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Discussion Starter #1
Just changed the oil for the first time in my 2014. Manual says 7 quarts... 7 quarts got me right above add. I let the car sit for a while, then went back and topped it off. I waited about an hour, and checked it again in the garage (which is level...). Right on the top dot.

That's a lot of oil!!!!
 

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same thing here! Mine is a 2012 R/T, I top of the filter and it always takes 7.5 plus. Some people say theirs only take 6.5 quarts. Been putting 7.5 in since new
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Well.... It's good to know I'm not alone. Changing the oil has also motivated me to run more, and eat bird food. I used ramps, and it was kinda tight... My last car was a 2012 Grand Cherokee... Maybe I shouldn't have gotten the super track pack. That would have given me 1.5 more inches of breathing room!

....on second thought. My four year old is much smaller than I am. He should have no problem getting under there! (joking. do not call child welfare.)
 

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Ya'll must have bad sticks!!! Mine takes exactly 7 qt. to get to the full mark.
 

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If you put in more than the factory spec 7 quarts, you've overfilled the sump, no matter what the dipstick reads. Chrysler products, particularly Jeeps are know for inaccurate dipstick readings.
Oil aeration/foaming in a Hemi engine is not pretty.
 
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Discussion Starter #9
Chrysler puts 7.5 in at the factory and at dealer servicings. I feel better. Still a lot of oil.

Harbor,
Enjoy that 3.6L. I had it in my '12 Grand Cherokee. I loved the oil filter element on the top of the engine. Oil changes were heaven. I can tell you I had no oil foaming in any of the 6 jeeps I've owned. You should be safe!
 

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Not sure who told you the factory and dealer fills are 7.5 quarts, the mfr spec is 7 quarts including filter.

After draining and adding 7 quarts, run the engine and check for leaks, then shut it down. Check the level after a couple of minutes. The level on your dipstick is YOUR "full" level.

When you let it sit overnight and check again the level will be a bit higher. Do not use the dipstick to judge when it's full, they are notoriously inaccurate (Some tubes not fully inserted into the block). :)
 
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Thanks. I never knew. One can only imagine what the cost of that would be? Had to sell a kidney for the ramps and extenders. Lol
$49 for the mat. Might be less on Amazon.
 

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Those race ramps are UNBEATABLE in every way. You get what you pay for. I have cheap plastic ones in the shed. They move and there are no extenders and they are not as wide.

Haven't had any issues after using it like 6 times. Rated up to 12k lbs. put my suburban on the first time and the thing didn't even move. No issues with the width either. Don't know why you'd need extenders. Put the challenger up a couple of times as well. Use it mostly for my company fleet. So far so good.
ImageUploadedByAG Free1398998998.469948.jpg


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Haven't had any issues after using it like 6 times. Rated up to 12k lbs. put my suburban on the first time and the thing didn't even move. No issues with the width either. Don't know why you'd need extenders. Put the challenger up a couple of times as well. Use it mostly for my company fleet. So far so good.
View attachment 207898


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A nice, smooth approach bro. Nice angle and slow to go up ensures it goes up easy without problems. Those are the rhino ramps I have for my former truck. Used once, never cared for ramps. I don't want to jack my Challenger so I bought the best ramps for the job.
 

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I use Race Ramps, they seem to be very well made and give enough clearance for most maintenance tasks

The pic is from when I installed the Solo Mach X

And, 7qts puts me at the full line, that's after sitting overnight on a flat surface ImageUploadedByAutoGuide1399051251.592145.jpg


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