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Discussion Starter #1
Greetings, I'm new to the site (very first post) and thinking about getting a Challanger SRT8 (Core w/auto trans)next fall. I do bracket race and would like some feedback on how they run. This wouldn't be my primary bracket car but its nice just to drive to track, race, and drive back home with the ac and radio cranking. I'm not looking to mod the crap out of the car as there is no real need to go faster in bracket racing. However the need for consistancy or the ability to predict changes is paramount. Thanks in advance.
 

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i find it hard to bracket race in my challenger because my helmet hits the roof. that makes it hard to turn my head to see my opponent :)

how they run?....can you be more specific?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
i find it hard to bracket race in my challenger because my helmet hits the roof. that makes it hard to turn my head to see my opponent :)

how they run?....can you be more specific?
Turn your head to see your opponent????? Shouldn't you watch where your going? LOL I just sat in a 2014 Core with cloth seats and no sunroof. At 6'4" there was plenty of headroom.

What is the visibility of watching faster cars come up and have the ability to back in? Any blind spots looking at oppponents in the right and left lanes?

How are the brakes on the top end...can I pump the brakes and scrub without lockup? What is the "feel"? Can I pick a spot on the track bang the brake pedal 6 times and drop down dead on my dial?

How consistant (with drag radials and auto) is the car running round robbin? Running double classes with say 10 minutes max between elimination rounds?

What is the max launch rpm footbreaking the stock converter and brakes?

What does it take to make these cars run 11.50 (1/4) or 7.50 (1/8) indexes deep staged in mid summer?

Please no flames as this is bracket racing. Yes, 90% of the time I'm either on the brakes, lifting on and off the gas, or both.
 

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Turn your head to see your opponent????? Shouldn't you watch where your going? LOL I just sat in a 2014 Core with cloth seats and no sunroof. At 6'4" there was plenty of headroom. its drag racing just keep the whell straight, right? :) the helmet comment was for your other thread lol

What is the visibility of watching faster cars come up and have the ability to back in? Any blind spots looking at oppponents in the right and left lanes? mirrors are your friend

How are the brakes on the top end...can I pump the brakes and scrub without lockup? What is the "feel"? Can I pick a spot on the track bang the brake pedal 6 times and drop down dead on my dial? I can :)

How consistant (with drag radials and auto) is the car running round robbin? Running double classes with say 10 minutes max between elimination rounds? well i do have 3 track titles so its ok but you have to know your car

What is the max launch rpm footbreaking the stock converter and brakes? damn dont remember that, stock convertor didnt last long in my car

What does it take to make these cars run 11.50 (1/4) or 7.50 (1/8) indexes deep staged in mid summer? lighted the load and a 426 in my case

Please no flames as this is bracket racing. Yes, 90% of the time I'm either on the brakes, lifting on and off the gas, or both.
now to be honest that was with my 300. my stroked and blown challenger is very consistant also, it farkin breaks every outing...lmao




hope to see you at the track soon, good luck with it
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
The car is only as good as the driver....modding will be as good as the builder....
I disagree. A good driver can win with a bad car. I don't need the disadvantage of having a bad car. Given a full season a driver is only as good as the car. One reaches a point where a driver (no matter how good) needs to depend on the car. In bracket racing the package is the car's performance and the drivers. I have taken bad cars (+ or - .2) into the winners circle. Problem is doing that every weekend.

My old back up street car was a 07 Mustang auto. Limited on racing options but a very solid bracket car. I wasn't afraid to enter the car in big money races and expect to win.

Trying to get feedback to see what the car can do reguardless of DA or driver skill levels.

I'm an experienced bracket racer who know how to dial hard and run it out, hold a ton and drive the stripe, and to spot drop. Just need a car that "easy" to drive.

Maybe I should get a SRT to borrow for a weekend. lol
 

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I disagree. A good driver can win with a bad car. I don't need the disadvantage of having a bad car. Given a full season a driver is only as good as the car. One reaches a point where a driver (no matter how good) needs to depend on the car. In bracket racing the package is the car's performance and the drivers. I have taken bad cars (+ or - .2) into the winners circle. Problem is doing that every weekend.

My old back up street car was a 07 Mustang auto. Limited on racing options but a very solid bracket car. I wasn't afraid to enter the car in big money races and expect to win.

Trying to get feedback to see what the car can do reguardless of DA or driver skill levels.

I'm an experienced bracket racer who know how to dial hard and run it out, hold a ton and drive the stripe, and to spot drop. Just need a car that "easy" to drive.

