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Discussion Starter #441
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It’s funny how motivation works. It’s literally freezing outside and I’m building an engine. Hellcat multilayered steal head gaskets for the win


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Discussion Starter #442
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A little test fit before the head gets installed. Everything lined up perfectly. For those that don’t know a Hellcat 6.2 and SRT/Scatpack 6.4 share the same bore spacing @ 4.09”. I belt my 6.4 stock bore spacing. I’ll make my power with more boost.


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Discussion Starter #443
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Passenger side head installed. Tech tip you have to remove the ARP head studs to install the passenger side head. Then reinstall them once it is seated. Use a long #5 ball pinned Allen wrench to get the ARP studs snug to the block floor.


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Discussion Starter #444
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Minds well do the drivers side as well. Can’t get any colder out.


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Discussion Starter #445
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I’m very happy with the figment of everything. It’s taken a long time, a bu ch of math, some crazy set backs but I’m finally seeing real progress. It feels good.


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Discussion Starter #446
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Last one for tonight. Look at those ports. If all goes well, I expect this deal to make some steam. I’ve got a ton of time into the intake and exhaust ports. Along with the exhaust manifolds and intake manifold. Those of you who are still interested know everything was gasket matched and pocket ported. Some polishing was also done since I had it apart.

Still need to order the drive mandrel for the Balancer, injectors and EBoost2. After that I’ll fix the wiring harness and start dealing with the drive train and suspension. I’m getting a little closer.


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Discussion Starter #447
Side bar does anyone know of a decent powder coated in DC Maryland or Virginia. My guy took a break and I have no idea how long it’s going to take him to get back in business


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Welds aren’t the best. I have a lot to learn when it comes to Tig Welding. The machine I have isn’t the best either but it’s what I have to learn with. The manifolds fit perfectly and the gasket matched port look amazing. Everything lined up with ease. I hope this thing makes power after all of this work I’ve put in. Time will tell more to come thanks for following along.


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The welds are not that bad. You don't need a fancy welding machine for TIG welding. The trick is to hold a short arc length without contaminating your tungsten by touching it to the metal you are welding. The weld to the can looks like excessive travel speed. Picture perfect weld look like a "stack of dimes". When the weld ripples are V shaped, you are traveling too fast

You probably have some metal laying around your workspace that you can use for practice. Keep welding until you can maintain a shorter arc length and circular weld ripples
 

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Discussion Starter #451
The welds are not that bad. You don't need a fancy welding machine for TIG welding. The trick is to hold a short arc length without contaminating your tungsten by touching it to the metal you are welding. The weld to the can looks like excessive travel speed. Picture perfect weld look like a "stack of dimes". When the weld ripples are V shaped, you are traveling too fast

You probably have some metal laying around your workspace that you can use for practice. Keep welding until you can maintain a shorter arc length and circular weld ripples
Thanks for that advice. I’ve got tons of spare metal laying around and I need to practice much more. I will do that just also have to get this project completed. I think you were correct about my travel speed. I didn’t know I was going to fast.


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Discussion Starter #452
Quick question for those of you still following this build. Have any of you used a phaser lock out instead of a phaser limiter for aggressive cams? I used the limiter for my 270 but I’m thinking I may be better served with a lock out for this cam. What are you all’s thoughts. Cam profile is in one of the earlier post.


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Quick question for those of you still following this build. Have any of you used a phaser lock out instead of a phaser limiter for aggressive cams? I used the limiter for my 270 but I’m thinking I may be better served with a lock out for this cam. What are you all’s thoughts. Cam profile is in one of the earlier post.


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My brother is using a lock on his TSP stage 3 Boost cam.
.582"/.582" 223/232 115+3
Cam is in the block rn, but this damn snowstorm stopped us from getting the timing set and the rest of the motor back together. I need a garage
 
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Discussion Starter #454
Thanks for the response bro. This just confirms what I need to do. But I’m pissed I have to tear the front cover back off to do it.


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Discussion Starter #455
IMG_3782.jpg

So here is the part needed to correct the surge pump issues encountered with the Hellion Kit and running an ATI balancer. For the record the steps I’m taking here can be avoided if you are cool with the mandrel gear setup Hellion supplies. I wasn’t so I had to find another solution.


