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Discussion Starter #1
I can only hold my foot break RPM for 15-17 seconds before the car shuts down. I can be holding the break peddle and foot feed the gas and hold the RPM at 2000, After 15 seconds the car drops to idle and is unresponsive in attempts to give it more throttle. Off the gas and the car comes back to life. I believe its a "safety" feature not allowing an extended amount of time on the converter. My car is a 2020 1320.

Question for 392 A8 owners. Can anyone see if they can put the car in D and foot brake to 2000 RMP (or 1800) for 40 seconds? I was wondering if the shut down is a 1320 thing or the same for all Scats. Thanks in advance.
 

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I can only hold my foot break RPM for 15-17 seconds before the car shuts down. I can be holding the break peddle and foot feed the gas and hold the RPM at 2000, After 15 seconds the car drops to idle and is unresponsive in attempts to give it more throttle. Off the gas and the car comes back to life. I believe its a "safety" feature not allowing an extended amount of time on the converter. My car is a 2020 1320.

Question for 392 A8 owners. Can anyone see if they can put the car in D and foot brake to 2000 RMP (or 1800) for 40 seconds? I was wondering if the shut down is a 1320 thing or the same for all Scats. Thanks in advance.
HUH? My first question is WHY? NEVER on any car, ever would I even consider doing that. I feel guilty if I did it for 5 seconds. 40 seconds, I'd hate to own the warranty on the transmission.
 

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Yeah, it's called transmission protection.

Don't do that.

Why would you ever do that???!!!
 

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its probably like the prior posts - thermal protection.

brake torqueing the transmission churns the fluid in the torque converter and creates a lot of heat - bad both for the ATF and the internals.

At a drag strip, you'd never hold rpm that long doing brake torqueing
 

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Discussion Starter #5
With all due respect I'm looking for a yes or no answer for anyone willing to do the test for me. If you feel it will damage your car please don't do it.

The answer to why is that in order to cut a line in this car without anticipation the light you have to deep stage. Launch RPM is critical to RT. With auto start and all the timing on the tree you must bring it up to launch rpm before you start your deep stageing process. There is no way that anyone can deep stage at idle then bring the car up to launch RPM without some issue like the tree coming down before set. Especially true when bracket racing a slower car like my Challenger which will be true most of the time. I usually stop just before the pre stage light and wait at idle for my opponent to light their prestage. I then bring it up to launch rmp (2000-2300) and lift the brake to roll the car forward in one motion , pre stage on, stage on, pre stage off stop and focus on my 3rd bulb. I can do that in 5-6 seconds. What I can't control is how long my opponent will take to turn their stage light on. They have 10 seconds once i turn my stage light on. The tree takes about 2 seconds to activate then another 1 second (if I have the slower car) to light my 3rd bulb. the math works out to 6+9+2+1= 18 seconds and my car will time out. Time on my converter is can be longer if I have to race a 17 second car vs my 12 dial.

The reason they put a trans temp gauge in the car so you don't over heat the thing. The 1320 is marketed as a factory bracket car. Taking away the ability to deep stage makes that statement mute.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Fyi the time out has nothing to do with transmission heat. It's a the amount of time on the converter not the temp of the trans fluid. Does the same thing when the trans brake is activated. 15 second flop.
 

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I won't get into the argument about why it's bad to do this to your transmission. I completely understand what you are saying about the difficulty staging a car in the lanes and waiting on your opponent. If you deep stage it's difficult, unless you always get in first, to bring the car up to RPM and then get focused on the 3rd bulb. But there is never a guarantee when staging. I would argue, however, that deep staging these cars isn't a must. It takes a bit more practice, but you can 3rd bulb your Challenger to consistent good reaction times staging normally. I could leave on the 3rd yellow in my '15 SPS and cut .030's and better lights. Now, that is gonna win a bunch of races on street nights, but real bracket racers may eat you up with an .030 light. (Which, I'm assuming is why you are deep staging!) I ran drag radials and managed to do fine. RPM's at launch were only 1700-1800 or so foot braking it. Occasionally I'd cut better lights, occasionally they'd be worse - par for the course. So I think with the set up in your 1320, you could 3rd bulb without deep staging.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Put you car on a Pro 500 light and tell me you RT. I don't anticipate or guess on the tree. My deep .051 miss and .031 would be 151 and 131. Good light to go home.
 

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Don't you guess every time you launch? ;) Pro tree is certainly a different animal. Not sure my method would be that useful.

How consistent is your ET?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
My first hit was a little late. runs 2 and 3 spun due to track and rear tire pressure. Move to left lane and was a good hit on the tree. Need to up launch rpm by 200/ Not bad for an old guy who's last time on the track was over year ago.
999427
999428
 

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With all due respect I'm looking for a yes or no answer for anyone willing to do the test for me. If you feel it will damage your car please don't do it.

The answer to why is that in order to cut a line in this car without anticipation the light you have to deep stage. Launch RPM is critical to RT. With auto start and all the timing on the tree you must bring it up to launch rpm before you start your deep stageing process. There is no way that anyone can deep stage at idle then bring the car up to launch RPM without some issue like the tree coming down before set. Especially true when bracket racing a slower car like my Challenger which will be true most of the time. I usually stop just before the pre stage light and wait at idle for my opponent to light their prestage. I then bring it up to launch rmp (2000-2300) and lift the brake to roll the car forward in one motion , pre stage on, stage on, pre stage off stop and focus on my 3rd bulb. I can do that in 5-6 seconds. What I can't control is how long my opponent will take to turn their stage light on. They have 10 seconds once i turn my stage light on. The tree takes about 2 seconds to activate then another 1 second (if I have the slower car) to light my 3rd bulb. the math works out to 6+9+2+1= 18 seconds and my car will time out. Time on my converter is can be longer if I have to race a 17 second car vs my 12 dial.

The reason they put a trans temp gauge in the car so you don't over heat the thing. The 1320 is marketed as a factory bracket car. Taking away the ability to deep stage makes that statement mute.
I get it, but then ask for 20 seconds, not 40, that is forever. But agreed, probably a 15 second timer built in.
 

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My only question is why would you want to break your foot?
 

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The Pork Wagon (‘14 Cop Charger)
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So the 1320 is meant to live at the track, yet no Launch Mode functionality was included in its design?

Good thing I’m not the head honcho at Dodge, because I would fire the person responsible for making that decision...or not making it, in this case.
 
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