Maybe I should get a SRT to borrow for a weekend. lol
you just lost 97% of the people on this forum
 

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Greetings, I'm new to the site (very first post) and thinking about getting a Challanger SRT8 (Core w/auto trans)next fall. I do bracket race and would like some feedback on how they run. This wouldn't be my primary bracket car but its nice just to drive to track, race, and drive back home with the ac and radio cranking. I'm not looking to mod the crap out of the car as there is no real need to go faster in bracket racing. However the need for consistancy or the ability to predict changes is paramount. Thanks in advance.
I have a '12 SRT A5 coming up on 300 passes soon. I run the IHRA Summit Series Street Class and will be doing the Mod no Box Class next spring too. I find my car is an awesome bracket racer. I can get 1.82 60' all day long unless the temp drops below 42 using 275/50/17 M&H DRs. They are 28" tall and drive fine on the street. I also run some 26" 275/40/17s M&Hs which are 26" tall and are .2 quicker with the gearing benefit. I have third rung out at 6600 RPM in the qtr with the 26 inchers. I use them for grudge racing and shootouts.
There are two bogeys to overcome with the A5s. Good DRs so your 60's are consistent and a tune to remove the tq mgmnt. Which in itself is intermittent and can vary your ET by more than a tenth run to run. These things pull throttle, fuel and timing at shift with tq mgmnt in play. That in itself wouldn’t be so bad if it did it consistently but each shift is different with respect to the amount of tq mgmnt. (nannies) that the car uses.
My car runs within .05 of each run. I usually use two dial ins (one for each lane) as that is a larger variant than the car.
My car is always 1/10th faster on the first time trial run (fluids still warm from driving to the track) but very repeatable after that.
AC to and from the track is a must for me as we get 80 days of over 95 degrees here. The HK sound system isn’t too bad either. I generally leave my DRs on after Feb. as I do one summit series and two shootouts a month and hate changing them. I think the M&Hs last longer than the F1s…
You get some good competition DRs and a tune to reduce tq mgmnt, the only thing to blame for a loss is the driver J.
 

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I run sport mode and let it auto shift ("D"), you'll blow it if you try to manual shift as 1st to 2nd happens way too fast. My tune has raised rev limiter and shift points. Despite what others say, Shifting at 6400 is the quickest as it will drop you down to 4300 in the next gear. Any lower and you’re not in the peak power band.
I launch at 2K and hammer it unless the track prep is crap.
I generally don't hammer the brakes on the top end but the car is very capable and stable when doing so. I run balls out with no sand bagging so rarley slow down in the traps.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
you just lost 97% of the people on this forum
Well I figured as much. Hopefully the 3% left will give me some info.

KJ392, thanks for that. Its a given that the car will have MT ET Streets. The issues about tork mgmt is what I'm interested in hearing about. Changing the rear gears is another option I'm considering. Gear change is going to depend on how the car reacts to the tree.

Just trying to shorten the learning curve.

Thanks.
 

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Well I figured as much. Hopefully the 3% left will give me some info.

KJ392, thanks for that. Its a given that the car will have MT ET Streets. The issues about tork mgmt is what I'm interested in hearing about. Changing the rear gears is another option I'm considering. Gear change is going to depend on how the car reacts to the tree.

Just trying to shorten the learning curve.

Thanks.
I think you'll find that you will ditch the MT Streets for the track and use them on the street. 17" rims with either a 275/50 or 275/40 competition DR will give you the most consistent 60's. Depends a lot on your competition as for how much you need to step up your game. Street Class at my track has two very good and consistent drivers one being a 300 SRT so I can't afford to have my 60' vary a tenth so I run the M&Hs. Get her to hook and remove the tq mgmnt and your car should not vary a tenth run to run. I'm also going to run water/meth next spring as the temps are near 100 during time trials and then drop to lower 90s at sunset so there is always that variable. Water/meth should help keep the IATs constant.
I'm generally the only street car running in the 7s for the 1/8th at the track I go to so I'm always leaving last and playing catch up until the last 20'. I rarely breakout but if I do, you can bet the other guys is breaking out worse unless I cut a .00X light. For me, dial what you run and leave nothing on the table. The guys that sandbag a tenth are the ones going home in the 2nd round from breaking out.
 

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KJ392 laid it out pretty well IMO. I just got my super comp lisc this last fall. No, not in the challenger. lol
Running right at 11.1 tickeling the 10s its easy to keep in the grove if you line up right. Im finding the rear cradle moves around a bit from the soft bushings
(being corrected soon) so I stage keeping both bulbs lit. I come up on my converter pretty hard and pre load the suspension. 60s are 1:54
And I dont pull timing climbing up on the converter as some claim they do, i dont.
The burn out is important now, as the power went up it became more of an issue even running 10x28 hoosier wrinkle walls to keep a consistant 60ft.
During the burn out it can go 2 ways, it the altered I have a burn out button so I can hammer it wot and not be off the limiter. In the challenger there is none so its easy to bounce off the rev limiter untill your used to the car and can feel it as you come out of the water feathering the gas peddle.
I try and run as much air as possible in the slicks and still hook it up, so to light a burn out means it will be greazy on the green. To much just beats the car and tires up. I have forgot about mr squigles once and when i went green and mashed it the car fell on its face then took off. Killed et by .50 so I done it a few more times just to see and it was pretty consistant killing the et...lol lol Where Im at if you dont have RT thats at least double 0 and your in the single digets you will be on the trailor going home fast. heres what I can add anyway/
FlatTop
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Will 17" wheels fit the Brembo brakes? I have a set of '07 mustang 17" rims with MT drag radials. Would be a cheap setup for me. lol.

