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Discussion Starter #401
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Here is my next problem area to address. Apparently Hellion didn’t think it was a good idea to use ATI dampers when they designed this kit. So I’m going to have to massage the bracket to clear my damper bolts. It also is a very tight fit getting that belt on. But I love the idea of having a crank driven scavenge pump. No electrical issues to worry about here.


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Discussion Starter #402
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I’m going to Come off the ends of this setup directly into the pan as opposed to the breather side of the oil fill on the intake.


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Discussion Starter #403
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I could T or Y off but I’m just going to use the one side now. When I was thinking about doing this myself I had my pan modified to have returns from each turbo directly into the pan. For now I’ll just use one unless I need the second. This is by far the best part of the Hellion kit.


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Discussion Starter #404 (Edited)
63038258386__91E4D772-640F-4B4D-96C3-FC82E6B3CED6.jpg

So I fixed the flange design flaw. The guy I bought this kit from said he kept blowing gaskets. I can understand why when you are trying to seal a D-port with a Circle port flange. SMH at Hellion for that design decision. I’m sure you guys with sharp eyes will notice I didn’t grind down the welds. I’m going to smooth everything out once I finish the passenger side. I may use my Tig machine to fill in any holes I may have missed as well.


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Do you have YouTube channel? Vids of your car racing before the fire?
 

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View attachment 1009495
Here is my next problem area to address. Apparently Hellion didn’t think it was a good idea to use ATI dampers when they designed this kit. So I’m going to have to massage the bracket to clear my damper bolts. It also is a very tight fit getting that belt on. But I love the idea of having a crank driven scavenge pump. No electrical issues to worry about here.


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I like the crank driven pump too, but I'd keep a spare belt on hand just in case. Having had blowers before, it never hurts to have a spare handy because sometimes Mr. Murphy shows up at and screws a good plan up! :)

View attachment 1009500
So I fixed the flange design flaw. The guy I bought this kit from said he kept blowing gaskets. I can understand why when you are trying to seal a D-port with a Circle port flange. SMH at Hellion for that design decision. I’m sure you guys with sharp eyes will notice I didn’t grind down the welds. I’m going to smooth everything out once I finish the passenger side. I may use my Tig machine to fill in any holes I may have missed as well.

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You might know this already but when you weld on that (even with a TIG where you can control the heat better), you might want to do stitch welds because if you concentrate too much heat in one area, you could possibly warp or distort something. Like I said, you might know that already but it never hurts for a reminder.

Is that flange for our Hemi heads or is is one size fits all?
 

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Discussion Starter #407
Do you have YouTube channel? Vids of your car racing before the fire?
I just started up a YouTube channel. I’m going to post some old videos here soon along with what I’ve recorded of this build. It’s called 3 Pedal Jay


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I like the crank driven pump too, but I'd keep a spare belt on hand just in case. Having had blowers before, it never hurts to have a spare handy because sometimes Mr. Murphy shows up at and screws a good plan up! :)



You might know this already but when you weld on that (even with a TIG where you can control the heat better), you might want to do stitch welds because if you concentrate too much heat in one area, you could possibly warp or distort something. Like I said, you might know that already but it never hurts for a reminder.

Is that flange for our Hemi heads or is is one size fits all?
FreddyG thanks for the reminder. I definitely used a stitch technique. My tig welding needs a lot more practice for sure. The flange is for our D-Port heads. I cut up a set of long tubes I wasn’t sure what to do with. I got them fairly cheap from this site and they have come in handy.


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Discussion Starter #408
IMG_3644.jpg

Here they are nearly finished. Just have to clean up the welds a bit


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Discussion Starter #409
63053850101__4B96A339-702D-4058-A4A7-E7E0209DE308.jpg

Here’s another POV. I’m super happy with how these turned out. They could’ve been better but I’m happy with my work thus far.


