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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So an odd thing happened today when I was sitting in traffic. My car is a 2019 6 speed scat pack.

I was sitting in traffic and had just stopped, it was a red light ahead and had just turned red so I put the car in neutral and let my foot off the clutch. Then when I went to put it in first to move forward first gear started grinding. So I put it back in neutral and then back into first no grinding. This happened a total of 3 times. Never was able get enough speed to shift into second, then I made it through the red light and was able to shift into second. And kept driving for a few more minutes I stopped at a stop sign and went into first perfectly fine no grinding. Rest of the day driving, no grinding.

I am 110% sure I had the clutch pushed in all the way every time it happened.

Any idea what could’ve happened?
 

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2020 Dodge Challenger Hellraisin Scat Pack
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So an odd thing happened today when I was sitting in traffic. My car is a 2019 6 speed scat pack.

I was sitting in traffic and had just stopped, it was a red light ahead and had just turned red so I put the car in neutral and let my foot off the clutch. Then when I went to put it in first to move forward first gear started grinding. So I put it back in neutral and then back into first no grinding. This happened a total of 3 times. Never was able get enough speed to shift into second, then I made it through the red light and was able to shift into second. And kept driving for a few more minutes I stopped at a stop sign and went into first perfectly fine no grinding. Rest of the day driving, no grinding.

I am 110% sure I had the clutch pushed in all the way every time it happened.

Any idea what could’ve happened?

Couple of ideas. First is -- and I don't think this is the case just throwing the possibility out there -- and that is there is a problem with the clutch hardware and the clutch is not fully disengaging.

This can be caused by several things. One thing is with another car in which the clutch hydraulic system shared fluid with the brake system something similar happened and every time I went to shift into 1st and often when shifting from a lower gear to a higher gear or even down a gear the shift action was not smooth as it had been. Also take offs from a stop were not nearly as smooth as they were previously.

Long story short I had allowed the car to go too long -- 2.5 years rather than 2 years -- past the time to flush/bleed the brake and clutch hydraulic systems. These two systems shared fluid.

Afterwards believe it or not the transformation was remarkable. Before this I always, or at least intended to always, have the brake/clutch hydraulic systems flushed/bled on schedule but I doubted the necessity. After this experience I became a firm believer in periodic/regular brake system, and if the clutch hydraulic system uses a fluid similar to brake fluid, the clutch hydraulic system flushed/bled every so often. Every 2 years I think. In the case of brake fluid it is not the miles just the exposure to air that drives this flush/bleed necessity. The brake fluid reservoir is vented to atmosphere and "breathes" this air in and out and in the process has the opportunity to absorb moisture from the air.

I mention the above just in case. I am not familiar with the manual transmission equipped versions of these cars and I do not know what fluid is used in the clutch nor what its flush/bleed schedule -- if any -- is. But you should know.

Granted even if you car has a clutch hydraulic system that could benefit from a flush/bleed the car is not old enough to possibly warrant this service, but I'd consider doing it, or having it done, for just in case. You do not want to tear into the clutch hardware/transmission is all that is "wrong" is the fluid is past its change by date.

Another explanation is there is something wrong with the clutch hydraulic system. If a flush/bleed is possible consider having this done just in case the system was not done properly during manufacturer.

If was done properly there might be a component failure -- a slave cylinder/piston is leaking and when you push the pedal down the clutch is not fully disengaged or it is but quickly due to a fluid leak slightly engages.

More likely the behavior is just normal. I had one car that was very consistently hard to shift into 1st gear from neutral. My work around was to shift into 2nd and in some cases just let the clutch out just a tiny bit then push the clutch in and shift from 2nd to 1st. The shift was like a knife through butter and this worked very well for around 150K miles at which time I sold the car.


Might add this was with a car equipped with an engine that produced just 215hp and around 300 ft lbs of torque.


In the case of your car and the engine's prodigious output, by necessity the transmission is very robust, which means among other things the transmission hardware is massive relatively speaking. In neutral with the clutch engaged the input shaft of the transmission is spinning. When you depress the clutch the shaft can continue to spin. When you the shift into gear the gears can "grind". You might experiment and see if shifting into say 2nd gear -- and not even bothering to let the clutch out even a bit -- then shifting from 2nd to 1st helps. 'course, if 2nd gear "grinds"... that's not a suitable trade off.

