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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
So I’m going down the freeway and get a glimpse of something black flapping on my hood. I’m thinking I must have caught something on the nose of the car while on the freeway so I stop to remove it and discover it’s part of what looks like a thin rubber gasket that lays just under and in front of the hood. The area that bends under the hood it starting to tear and come loose all the way across the front of the hood.

I call the dealer and they want $272 to repair.

I ordered my car from the factory in 2016 and so four years and 67,000 miles later this it the very first thing that has needed repair.

I love this car.....

So is this something I can easily repair myself by buying the part and replacing it myself or is it best to just take it to the dealer?

Thanks everyone for your help.

Update, sorry everyone I just did a quick search and found out that this is a common problem. That’s what I get for not keeping up on the forum....


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The Bacon Hauler (‘12 Cop Charger)
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At 67K miles, you got about 10x more miles from yours than I got on my 2011’s when it was new.

My 2010’s was already gone by the time I got that car.

Those rubber strips never stick around long, and won’t hurt anything once gone. I say forget about replacing it, the replacement may not even last as long as the original.
 

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2011 R/T 6M Bright White, 590whp 490wtq, Whipple 10psi, 274 cam, 1 7/8 LT headers, 429 gears
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So I’m going down the freeway and get a glimpse of something black flapping on my hood. I’m thinking I must have caught something on the nose of the car while on the freeway so I stop to remove it and discover it’s part of what looks like a thin rubber gasket that lays just under and in front of the hood. The area that bends under the hood it starting to tear and come loose all the way across the front of the hood.

I call the dealer and they want $272 to repair.

I ordered my car from the factory in 2016 and so four years and 67,000 miles later this it the very first thing that has needed repair.

I love this car.....

So is this something I can easily repair myself by buying the part and replacing it myself or is it best to just take it to the dealer?

Thanks everyone for your help.

Update, sorry everyone I just did a quick search and found out that this is a common problem. That’s what I get for not keeping up on the forum....


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Easy to fix but you will need a plastic rivet gun and of course rivets.

I don't get why they would charge you $272. It should be billed as a 30 minute job and the part is ~$60
 

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2011 SXT
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Earlier Post on this just a short time ago and Parts and even a DIY make your own

$24.95 for the Seal and Rivets. Then you can get the Rivet Gun and Rivets at Harbor Freight Cheap...

OR With The Rivet Gun and Rivets included for $39.95

The DIY Method id go with the Easier Kit posted above but no biggie either way do it yourself either way.
 

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2020 Dodge Challenger Scat Pack Wide body A8 in Go Mango
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Same happened to my 2012 SXT somewhere around 30k miles. I just removed it. Never gave me any issues.
 
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I'm on my second one in 5 years. The last one I replaced seams to be the longest lasting (2+ years) and still looks good. When it comes time to replace I'm going to do it with the garage door seal rubber to see how long that last compared to OEM.
 

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I did my friends for him, just drill out the rivet pin and push in the rest to straight it out and then it easily pulls out. The rivet gun from harbor freight works great. If you listed where you’re from maybe someone with experience would be willing to help you out. I was done in under 30 minutes and that was taking my time.
 

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2016 Challenger R/T Plus Shaker
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I used to drill out the rivets, but now I cut them off with a wood chisel. One of the tricks I came up with working in the dealership. It does require caution, but I am cautious with all customer's cars.
 

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I used to drill out the rivets, but now I cut them off with a wood chisel. One of the tricks I came up with working in the dealership. It does require caution, but I am cautious with all customer's cars.
Id Drill personally not a big deal and less chance of damage IMHO...............
 

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I'm on my second one in 5 years. The last one I replaced seams to be the longest lasting (2+ years) and still looks good. When it comes time to replace I'm going to do it with the garage door seal rubber to see how long that last compared to OEM.
If you want the seal to last, install a 2 1/4" garage door weatherstripping. It's angled and will allow it to be attached below the plastic retainer, as well as on it using 3M double- sided tape. The rubber is made to withstand constant exposure to the elements as well as weight resting on it. Check out the DIY link that Wm Internet Rock DJ posted above.
 

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I used to drill out the rivets, but now I cut them off with a wood chisel. One of the tricks I came up with working in the dealership. It does require caution, but I am cautious with all customer's cars.
My other friend is an engineer and his method on his car was to take a nail of correct thickness and hold it in a set of vise grips and the get that nail red hot with a mapp gas torch then push into the pin melting it out of the hole. It worked great but I prefer the drill.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I did my friends for him, just drill out the rivet pin and push in the rest to straight it out and then it easily pulls out. The rivet gun from harbor freight works great. If you listed where you’re from maybe someone with experience would be willing to help you out. I was done in under 30 minutes and that was taking my time.
Interesting. I asked the dealer how long I’d have to wait for it and was told 3 hours.

I live in the Southern CA area.


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The Dealers go by a Time Guide to do any work that gives an EST of time to do any work doesn't mean it's that long or hard its what they will charge for Shop time plus the part.
That's a do it your self or get a friend who's willing to help come over and help. I'm getting ready to do mine because a local shop forgot to put mine back on when they removed the Fascia to change the Grille and Busted Headlight Assembly. They forgot to put it back and its not anything I was upset about but here sometimes a few leaves find their way into that area when we get a breeze.
 

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$272 is a complete rip off even at dealer shop rates. If you don't want to do it yourself, take it to any competent body shop and have it done.

That's a parts + $25-$30 in labor, (about a half hour billed labor, but the tech will likely have it done in under 10 minutes)

I'm betting the dealer is also charging about $5 for each plastic rivet.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I called another dealership just to confirm and he’s giving me the same price so the price isn’t something that they are trying to gouge me on. It’s just the standard price for having it done at the dealer. That is amazing. It cost $40 to buy a complete kit to do it yourself and the dealer wants $272. That’s a huge price difference. Is there any trick in drilling out the rivets?

Or is there anything with the whole procedure that takes a level of finesse? I love my car and will spend top dollar to keep it in the best shape it can be but I don’t want to throw money away.

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