SRV actuator and the whole plenum with the SRV on it, but if the cost difference is minimal, you might consider just grabbing the whole intake plenum. Those screw holes in the plastic tend to strip out pretty easily, so having a backup plenum to use if you end up stripping out the holes for your SRV or TB would be nice.
 

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So? The p2017 is associated with the part in the left of the last picture?
And p2004 is associated with the parts you shaded red?

Then can you explain this?
I only had a p2004 code. I replaced the Intake Actuator like the professional who read my code originally said to do.
NOW! I have not only a p2004, AGAIN, (Which explains it if it is involving the part you shaded in the picture. )
BUT now I have a code for p2017 also.
The wires all seem fine, is it just a bad part? Or is it just clogged?
 

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The Bacon Hauler (‘12 Cop Charger)
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So? The p2017 is associated with the part in the left of the last picture?
And p2004 is associated with the parts you shaded red?

Then can you explain this?
I only had a p2004 code. I replaced the Intake Actuator like the professional who read my code originally said to do.
NOW! I have not only a p2004, AGAIN, (Which explains it if it is involving the part you shaded in the picture. )
BUT now I have a code for p2017 also.
The wires all seem fine, is it just a bad part? Or is it just clogged?
I think you meant P1004, not P2004, right?

If so, that is usually caused by gunk buildup behind the part I colored in red. That gunk can build up to the point of causing a failure in the actuator valve itself, so replacing it may help, but if the valves it actuated remain all gunked up, they will still be hard to open/close and probably cause repeat DTCs.

What you should do is remove the whole intake plenum and inspect the condition of those butterfly valves that actuator controls. Manually rotate their shaft to see if it turns freely or sticks or is glued in one position or what. It should turn freely with no opposition, but the presence of those codes usually means it is being impeded by something (gunk built up inside the plenum usually).
 
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I think you meant P1004, not P2004, right?

If so, that is usually caused by gunk buildup behind the part I colored in red. That gunk can build up to the point of causing a failure in the actuator valve itself, so replacing it may help, but if the valves it actuated remain all gunked up, they will still be hard to open/close and probably cause repeat DTCs.

What you should do is remove the whole intake plenum and inspect the condition of those butterfly valves that actuator controls. Manually rotate their shaft to see if it turns freely or sticks or is glued in one position or what. It should turn freely with no opposition, but the presence of those codes usually means it is being impeded by something (gunk built up inside the plenum usually).
Yes I did mean p1004 haha. Thank you for the information. I do have to replace the o-ring if I remove it correct? Even if it is less than a week old? Is it a specific o-ring to that part?
 

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The Bacon Hauler (‘12 Cop Charger)
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Yes I did mean p1004 haha. Thank you for the information. I do have to replace the o-ring if I remove it correct? Even if it is less than a week old? Is it a specific o-ring to that part?
As long as it is in good shape, no need to replace it.

The EGR tube that plugs into the back of the plenum has a little blue o-ring that is recommended to replace every time the plenum is removed and reinstalled. That could get old if you have to do it several times, not to mention that tube never really seals back up right anyway.

Honestly, I found using some Red RTV silicone (meant for high heat/exhaust applications) around that EGR tube at reassembly is the best way to deal with that potential vacuum leak.
 

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Awesome I will try the above thank you.
You also mentioned the holes that hold it can strip. Any chance you know the name of the part the Intake Actuator attaches too?
 

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The Bacon Hauler (‘12 Cop Charger)
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Awesome I will try the above thank you.
You also mentioned the holes that hold it can strip. Any chance you know the name of the part the Intake Actuator attaches too?
The SRV actuator bolts to the plenum body itself. So if you strip out some of those holes, the whole intake plenum would need to be replaced...theoretically. I stripped out a couple on mine eventually and just got bigger screws to make it work. Not really worth the money to replace the whole thing over that IMHO.
 
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