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Your fabrication is making this thread/your build all the more enjoyable! Kudos (y)

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FreddyG thanks for the reminder. I definitely used a stitch technique. My tig welding needs a lot more practice for sure. The flange is for our D-Port heads. I cut up a set of long tubes I wasn’t sure what to do with. I got them fairly cheap from this site and they have come in handy.


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You're Welcome. TIG welding isn't like using a point and shoot MIG machine. It's like any other skill in that it takes practice.

I used to be a Nuclear Certified welder (MANY years ago) and it took me a good, solid 6 weeks of TIG (GTAW) welding 5 hours a day before I Certified in that. By the time that I was done, I could drop a row of dimes on mild steel, stainless steel, aluminum, titanium and inconel. I was Certed in other types of welding too but TIG was the hardest to learn and took the most patience.

Some Guys get it quicker, some slower, but my point is that it takes time to get Really good at it. I think that you're doing Great!

View attachment 1009617
Here’s another POV. I’m super happy with how these turned out. They could’ve been better but I’m happy with my work thus far.


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Nice job! (y)

My advice is to not be so hard on yourself about how they look because some high temp paint or Jet coating will make them look better (not too mention a welder's favorite tool............their grinder and I had four of them and a Crazy assortment of carbide deburring bits for just about any material that you could think of :)).

The nice thing about those log manifolds is that the material that they are usually made of is thicker and you can usually put some heat to it and not worry about blowing holes in it like if it were a stainless tube styled header.

Keep up the good work and once again, Thanks for sharing your progress!
 

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Discussion Starter #412
Thanks for the encouraging words FreddyG. You are right about Tig Welding. It takes a lot of practice. I’m going to make it a point to practice doing it more.


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View attachment 1008233
I also scored these awesome Viking Double adjustable shocks for an amazing price. This along with the DSS Axles and hopefully DSS one piece drive shaft should be able to handle my soon to be new found power potential.


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Hey Dak,

I'm looking at shocks currently. Have you had Crusaders on another car and can speak to the ride? Viking's spec sheet labels them as "track use only". Trying to decide between Warriors and Crusaders.

Also, what are you doing, if anything, to the fronts?
 

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Discussion Starter #415
Hey Dak,

I'm looking at shocks currently. Have you had Crusaders on another car and can speak to the ride? Viking's spec sheet labels them as "track use only". Trying to decide between Warriors and Crusaders.

Also, what are you doing, if anything, to the fronts?
So these are the first time I’ve ever used Vikings for any application. I can’t speak to their streetability. But I know several guys around Md that run them on the street just on a soft setting. For the fronts I’m going with Lakewood 90/10’s with my H&R springs.


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Discussion Starter #416
IMG_3666.jpg

So the exhaust valve I ordered a month ago finally got here and now I have two completely built heads. My wickerbill also got here so I’ll install that tomorrow. More to come.


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So these are the first time I’ve ever used Vikings for any application. I can’t speak to their streetability. But I know several guys around Md that run them on the street just on a soft setting. For the fronts I’m going with Lakewood 90/10’s with my H&R springs.


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Thanks Dak. Are those Lakewood 90/10's a direct fit or do you have to do any modifications to install them?

Congrats on getting your exhaust valves, by the way. Looking good!
 
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Discussion Starter #419
Nice!
Which head gaskets are you going with?
I’m running factory Hellcat gaskets. They have the correct bore spacing @4.09 & are multilayered steel. If they can handle boost from a Hellcat, they should work for me.


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Thanks Dak. Are those Lakewood 90/10's a direct fit or do you have to do any modifications to install them?

Congrats on getting your exhaust valves, by the way. Looking good!
The Lakewood’s should be a direct fit. I’m not 100% on that one yet. I haven’t bought them as of yet


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Discussion Starter #420
IMG_3671.jpg

So I was finally able to button up the rear of my car. Cosmetics aren’t part of this turbo build, but damn I love how it turned out. Let me know what you all think.


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