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Discussion Starter #456
IMG_3784.jpg

Here is what it looks like attached to the ATI balancer. I had to order the gear for the mandrel separate. I counted the teeth on the gear that Hellion provided and ordered the equivalent one from Peterson Fluid systems. Jeg’s is who I ordered the part from but it ships directly from Peterson. For anyone who cares PN:06-1222 is a 22 tooth HTD gear for this setup. This is exactly the same as what Hellion provides just made for the Peterson Mandrel. I’m sharing everything I learn through this process to make things easier for anyone who wants to attempt to replicate a build like this. Side bar the Mandrel and gear run around $300. So add that onto the cost of doing a Hellion kit using an ATI Balancer.


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Discussion Starter #457
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This is everything that comes in the Mandrel kit. If going this route you don’t necessarily have to use the LS bolt kit I bought earlier as this setup comes with the necessary hardware to mount in a variety of configurations.


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Thanks for all the updates DakBuilder! I'm Happy to see how much progress that you're making. Now is the best time to be playing with your build, so that when all of the snow melts, you have a better chance of taking that Beast out and enjoying her!

The welds are not that bad. You don't need a fancy welding machine for TIG welding. The trick is to hold a short arc length without contaminating your tungsten by touching it to the metal you are welding. The weld to the can looks like excessive travel speed. Picture perfect weld look like a "stack of dimes". When the weld ripples are V shaped, you are traveling too fast

You probably have some metal laying around your workspace that you can use for practice. Keep welding until you can maintain a shorter arc length and circular weld ripples
I agree with everything that Mopardude9 said and would like to add some input too, if you don't mind a suggestion.

While practicing, another trick is learn how to "Walk the cup". This is where you grind and install your tungsten and let it stick out of the cup just enough that you keep it out of your puddle. Then, you move forward by rolling/pivoting on your cup instead of trying to free hand it. Do this while feeding your filler rod in there. This is how those guys get the really tight stacked look to their welds. It's harder to walk the cup with aluminum but it works well with mild/stainless steel and also is harder to do on a pipe than a flat piece of stock.

The other thing that I'd like to add is if you're comfortable with the speed that you're working at, then adjust your heat to compensate for it. This is where a pedal on your TIG machine helps because you can adjust your heat on the fly.

With enough practice, you will be able to roll more dimes than your local bank! :D

This fellow explains it better than I can.

Here's a good walking the cup video.............

By the way, as long as you're getting good penetration, a grinder can make a bad weld prettier (I'm by no means saying that your welds are ugly or anything like that because they're not, I'm just saying that there are no welders out there who don't like their grinders! I know that there were times that I liked/needed/was bailed out by mine! :D)
 

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Discussion Starter #459
Thanks for all the updates DakBuilder! I'm Happy to see how much progress that you're making. Now is the best time to be playing with your build, so that when all of the snow melts, you have a better chance of taking that Beast out and enjoying her!



I agree with everything that Mopardude9 said and would like to add some input too, if you don't mind a suggestion.

While practicing, another trick is learn how to "Walk the cup". This is where you grind and install your tungsten and let it stick out of the cup just enough that you keep it out of your puddle. Then, you move forward by rolling/pivoting on your cup instead of trying to free hand it. Do this while feeding your filler rod in there. This is how those guys get the really tight stacked look to their welds. It's harder to walk the cup with aluminum but it works well with mild/stainless steel and also is harder to do on a pipe than a flat piece of stock.

The other thing that I'd like to add is if you're comfortable with the speed that you're working at, then adjust your heat to compensate for it. This is where a pedal on your TIG machine helps because you can adjust your heat on the fly.

With enough practice, you will be able to roll more dimes than your local bank! :D

This fellow explains it better than I can.

Here's a good walking the cup video.............

By the way, as long as you're getting good penetration, a grinder can make a bad weld prettier (I'm by no means saying that your welds are ugly or anything like that because they're not, I'm just saying that there are no welders out there who don't like their grinders! I know that there were times that I liked/needed/was bailed out by mine! :D)
As I’ve said soooooo many times this past year. Any input from you Freddy is welcomed input sir. Let’s be honest my welds are terrible at best on the Tig front. That said, there is not doubt they will hold. I’m continuing to practice and will eventually get the hang of walking the cup. I also intend on getting a better machine with a pedal instead of the hand trigger. Thanks again for checking in on the build. It’s getting really close.


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