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If you were serious about this, I’d do yours. PM me what you have and if you are serious. We could work something out. I’m going to be doing one of my Eagle sets next and maybe a Pre-Eagle set that I want to put on my Ram. Hopefully I can get my hands on a reasonable priced 6.1 set here soon.


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Oh man I was only joking around haha. Tbh id love to put the money in and build it up just for fun and to be able to see the process. I have the 6.4 now and it’s a lot of car so I enjoy the hell out of it. Part of me wants to do it but I also have like 75 other house projects and 17 vacations I’d like to plan lol so the car is the end of that list as it’s just a hobby.
 
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Soooo I’m super frustrated and border lines pissed right now. I’m getting the block put back together. Attempting to check tolerances for the main bearings and what do I discover. One of my main stud nuts is missing. WTF how does this happen. Needless to say I’m heading back to the machine shop tomorrow. These things are to be expected but it is still disappointing none the less. I realize I’m bitching about first world problems. But man did this crush my motivation tonight. One last gripe I need new batteries for the torque wrench also. This I should’ve checked so it’s not as bad as the main nut. Rant over sorry guys.


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Always something!!! I have had to learn to go into a project knowing something isn't going to go right. I'm not the most patient person so when stuff like that happens it makes my blood boil. My Whipple install had one issue after another. Missing parts, They don't sell the catch-can anymore so I had to make up a bracket so I could mount my existing one just to name a couple... But I planned for it and expected it. It's always an adventure!
 

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@FreddyG. All together I have about 10-15 hours into these. I was supper slow doing it. Now that I’ve done my first set I’m sure I can do it faster and more than likely better. I used 3 bits, Carbide for the major work on reshaping the ports, grinding stone to smooth out all of the uneven area’s and then the 80 & 100 grit sanding disc from Eastwood’s head porting kits. This was to ensure most of the imperfects were taken out. I also used them on the short radius turns from the valves. I didn’t want to remove any material there because I was scared. No lies with me. I don’t want to screw this deal up. So I’m being extra cautious.


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Cautious is good, so is fear because that can make you careful. The key to that is to take a little off and then clean it (air to blow away the shavings mostly, but brake clean works too because it evaporates quickly) and then grind some more. It's better to go into it having a plan too rather than just turning your grinder loose. I'm not a head porter, but was a Nuclear Certified Welder for 15 years, so I do know a bit about grinding (mostly pipes and valves, but grinding heads would be applicable too). :)

You did a Great job for your first time porting. As you build a comfort level, you'll get quicker and more efficient at porting. Basically, if you're nervous about the short radius turns near the valves, always try to use the flapper wheels because they don't take off much material and just get rid of rough casting flash to smooth out the flow.

You should be Proud of yourself!

By the way, Sorry to hear about the main stud nut. It's got to be disappointing especially once you're motivated and ready to go!
 

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Discussion Starter #104 (Edited)
Thanks bro. I went to the machine shop this morning expecting a bit of a battle but they were super nice and grabbed the nut right away. They didn’t even ask to see the pictures I had prepared to prove I was being truthful. Honestly it was one of the easiest hassle free exchanges ever. I will certainly be doing business with these guys again. Very helpful and honest folks.


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Discussion Starter #105 (Edited)
Soooo I had an interesting night. Spent about 5 hrs grinding a bolt that broke on the side main cap. Finally got it out and decided, the combustion chambers could use some polishing. Thanks for reposting the video. So now I’m like 10hours into working on the heads again. That said I have the crank finally torqued down and all clearances checked. Tomorrow starts the file fitting of the rings.


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I think now is the time if you're going to do it. Less likely to get the urge to pull them off later to have a go

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Soooo I had an interesting night. Spent about 5 hrs grinding a bolt that broke on the side main cap. Finally got it out and decided, the combustion chambers could use some polishing. Thanks for reposting the video. So. Ow I’m like 10hours into working on the heads again. That said I have the crank finally torques down and all clearances checked. Tomorrow starts the file fitting of the rings.


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If you use the heavy grit flapper wheel first and then go down to the lightest grade of wheel, you won't take off much material. I'd concentrate on the bends in the runners right where it starts going into the valve pockets. Just my opinion though.

What are you setting your ring gaps at and which brand/type of rings are you using? Do you have a ring filer that you're using?

Here's a Great article that talks about rings and filing/settings:

Great piston ring article.............

Sorry to hear about the bolt too.
 

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Discussion Starter #108 (Edited)
If you use the heavy grit flapper wheel first and then go down to the lightest grade of wheel, you won't take off much material. I'd concentrate on the bends in the runners right where it starts going into the valve pockets. Just my opinion though.

What are you setting your ring gaps at and which brand/type of rings are you using? Do you have a ring filer that you're using?

Here's a Great article that talks about rings and filing/settings:

Great piston ring article.............

Sorry to hear about the bolt too.
Thanks for the advice. I’ll make sure I pay close attention to the turns on the intake side and the combustion chambers so I can make it more difficult for the carbon to build Up.


