Forged 5.7 Build

13332 Views 82 Replies 9 Participants Last post by Jeff_H, 5 d ago

JD40

Discussion Starter · Mar 22, 2022

What's up guys,
Finally getting to forging my motor. I'm running a 6.1 crank and the MMX drop in piston/rod kit with Manley rods substituting the Molnars that have been on backorder (Manleys will need balancing which is necessary anyway due to crank swap).

I'm swapping the reluctor wheel to the 4 bolt, 58 tooth 09-12 wheel. I just wanted to confirm that I have it oriented correctly, I assume there's only one direction it can go? Pics below
Any help would be appreciated

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1 - 20 of 83 Posts

McCloud

· #2 · Mar 22, 2022

Following, I haven't done one of these yet either and I don't see anything in the service manual.

A Guy

· #3 · Mar 23, 2022

DakBuilder may know?

A Guy

Jeff_H

· #4 · Mar 24, 2022

JD40 said:
What's up guys,
Finally getting to forging my motor. I'm running a 6.1 crank and the MMX drop in piston/rod kit with Manley rods substituting the Molnars that have been on backorder (Manleys will need balancing which is necessary anyway due to crank swap).

I'm swapping the reluctor wheel to the 4 bolt, 58 tooth 09-12 wheel. I just wanted to confirm that I have it oriented correctly, I assume there's only one direction it can go? Pics below
Any help would be appreciated View attachment 1046563 View attachment 1046564 View attachment 1046565

I'm going to be doing the same build here soon myself. I would say just compare the orientation with your stock crankshaft when its out.

Reactions: 1

JD40

Discussion Starter · #5 · Mar 24, 2022

Jeff_H said:
I'm going to be doing the same build here soon myself. I would say just compare the orientation with your stock crankshaft when its out.

Yea that's my plan if I don't get any clarity on here. You'd think the bolt holes would be offset so you can't get it wrong

Jeff_H

· #6 · Mar 24, 2022

You will also need a 6.1L HEMI Crank Conversion to VVT Spacer Ring as well. But if you've been shopping at MMX you probably already know that.

JD40

Discussion Starter · #7 · Mar 24, 2022

Jeff_H said:
You will also need a 6.1L HEMI Crank Conversion to VVT Spacer Ring as well. But if you've been shopping at MMX you probably already know that.

Yep already got that and all other parts. This isn't my first 5.7 build but first time using a 6.1 crank. I'm getting it balanced next week probably so I'll try to keep updates with the build for you and anyone else looking to do this

Reactions: 1

Jeff_H

· #8 · Mar 24, 2022

Much appreciated! This will be my first 5.7 build but I do know my way around motors. I'm still waiting on my rods then I can start moving forward on my build.

JD40

Discussion Starter · #9 · Apr 4, 2022

UPDATE:
Just picked up the donor block. It's out of a 2014 Ram who some of you may know from YouTube "Incredible Hemi". Working on disassembly and inspection now, of course I totally forgot that the Ram dipstick is driver's side so I'll have to figure out how that will work in a challenger now.

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newoldschool

· #10 · Apr 4, 2022

I have the same block forged rotary in built. My block is from a 2013 Ram. My research allowed me to conclude that you will have to use an oem r/t car oil pan. On a Ram, oil dip stick tub has its origin on the the driver side of the block and on a 5.7 r/t car late model has its origin on the passager side in the oil pan. So remove the oil dip stick on the Ram block, plug or fill it and swap the oil pan and gasket with a 5.7 r/t car oil pan and gasket. So will have to swap some other parts on the Ram block from your origin block.

JD40

Discussion Starter · #11 · Apr 4, 2022

newoldschool said:
I have the same block forged rotary in built. My block is from a 2013 Ram. My research allowed me to conclude that you will have to use an oem r/t car oil pan. On a Ram, oil dip stick tub has its origin on the the driver side of the block and on a 5.7 r/t car late model has its origin on the passager side in the oil pan. So remove the oil dip stick on the Ram block, plug or fill it and swap the oil pan and gasket with a 5.7 r/t car oil pan and gasket. So will have to swap some other parts on the Ram block from your origin block.

Awesome information. It's a relief knowing the R/T dipstick goes through the oil pan. Thank you!

newoldschool

· #12 · Apr 4, 2022

Glad to help and please keep us informed of your progression in your built so we can help each other

Jeff_H

· #13 · Apr 7, 2022

I'm looking into going down this path myself with the 5.7 truck block. I just located a 2013 5.7 block close where I live.

JD, did you ever figure out the orientation of the reductor ring?

JD40

Discussion Starter · #14 · Apr 7, 2022

Jeff_H said:
I'm looking into going down this path myself with the 5.7 truck block. I just located a 2013 5.7 block close where I live.

JD, did you ever figure out the orientation of the reductor ring?

After looking at how it was on my donor block it looks like the way I have it is correct.
Builds on standby now because I noticed a few small vertical scores in the walls so it's gonna need an overbore, looks like the ring end caps closed up at some point but not enough to cause catastrophic damage. Truck this motor came out of was running 8psi with a Whipple 2.9 on 93/MS109

Jeff_H

· #15 · Apr 8, 2022

I'll take a closer look at the pics you posted with the crank/reluctor wheel and set mine up accordingly.
Are you still going to be able to use the block? I thought you bought drop-ins.
I have a little room on the pistons I went with. Going over to 3.927.

JD40

Discussion Starter · #16 · Apr 8, 2022

Jeff_H said:
I'll take a closer look at the pics you posted with the crank/reluctor wheel and set mine up accordingly.
Are you still going to be able to use the block? I thought you bought drop-ins.
I have a little room on the pistons I went with. Going over to 3.927.

Yea I should be able to get away with just boring it .010 over for the 3.927 pistons. I just have to now exchange them since I originally ordered 3.917 pistons.
Here's pics of the scores in the cylinder walls-

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They're really not that bad and most of them you can't even feel, but I'm gonna do it right the first time

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McCloud

· #17 · Apr 8, 2022

JD40 said:
Yea I should be able to get away with just boring it .010 over for the 3.927 pistons. I just have to now exchange them since I originally ordered 3.917 pistons.
Here's pics of the scores in the cylinder walls- View attachment 1047807
View attachment 1047808
View attachment 1047806

They're really not that bad and most of them you can't even feel, but I'm gonna do it right the first time

ouch! how do the piston skirts look?

JD40

Discussion Starter · #18 · Apr 9, 2022

McCloud said:
ouch! how do the piston skirts look?

Pistons skirts look basically identical to the bores, some really light scoring but nothing too deep. It seems like the cylinders closer to the front of the motor saw more wear than towards the rear

Jeff_H

· #19 · Apr 25, 2022

Was able to finally get out to the wrecking yard and picked up my 2013 5.7 block yesterday. It looks like it's in pretty good shape. Still need to break it down. I also scored a set of 2015 heads as well. The guy gave me a great price so I couldn't pass them up. The build is moving forward slowly but its moving.

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McCloud

· #20 · May 31, 2022

JD40 said:
Yea I should be able to get away with just boring it .010 over for the 3.927 pistons. I just have to now exchange them since I originally ordered 3.917 pistons.
Here's pics of the scores in the cylinder walls- View attachment 1047807
View attachment 1047808
View attachment 1047806

They're really not that bad and most of them you can't even feel, but I'm gonna do it right the first time

Making progress?

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