I'm looking to make as little mods as possible to get the best consistancy as possible. I'm not conserned with 60' or ET other than being solid consistant. I want to be able to use the car as a back bracket car and to attend street car type events such as modern muscle, usa vs import, mopar vs the world, etc. At the same time being competitive in "big money" events if needed. Running low 13's or high 12's is more that fast for what I want.

My other bracket car is a 95 firebird formula 383lt1, t400, 12 bolt spool running 11.40 -12.0. Pump gas car very dependable and solid.

Fast car is a 93 vette, 434, t350, back 1/2ed 12 bolt spool. 750 rhp with an additional 300 spray. I pulled the juice and turned back the throttle cable to run 10.0 and still have to lift most of the time.

Thanks
 

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Will 17" wheels fit the Brembo brakes? I have a set of '07 mustang 17" rims with MT drag radials. Would be a cheap setup for me. lol.

I'm looking to make as little mods as possible to get the best consistancy as possible. I'm not conserned with 60' Thanks
Yep I would like to know if a 17" wheel will fit over the Brembo brakes and where's the best place and price to get the wheels, thanks
 

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PLEASE disregard post # 16 #17 , smartass on keyboard and I do not know how to delete.
This is obviously an experienced racer !
 

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Yep I would like to know if a 17" wheel will fit over the Brembo brakes and where's the best place and price to get the wheels, thanks
Mustang rims are going to be the wrong bold pattern. The correct 17 inch rims will fit over the brembos. I run 17 inch cobra replicas and no problems with MT on them. This is on my 2012 challenger SRT-8.
 

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I rarely breakout but if I do, you can bet the other guys is breaking out worse unless I cut a .00X light. For me, dial what you run and leave nothing on the table. The guys that sandbag a tenth are the ones going home in the 2nd round from breaking out.
^^ This.

There is zero benefit to sandbagging. Either dial balls on or .01 soft.

In street division consistently putting together .03 packages or better will go rounds. Most bracket races are won at the tree and not the big end. 95% of casual bracket racers in street go .1x on the tree and never go rounds even if they run their dial.
 

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Yep I would like to know if a 17" wheel will fit over the Brembo brakes and where's the best place and price to get the wheels, thanks
I run these. P/N 10080 Light cheap and strong.

Results for 10080 - AmericanMuscle.com

Hone the centers out to 73.5mm and you're good to go. They clear the rear brembos just fine but spacers are required if putting them up front.
I run a set of M&H 275/40/17s for best ET and grudge racing. (26" tall so you get some gearing benefit).
I run a set of M&H 275/50/17"s for braket racing. (28" tall so no changing the tire height required for the speedo to be spot on)

I can spin the 275/40/17s so I use the 275/50/17s for consistent launches in bracket racing.
 

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Discussion Starter #20 (Edited)
^^ This.

There is zero benefit to sandbagging. Either dial balls on or .01 soft. .
How many times can you dial spot on or .01 hard and actually run that number flat out? There are a lot of things that can change ET on a give round such as staging a little too shallow or deep, DA changes, wind, cloud cover, eng water temp, trans temp, eng oil temp and the list goes on. How many times are you going to be .03-04 over or pick up and be .01-.02 too fast? When I "sandbag" and hold .08 I know 100% of the time I'm going to be first to the stripe and have the ability to scrub ET and go dead on. I reley on my ability to drive the top end and take a .019-.010 mov. Knowing that I can make the car go dead on lets me get a little easier on the tree. I can set up for a .020 light and still have a good package. When I set up for a .00x light I will be red 22% of the time. Not good when I normally have the slower car in the class. This is the plan I use the most in bracket racing (.020 light and hold .08).

There are times when I agree with ya. Set up for a .00x light and dial hard to go dead on. I go to this method when I feel that I can't judge the mov (other car is so much quicker like when my 14 second car goes up against a low 9 second car) or I feel the other driver is a better sandbagger who can do a better job on the top end. This is the easiest method (bracket racing isn't easy) because after the light you reley on the car and not on top end driving ability.

Another method for handling another sandbagger is simply hold the .08 as normal and scrub off ET to drop spot back to make the car go dead on. I pick a physical place on the track (mph cone, sign, light pole etc) and know how many times I need to lift off the gas. This confused my opponent when they are trying to adjust to take the finish line by a wheel or less.

I try to play the percentages to give myself the best way to win the round. Any stragety executed to perfection will get a win.
 
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