As for the rings they came with the pistons so I’m not sure what brand they are. I can tell you that they are a 1.2mm 1.2mm 3 mm design. With that said I plan on gapping the rings to .029 top ring and .030 second ring. The Machine shop told me a general rule of thumb is .007*bore size. In my case that is 4.09*.007 which is around .025. Also yes I have a manual ring filer. I will be investing in an electric one though as I still have 3 more engines to rebuild. That article is amazing. I didn’t realize that I needed to file the rings counter clockwise. After reading the article, it makes sense to do it that way.
After this deal is done. I have to stroke the Eagle 5.7 that’s in the car now, and I have a Pre-Eagle motor that I want to put together for my Dakota drag truck. So I’ll be building motors most of this year. Oh and I was able to get the bolt out of the main and reuse 2 of the factory cross bolts so I’m good again. Lucky me.

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Thanks for the advice. I’ll make sure I pay close attention to the turns on the intake side and the combustion chambers so I can make it more difficult for the carbon to build Up.


As for the rings they came with the pistons so I’m not sure what brand they are. I can tell you that they are a 1.2mm 1.2mm 3 mm design. With that said I plan on gapping the rings to .029 top ring and .030 second ring. The Machine shop told me a general rule of thumb is .007*bore size. In my case that is 4.09*.007 which is around .025. Also yes I have a manual ring filer. I will be investing in an electric one though as I still have two more engines to rebuild. That article is amazing. I didn’t realize that I needed to file the rings counter clockwise. After reading the article, it makes sense to do it that way.
After this deal is done. I have to stroke the Eagle 5.7 that’s in the car now, and I have a Pre-Eagle motor that I want to put together for my Dakota drag truck. So I’ll be building motors most of this year. Oh and I was able to get the bolt out of the main and reuse 2 of the factory cross bolts so I’m good again. Lucky me.

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It sounds like you're going to be busy the rest of this year!
 

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Discussion Starter #110 (Edited)
IMG_3039.jpg

Here’s a quick side by side of 6.4 factory pistons vs the custom DSS setup with Manley rods. Pay close attention to the top ring locations & the size difference between the rod setups. It’s amazing to see how much lighter the custom setup is as well


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Discussion Starter #111
IMG_3038.jpg

Here is what I was able to record for factory piston weight.


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Discussion Starter #112 (Edited)
IMG_3037.jpg

Here is my forged piston and rod setup weights. As you can see these are a little more than 50 grams lighter which is why balancing was necessary. Also these should grab RPM much quicker which is what I want/need for a turbo stick car. More to come


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Discussion Starter #113 (Edited)
Side note I still have not file fit the rings. Parental/Husband/duties & lack of motivation has plagued me these last few weeks. I’m hoping to get back on my grind once the cam arrives. Whenever that is.


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Here’s a quick side by side of 6.4 factory pistons vs the custom DSS setup with Manley rods. Pay close attention to the top ring locations & the size difference between the rod setups. It’s amazing to see how much lighter the custom setup is as well


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Looks like your new crank has larger journals too? And the pin boss looks reinforced, won't pull the pin out of the piston. Seen pictures of the pin pulling the bottom of the piston off at high RPMs.
 

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Discussion Starter #115
My New Crank is the Stock Forged 6.4 unit but just with some material taken out to match the new Bob weights from this Piston Rod combo.


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Discussion Starter #116
What’s up guys just wanted to share a lesson learned. For anyone out there that is attempting to do a build like this please be careful when you attempting to buy custom cams off line. I say this because I found a grind from comp that I really liked and thought I would look for the part number and buy it. I found the part number 201-000-17, well it turns out that this P/N means it’s custom and the grind could be anything. My cam arrived on Monday and my excitement turned to disbelief when I saw the cam specs. I was able to return the cam to the manufacture for a refund and comp has pointed in the direction of their Stage 2 Turbo Cam. But please be aware that Part Numbers don’t always tell the story when purchasing cams. Hope this helps someone in the future.


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Discussion Starter #117 (Edited)
So not much progress this weekend but I did manage to get my cheap EBay tig welder up and running. With a little practice I should be able to fab up my turbo piping. More to come.


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So not much progress this weekend but I did manage to get my cheap EBay rig welder up and running. With a little practice I should be able to fab up my turbo piping. More to come.


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Did you get a MIG or a TIG welder?
 

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It’s a tig. I have an amazing Lincoln that I’ve used for years.


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Lincoln's are nice welders. They are workhorses and last forever.

I was a Nuclear Certified welder for 15 years and we had Miller's for GTAW (TIG) and some Lincoln SMAW (Stick) machines that seemed like they were 100 years old, but worked better than the new machines.

I'm looking forward to seeing your progress and Appreciate that you keep us updated. I'm also satisfying my modding addiction through your build! It's considerably cheaper for me and my Wife doesn't get mad at me for spending too much time in the garage! :D

Thanks for that! :)
 
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