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Discussion Starter #1
I usually unlock and hold on the remote to roll the windows down as I'm walking to the car, well the fob started intermittently not working until i was right up next to the car.
I replaced the battery and still no bueno.
Anyone had to replace their fob before? Where do I get a replacement?
I'm thinking maybe the transmitter in the fob is going dead after 7 years?
 

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Did you get it wet? new battery helped mine so ive bot gotten very far into this issue

Sent from my LG-H910 using Tapatalk
 

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Mine is acting up. I am watching for solution.
Tom.
 

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The Bacon Hauler (‘12 Cop Charger)
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Both of mine have fallen victim to what you're talking about, and if it's the same thing, you're SOL (for the most part).

Do this: pop it open like you're going to change the battery, and then pull out the circuit board and separate it from the rubber cover, so that it looks like this:

WP_20170713_16_27_19_Pro.jpg

See those things I've circled in red? You will likely have one or more of those that have worked their way out of line with the circuits on the corresponding board.

Now you can reallign them and try to glue them back into place, but that's a temporary fix at best...and it may not even work that well.

In any event, that's most likely what your problem is, and unfortunately, the only true fix is another FOB.
 

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My fob, since brand new, has never worked more than 15 feet away from my car. I don't have any intermittent issues though, it just doesn't do anything until you get within 15 feet roughly. I kind of like that the fob doesn't work from afar, if someone steals my keys they'll never find my car unless they walk up to every single Dodge lol.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
so still not working after cleaning and battery change.
I think i will most likely order another fob and try the programming trick, since the other 2 fobs still start & run the car.
I found a shop not far that will program them for less than the dealer.
more to follow.
 

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I dove in the snow awhile back and got my key wet. After landing back in Austin I figured out that I was having a similar issue. However, I just replaced my battery and gave it a good cleaning and everything was fine.

has your dash popping up an RKE issue? Have you tried pulling codes to see if its an electrical issue vs your fob?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I just ordered a replacement fob cover from amazon for $10.
After reading a lot of customer problems, it seems the bulk of them are due to the rubber contact pieces coming loose.
This piece will replace the buttons, cover, and back - everything except the board.
Since the vehicle starts & stays running with the fob, the board transponder is still functioning, but the buttons are not working.

I'll update if this fixes my issue.
 

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The Bacon Hauler (‘12 Cop Charger)
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so still not working after cleaning and battery change.
I think i will most likely order another fob and try the programming trick, since the other 2 fobs still start & run the car.
I found a shop not far that will program them for less than the dealer.
more to follow.
I am very interested to hear how this goes for you, so please remember to update the thread with any thoughts/experiences after you get them and press them into service.

Based on the limited amount of research I did getting one of the aftermarket FOBs to work with my car (2010), the "use 2 working FOBs to program a new FOB" trick does not work for 2010 and newer cars, it's only good for 2009 and older models. So any replacement FOBs will have to be programmed by the dealership or a qualified locksmith evidently.

Also, after reading through many of the reviews available for the aftermarket FOBs, I was not optimistic about any of them being as durable as the original ones for daily use. I got the feeling that they would be fine as a back-up, but for daily use (like I needed), they would likely wear out relatively quickly and slowly stop working like the OE ones.

So while both of my FOBs are basically useless now for their wireless lock/unlock functionality, I haven't replaced them yet due to the potential issues I mentioned above. I am able to get by just locking the doors from the door panel as I exit the vehicle and then unlock it using the actual key from inside the FOB.

One positive aspect of the FOBs losing their wireless functionality is that I no longer accidentally set off the panic alarm just from having the FOB in my pocket and bending over or something. That used to happen to me at least once a month, and it seemed like it was always in the worst possible time, so that's one aspect to this whole mess which I do not mind at all!
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I am very interested to hear how this goes for you, so please remember to update the thread with any thoughts/experiences after you get them and press them into service.

Based on the limited amount of research I did getting one of the aftermarket FOBs to work with my car (2010), the "use 2 working FOBs to program a new FOB" trick does not work for 2010 and newer cars, it's only good for 2009 and older models. So any replacement FOBs will have to be programmed by the dealership or a qualified locksmith evidently.

Also, after reading through many of the reviews available for the aftermarket FOBs, I was not optimistic about any of them being as durable as the original ones for daily use. I got the feeling that they would be fine as a back-up, but for daily use (like I needed), they would likely wear out relatively quickly and slowly stop working like the OE ones.

So while both of my FOBs are basically useless now for their wireless lock/unlock functionality, I haven't replaced them yet due to the potential issues I mentioned above. I am able to get by just locking the doors from the door panel as I exit the vehicle and then unlock it using the actual key from inside the FOB.

