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As I’ve said soooooo many times this past year. Any input from you Freddy is welcomed input sir. Let’s be honest my welds are terrible at best on the Tig front. That said, there is not doubt they will hold. I’m continuing to practice and will eventually get the hang of walking the cup. I also intend on getting a better machine with a pedal instead of the hand trigger. Thanks again for checking in on the build. It’s getting really close.


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Thank You Sir and You're Welcome! (y) I"m excited for you to get this done and hear your driving impressions.

Your welds aren't terrible and especially aren't terrible if they hold. Like I said, nothing a grinder can't fix. :D My thoughts about welding is that I'll take function over form and when I certified, they didn't care what the cover pass looked like, they cared what it looked like when they x-rayed it. Luckily for me, I was able to make it pretty too (at least that day I was able to, but there were times where the grinder bailed me out :) ), but the stuff that's inside (root pass penetration and tie-in and lack of inclusions and other stuff like that) is what matters.

Welding porn, NSFW :D

A Guy
I Like welding porn! :D
 

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As I’ve said soooooo many times this past year. Any input from you Freddy is welcomed input sir. Let’s be honest my welds are terrible at best on the Tig front. That said, there is not doubt they will hold. I’m continuing to practice and will eventually get the hang of walking the cup. I also intend on getting a better machine with a pedal instead of the hand trigger. Thanks again for checking in on the build. It’s getting really close.


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Your welds are not terrible, I have seen much worse. I have no doubt they will hold, but they may not be as pretty as you were aiming for. I respect Freddy's opinion, he is a better TIG welder than I am. Not sure that it is necessary to walk the cup, that is primarily a pipe welding technique. As far as the controls on the machine, I have seen welders that hated foot pedals and prefered the switch on the torch. Others did perfectly fine with a scratch or a lift start. I have tested and certified a lot of welders like Freddy. I can weld, but it took me two full days in a welding booth to get TIG welds to look pretty.

Welding porn, NSFW :D

A Guy
I want to see some hardcore welding porn. Show a picture of your rig (welding machine, torch, etc)
 

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Discussion Starter #463 (Edited)
My Rig is nothing special. It’s a very cheap. China EBay special. I didn’t want to spend crazy money when I was teaching myself the basics of Tig welding. I’m planning on getting an Esaab here in the near future. I need to get something that can do aluminum also.


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My Rig is nothing special. It’s a very cheap. Gina EBay special. I don’t want to spend crazy money when I was teaching myself the basics of Tig welding. I’m planning on getting an esaab here in the near future. I need to get something that can do aluminum also.


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Once you decide you need to TIG weld aluminum, you need to spend some $ on the correct power supply. Welding on thick aluminum can be difficult unless you have an industrial three phase machine. You need hi frequency arc starting for TIG aluminum. If you are working off of your home power feed, the grounding requirements in your workspace needs to be properly addressed.

ESABs are good welders, but they are kind of weird. Reminds me of how a SAAB vehicle was designed. I bleed blue, Millers are good for TIG. Lincoln makes one that will do stick/TIG/mig, but no A/C for aluminum. You could also look into aluminum MIG, you need a spool gun for that
 

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Discussion Starter #465 (Edited)
I’ll take a pic of the machine I have tomorrow. As for the aluminum Tig I didn’t realize that so much went into it. I’m seriously looking at the Esab(thanks for the correction) I would consider a Miller also. I have a Lincoln for my mig welder. It’s been doing the job for me for over a decade now. Still works amazingly.


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I’ll take a pic of the machine I have tomorrow. As for the aluminum Tig I didn’t realize that so much went into it. I’m seriously looking at the Esab(thanks for the correction) I would consider a Miller also. I have a Lincoln for my mug welder. It’s been doing the job for me for over a decade now. Still works amazingly.


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With aluminum, in a "welding in my back yard in my garage" situatuion, 1/8" thick is about it. 220 V is a must. Aluminum MIG can weld thicker sections in a back yard setting. It depends on what you realistically plan to do.

Do you need a Demon, or an SXT?

ESABs are high quality. The "Big 3", are similar, but Miller has the best TIG, Lincoln has the best Submerged Arc. Not sure on ESAB
 

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Discussion Starter #468
With aluminum, in a "welding in my back yard in my garage" situatuion, 1/8" thick is about it. 220 V is a must. Aluminum MIG can weld thicker sections in a back yard setting. It depends on what you realistically plan to do.

Do you need a Demon, or an SXT?

ESABs are high quality. The "Big 3", are similar, but Miller has the best TIG, Lincoln has the best Submerged Arc. Not sure on ESAB
So I'm planning on building a roll cage for my Dakota. So most of the welding I'll do will be mild steel or Chromoly. But I want the ability to weld up aluminum piping for turbo charge tubes, and small brackets. I'm thinking mostly back yard type stuff.... I have 220 out in my shop because of the lift, so I'm hopeful I'm good. Thanks for posting up the video
 

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Discussion Starter #469
IMG_3798.jpg

So I got a few items in that I ordered last week. HHP hooked me up with the cam lock out kit. I’m going to pull the Phaser with the limiter and install this one instead. I figure with boost. I’ll have torque for days and this should help with tuning as well.


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Discussion Starter #470
IMG_3793.jpg

This little gem was the missing link to the oil scavenge pump. After the phaser modifications. I’ll do the final install and make oil lines.for the return setup


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Discussion Starter #471
IMG_3797.jpg

Here is the mandrel with the 22 tooth HTD pulley installed. It’s a perfect fit.


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Discussion Starter #472
IMG_3794.jpg

Here is the test fit on the balancer


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Discussion Starter #473
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Final test fitment. Now everything should work fine. Best part the design from the Peterson Fluid Mandrel and gear drive doesn’t allow the belt to jump off. I’ll still order a spare because one never really knows but I think I’ve solved all of the major issues with the Hellion Kit and ATI damper combination for our platform. I’m super excited to get this thing finished up


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Final test fitment. Now everything should work fine. Best part the design from the Peterson Fluid Mandrel and gear drive doesn’t allow the belt to jump off. I’ll still order a spare because one never really knows but I think I’ve solved all of the major issues with the Hellion Kit and ATI damper combination for our platform. I’m super excited to get this thing finished up


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Nice!
Do you have to take any bolts out to get the serpentine belt on and off?
 

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Discussion Starter #475
You can take the bolt that in front off or loosen the extended bolts. I will go with the Allen headed bolt.


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So I'm planning on building a roll cage for my Dakota. So most of the welding I'll do will be mild steel or Chromoly. But I want the ability to weld up aluminum piping for turbo charge tubes, and small brackets. I'm thinking mostly back yard type stuff.... I have 220 out in my shop because of the lift, so I'm hopeful I'm good. Thanks for posting up the video
You should be good. Just make sure you check the owners manual or sales literature for the welder you plan to buy, and make sure you check the material thickness capabilities for aluminum.
 

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Discussion Starter #477
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Found some time to get the phaser lock out done.


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Discussion Starter #478
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Now I have the joys of trying to get it all back together. Without taking most of the engine apart. I still can’t figure out how to rotate the oil pump while it’s on the crank. I know folks have done this but I’m slow I suppose. I’ll get it all worked out today or tomorrow.


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Discussion Starter #479
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Got cam Gear with lockout reinstalled


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Discussion Starter #480
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Put her all back together with the drive system intact. Side bar. I know it is possible to do this without dropping the pan. That being said I have failed far too many times. I drop it to save myself from the foul language


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