Since the car is new and under warranty you might want to just take the car in and demo the behavior and let a tech offer his opinion. He should know all of the above, that is applicable, and then some, and offer what could be wrong: Operator error (not saying this is the case just saying it has to be considered) or maybe a fluid flush/bleed is called for or there is another deeper reason for the behavior.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Couple of ideas. First is -- and I don't think this is the case just throwing the possibility out there -- and that is there is a problem with the clutch hardware and the clutch is not fully disengaging.

This can be caused by several things. One thing is with another car in which the clutch hydraulic system shared fluid with the brake system something similar happened and every time I went to shift into 1st and often when shifting from a lower gear to a higher gear or even down a gear the shift action was not smooth as it had been. Also take offs from a stop were not nearly as smooth as they were previously.

Long story short I had allowed the car to go too long -- 2.5 years rather than 2 years -- past the time to flush/bleed the brake and clutch hydraulic systems. These two systems shared fluid.

Afterwards believe it or not the transformation was remarkable. Before this I always, or at least intended to always, have the brake/clutch hydraulic systems flushed/bled on schedule but I doubted the necessity. After this experience I became a firm believer in periodic/regular brake system, and if the clutch hydraulic system uses a fluid similar to brake fluid, the clutch hydraulic system flushed/bled every so often. Every 2 years I think. In the case of brake fluid it is not the miles just the exposure to air that drives this flush/bleed necessity. The brake fluid reservoir is vented to atmosphere and "breathes" this air in and out and in the process has the opportunity to absorb moisture from the air.

I mention the above just in case. I am not familiar with the manual transmission equipped versions of these cars and I do not know what fluid is used in the clutch nor what its flush/bleed schedule -- if any -- is. But you should know.

Granted even if you car has a clutch hydraulic system that could benefit from a flush/bleed the car is not old enough to possibly warrant this service, but I'd consider doing it, or having it done, for just in case. You do not want to tear into the clutch hardware/transmission is all that is "wrong" is the fluid is past its change by date.

Another explanation is there is something wrong with the clutch hydraulic system. If a flush/bleed is possible consider having this done just in case the system was not done properly during manufacturer.

If was done properly there might be a component failure -- a slave cylinder/piston is leaking and when you push the pedal down the clutch is not fully disengaged or it is but quickly due to a fluid leak slightly engages.

More likely the behavior is just normal. I had one car that was very consistently hard to shift into 1st gear from neutral. My work around was to shift into 2nd and in some cases just let the clutch out just a tiny bit then push the clutch in and shift from 2nd to 1st. The shift was like a knife through butter and this worked very well for around 150K miles at which time I sold the car.


Might add this was with a car equipped with an engine that produced just 215hp and around 300 ft lbs of torque.


In the case of your car and the engine's prodigious output, by necessity the transmission is very robust, which means among other things the transmission hardware is massive relatively speaking. In neutral with the clutch engaged the input shaft of the transmission is spinning. When you depress the clutch the shaft can continue to spin. When you the shift into gear the gears can "grind". You might experiment and see if shifting into say 2nd gear -- and not even bothering to let the clutch out even a bit -- then shifting from 2nd to 1st helps. 'course, if 2nd gear "grinds"... that's not a suitable trade off.

Since the car is new and under warranty you might want to just take the car in and demo the behavior and let a tech offer his opinion. He should know all of the above, that is applicable, and then some, and offer what could be wrong: Operator error (not saying this is the case just saying it has to be considered) or maybe a fluid flush/bleed is called for or there is another deeper reason for the behavior.
Thanks. I had the intention of getting the brake fluid changed at the next service, about 3000 more miles at 15k now. I don’t think there is anything wrong with the clutch hardware as it shifts perfectly fine at every point except for yesterday. I don’t sit in traffic much with the car, it is my daily but there really isn’t much traffic on my normal drives.

Makes sense that if I move forward slightly the input shafts spins, then as I creep forward with the car in neutral by nature the input shaft will start to spin, then I’m trying to put it in gear with the trans spinning, even just ever so slightly. I think operator error may be the case here. Still going to get the fluid changed as the car is nearing the 2 year mark on this fluid.
 
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