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Hello Guys just bought a SRT8 that was salvaged due to flood damage (only way i could afford it) and it has a few electrical problems. The rear fuse box had tons of corrosion so i replaced all of the battery and fuses, though not the relays. The car runs and drives, but there are several fuses that i am not getting any power too that seem to be critical to the overall performance, not to mention conveniences like power seats, AC, headlights (none of these are working). I did clean the fuse slots with some spray from O'Reillys and used some dy-electric grease when i replaced the new fuses. Should i replace the relays, could this be the problem? Here are the fuses i am getting no power reading from:

Front Fuse box (engine compartment): 4, 5, 6

Rear Fuse box: 18, 27, 29, 35, 37, 39, 40, 41

I know this is a lot of circuits and a big ask, truly hoping something like a relay is the key. Any and all help/suggestions welcomed!
 

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you have canbus, Body Control Module, and the rear power module along with the TIPM (this is the large power module in engine bay).

There's various connectors that run along the floor of the car for the seats, airbags, seatbelts (and the selt belt retracters that fire off).

Depending on how deep the water was and what it got to could also impact what was damaged. The IP cluster also communicates with the canbus that everything else interfaces with.

So you could have a dead control module or wire harnesses that are corroded.

It will take a lot of work to trace out what's damaged or what other modules might be damaged - either by water/corrosion or when voltage was applied and other parts of the circuit were shorted or open and might have damaged something else downstream.

You also have the HVAC head unit as well. Another possibility is that ground points are compromised by corrosion as well.

What year is the car? '08-'10, '11-14 or '15 to newer? There were differences in the electrical systems in those years as well.

What you're going through is why vehicles get totaled in floods - there's so many areas that water contamination or corrosion can occur and trying to trace it out is a lot of work.

The harnesses can be replaced outright, but they cost money - trying to remove it from a wrecked car is one approach, but a lot of work and have to completely tear down the interior to get to everything.
 

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I'm looking forward to hearing about your experience with your flooded SRT8. I just bought a flooded 2009 SRT8 myself. Thus far it runs and drives good. Minor issues such as the power seat motor and it needs one power window motor, but overall it's okay. Any idea how deep the water got in yours?
 

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OK, you have several dead circuits.
You know the vehicle was submerged.
You probably will need a factory service manual with the complete and accurate schematics. If not now then in the future. (I know, they are expensive)

1) Clean all connectors you can get to easily. Clean all the connectors that are hard to get to. This is free and will stop the majority of the corrosion that starts at the connectors. This includes Computer connectors. Use a good spray contact cleaner.

2) Replace ALL relays. They are relatively cheap and the smallest amount of dirt in between the contacts will stop them from flowing current. They should be pulled in step #1 anyway. This will be 'cheap' insurance. Would really stink if the starter solenoid relay stops at a critical time right?
 

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Ran the USN corrosion control lab at North Island in the 80's

If it got wet, and I have to assume the battery was connected, replace it. You will never "clean" it up. Fuse boxes, everything. If you don't replace any wiring that was under water, you will have problems in the future also. It's only a matter of time. There IS water IN the wires. It wicked right up under the insulation. If you could bake the entire car in a low humidity chamber...you still won't correct the corrosion that has already started.

Sorry, but it's going to cost a bunch. IF you can do all the work yourself, and IF you can rob from wrecks you will probably still save a butt load of money.

LV

Hello Guys just bought a SRT8 that was salvaged due to flood damage (only way i could afford it) and it has a few electrical problems. The rear fuse box had tons of corrosion so i replaced all of the battery and fuses, though not the relays. The car runs and drives, but there are several fuses that i am not getting any power too that seem to be critical to the overall performance, not to mention conveniences like power seats, AC, headlights (none of these are working). I did clean the fuse slots with some spray from O'Reillys and used some dy-electric grease when i replaced the new fuses. Should i replace the relays, could this be the problem? Here are the fuses i am getting no power reading from:

Front Fuse box (engine compartment): 4, 5, 6

Rear Fuse box: 18, 27, 29, 35, 37, 39, 40, 41

I know this is a lot of circuits and a big ask, truly hoping something like a relay is the key. Any and all help/suggestions welcomed!
 

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Discussion Starter #6
you have canbus, Body Control Module, and the rear power module along with the TIPM (this is the large power module in engine bay).

There's various connectors that run along the floor of the car for the seats, airbags, seatbelts (and the selt belt retracters that fire off).

Depending on how deep the water was and what it got to could also impact what was damaged. The IP cluster also communicates with the canbus that everything else interfaces with.

So you could have a dead control module or wire harnesses that are corroded.

It will take a lot of work to trace out what's damaged or what other modules might be damaged - either by water/corrosion or when voltage was applied and other parts of the circuit were shorted or open and might have damaged something else downstream.

You also have the HVAC head unit as well. Another possibility is that ground points are compromised by corrosion as well.

What year is the car? '08-'10, '11-14 or '15 to newer? There were differences in the electrical systems in those years as well.

What you're going through is why vehicles get totaled in floods - there's so many areas that water contamination or corrosion can occur and trying to trace it out is a lot of work.