One positive aspect of the FOBs losing their wireless functionality is that I no longer accidentally set off the panic alarm just from having the FOB in my pocket and bending over or something. That used to happen to me at least once a month, and it seemed like it was always in the worst possible time, so that's one aspect to this whole mess which I do not mind at all!
Will do, amazon says it will be here tomorrow.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
some news: the dealer wants $164 for a replacement fob.
The won't give me the part number, but I think I have found one that will work on ebay for ~$35.
NEW Keyless Entry Remote Key Fob For a 2010 Dodge Challenger
The same dealer charges a $59 flat rate for programming.
So worst case scenario, I have to pay $60 to the dealer for programming.

And apparently the replacement piece I ordered for $10 is the entire fob, not just a cover...
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01FGUGRO6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1
 

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The Bacon Hauler (‘12 Cop Charger)
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some news: the dealer wants $164 for a replacement fob.
The won't give me the part number, but I think I have found one that will work on ebay for ~$35.
NEW Keyless Entry Remote Key Fob For a 2010 Dodge Challenger
The same dealer charges a $59 flat rate for programming.
So worst case scenario, I have to pay $60 to the dealer for programming.

And apparently the replacement piece I ordered for $10 is the entire fob, not just a cover...
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01FGUGRO6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1
You know, something just occurred to me which might save us both the programming fee(s). If your problem is the same as mine (due to metal buttons dislodging and becoming misaligned), getting the replacement FOBs like you ordered from Amazon might be sufficient to resolve the problem. Just pull the new ones apart and put your current FOB's circuit board into those, and since they have the metal buttons properly aligned and glued in place (they better!), the buttons will now make proper contact with the circuit board (already programmed!), and thus not require being reprogrammed by anyone.

That would be awful nice if that turned out to be the case...but it seems too easy...am I missing something?
 

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Discussion Starter #13
You know, something just occurred to me which might save us both the programming fee(s). If your problem is the same as mine (due to metal buttons dislodging and becoming misaligned), getting the replacement FOBs like you ordered from Amazon might be sufficient to resolve the problem. Just pull the new ones apart and put your current FOB's circuit board into those, and since they have the metal buttons properly aligned and glued in place (they better!), the buttons will now make proper contact with the circuit board (already programmed!), and thus not require being reprogrammed by anyone.

That would be awful nice if that turned out to be the case...but it seems too easy...am I missing something?
At $10 I thought it was just a cover, but I was thinking the same thing.
 

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The Bacon Hauler (‘12 Cop Charger)
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I lost one of mine. My local dealer wanted to rob me of $200 for a new fob, so I wanted to share a link for a cheap oem one. The dealer had me sign a waiver if anything went wrong programming the new fob, since I couldn't "prove" it came from a Mopar dealer.

I do have an issue sometimes where it takes up to 5 seconds for the car to detect the fob with me standing beside it to unlock the door by the handle. But i think that's more of a proximity sensor issue, since the new fob does the same thing.
 

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The Bacon Hauler (‘12 Cop Charger)
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I lost one of mine. My local dealer wanted to rob me of $200 for a new fob, so I wanted to share a link for a cheap oem one. The dealer had me sign a waiver if anything went wrong programming the new fob, since I couldn't "prove" it came from a Mopar dealer.

I do have an issue sometimes where it takes up to 5 seconds for the car to detect the fob with me standing beside it to unlock the door by the handle. But i think that's more of a proximity sensor issue, since the new fob does the same thing.
Well heck, i was kinda hoping you had one slowly crap out like we did, as I was going to ask a favor of you, but since you dont have a 'bad' FOB, you wouldn't be able to grant my boon anyway...



:frown:
 

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Discussion Starter #18
so another +1 on the "no customer programming" feature, I never get the chime or light after step #3.
My 2010 was built in late 2009, but still no go on the key sequence to get into programming mode.
Replacement fob should be here later today so I'll try swapping the guts and see if that does the trick.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Got the new fob yesterday and still no worky.
Tried swapping the innards and still nothing.
I contacted a local shop that was recommended on the racing page I belong to, they said they have the same programming tools as the dealer and have access to the pin number(s) needed to program the fob to the car.
I am going to try and head over there at lunch today and see if they can get the new key working.
The only other problem I can think of is the actual receiver in the car not working...
 

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The Bacon Hauler (‘12 Cop Charger)
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Got the new fob yesterday and still no worky.
Tried swapping the innards and still nothing.
I contacted a local shop that was recommended on the racing page I belong to, they said they have the same programming tools as the dealer and have access to the pin number(s) needed to program the fob to the car.
I am going to try and head over there at lunch today and see if they can get the new key working.
The only other problem I can think of is the actual receiver in the car not working...
Well crap...I can't imagine the BCU or whatever that thing is called has gone bad on you, so I guess the key FOB does have to be programmed to work. Though it just doesn't make much sense that the circuit board couldn't be swapped out...oh well, sometime things just don't make sense I reckon. :disappointed:
 
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