The harnesses can be replaced outright, but they cost money - trying to remove it from a wrecked car is one approach, but a lot of work and have to completely tear down the interior to get to everything.
Thanks, i will take out the seats and carpet and take a look there. what i really want to understand is with what i know is not working, can the vehicle be operated? I drove the car and it seems fine, just want to make sure that these issues are seeing are or are not a critical system to the performance of the car. If so, i would like to start there and can deal with the accessories as i go from there. thanks for your input
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I'm looking forward to hearing about your experience with your flooded SRT8. I just bought a flooded 2009 SRT8 myself. Thus far it runs and drives good. Minor issues such as the power seat motor and it needs one power window motor, but overall it's okay. Any idea how deep the water got in yours?
not sure how high the water got, there is no evidence of water really in the interior. so far i got no power seat, headlights took on water so i need to see if they are getting power as they will not come on, but thats the only noticeable damage
 

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Discussion Starter #8
OK, you have several dead circuits.
You know the vehicle was submerged.
You probably will need a factory service manual with the complete and accurate schematics. If not now then in the future. (I know, they are expensive)

1) Clean all connectors you can get to easily. Clean all the connectors that are hard to get to. This is free and will stop the majority of the corrosion that starts at the connectors. This includes Computer connectors. Use a good spray contact cleaner.

2) Replace ALL relays. They are relatively cheap and the smallest amount of dirt in between the contacts will stop them from flowing current. They should be pulled in step #1 anyway. This will be 'cheap' insurance. Would really stink if the starter solenoid relay stops at a critical time right?
regarding the service manual, i think i saw somewhere that they wiring diagram is not included but only available for download, is that correct?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
....obviously as you see by the time of this post, i cannot sleep. It seems there are a couple critical items as of now that i want to jump on (#4, 5, 6 front fuse box and 29, 37 of the rear). i am using a wire tester to see if these fuses are getting power, will some of these only activate once the key is on? Should i turn the key to "Run" and see if that makes a difference? My auto electric skills never made it past my VW days. Thanks again for all of the help.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
sort of answered my previous question as i wrote and got to run my test again this morning for the rear fuse box, the only one without power is #39 which seems to be for the heated mirrors??? ( i can definitely do without). have a work meeting this morning so didnt get a chance to check the front fuse box and re-test with the key on. I am feeling much better about the situation, but will still remove the interior and clean all electrical components and protect them from further corrosion (at least slow it down).

As for the AC, the indicator lights on the knob function when selected but no action from the vents?? My active suspension warning is on as is the park assist, so i need to figure out how all of this comes together.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
** quick update*** fuses 4, 5, 6 in front fuse box all good. So just one fuse with no power, a couple warnings, and a few accessories not working (...thus far).
 

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Flooded with what? If it was salt or brackish water forget it. I just rewired my mast and some idiot didn't used marine grade wire, which is tinned. Black corrosion was visible a foot up from the wire ends and when I tried to use it to pull new wire through the mast even the insulation pulled apart in my hands like it was a hundred years old.

My advice is to get a manual and talk to a flood restoration expert. They can likely tell you how wet your car was, if you don't have any idea. Then plan on going the junkyard route and replacing everything critical. Even then, a few years down the road you might have unforeseen failures.

Just my 2C.

Bob
 

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OP, best of luck with this.


When my sweetheart got flooded (water up to the seat bottoms) I was very upset, but prayed that it would get totaled. It did, and waved a goodbye to it.


Way more electrical problems than I wanted to handle, so I didn't even consider keeping it, at any price. Not to mention, future guaranteed rust issues.


Again, best of luck with this project.
 

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Thanks everyone for the feedback. FYI, i clearly understood the risk when i made the purchase always anticipated some work to be done. With that said, what i am looking for is best practices, personal experiences or technical expertise if any about what i should be working on. For the price i paid i am absolutely ok with the car lasting only a few years, i just want to be able to operate it safely in the meantime. Any optimistic mechanics out there?
 

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Isaac, I was told during my "inspection" and damage estimate, that if water touched it (wiring and any electrical components), then it needed to be replaced.


After that, see what and if any electrical issues come up. Mine was a "no start/no power" after the flood.


You really need to find out how high the water level was to evaluate more potential issues
 

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not sure how high the water got, there is no evidence of water really in the interior. so far i got no power seat, headlights took on water so i need to see if they are getting power as they will not come on, but thats the only noticeable damage
if the front end was submerged that deep (to headlights) - your harnesses for the lights and probably the front shocks (you have an SRT with the ADS Bilsteins) which have electrical harnesses and potentially the ABS pump, which is behind the pass side headlight area. You also have the front ABS sensors and don't know if the rears were affected as well.

Transmission harness is another matter - especially if an automatic.

Alternator is down low enough that it may have been submerged in water as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
if the front end was submerged that deep (to headlights) - your harnesses for the lights and probably the front shocks (you have an SRT with the ADS Bilsteins) which have electrical harnesses and potentially the ABS pump, which is behind the pass side headlight area. You also have the front ABS sensors and don't know if the rears were affected as well.

Transmission harness is another matter - especially if an automatic.

Alternator is down low enough that it may have been submerged in water as well.
good info, thanks
 

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I can confirm that the factory service manual only comes on CD (unless you are a Dodge dealer) and you must use IE to use it. No other browser works. Also the wiring diagrams are NOT included and are not available to users. If you do find wiring diagrams please let me know from where.
 

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In addition as some have said, it is important to find out what kind of water was in the car. Fresh water - clean all your connections and look for corrosion. Also change all relays. Salt water - get another wiring harness, new relays, and all power distribution boxes and connectors. Pay careful attention to your airbag and airbag connections. You do not want them to activate at an inopportune time.
 
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