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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Howdy -

Pulled the trigger on the KWV2 setup. Read several posts that talk about the lack of adjustability in the front and rear control arms. Replacing the front looks straight forward enough and the Speedlogix and SPC/Eibach units look good.

Where I start to get lost is what actually needs to be swapped out for the back wheels to be brought into alignment? Is it both upper arms, just the front arm, just the rear arm, or the trailing arm? Or all 3? Just want to make sure I have all the parts on hand when I take the car in. Looking at the Spohn package setup and just looking to know if I need all 3 components or not.

This is a weekend fun and track car. Will see a nights a year at the drag strip also.

Thanks!
 

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I put BC Racing coilovers on a 2010 Challenger. To get the alignment spot on I had to put adjustable upper A arms in and Eibach adjustable rear bushings in.

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I have the v2’s as well

Spc arms in the front, and spc/eibach bushings in the rear to correct the camber.

With this setup and an experienced alignment guy, you can achieve any camber you want.

The bushings in the rear replace the factory control arm bushings. They have marks on then that designate how to clock them for how much adjusment you want. Take the measurements first, decide where you want your camber, then press the bushing in accordingly and put the wheels back on to double check it is where you want it.


My mechanic had to buy a special set to press the bushings in and out without removing the entire arm assembly.

The spohn package is nice, but maybe a little overkill for just camber adjustment. Although, it would make it a hell of a lot easier in the future if you changed setups. I believe it is the upper rear arm you need.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I have the v2’s as well

Spc arms in the front, and spc/eibach bushings in the rear to correct the camber.

With this setup and an experienced alignment guy, you can achieve any camber you want.

The bushings in the rear replace the factory control arm bushings. They have marks on then that designate how to clock them for how much adjusment you want. Take the measurements first, decide where you want your camber, then press the bushing in accordingly and put the wheels back on to double check it is where you want it.


My mechanic had to buy a special set to press the bushings in and out without removing the entire arm assembly.

The spohn package is nice, but maybe a little overkill for just camber adjustment. Although, it would make it a hell of a lot easier in the future if you changed setups. I believe it is the upper rear arm you need.
Thanks! This is what I was looking to confirm. I was reading up on the bushings also and they sound like a bit of a pita, and to your point, tougher to manage in the future. Kind of a one shot adjustment, with special tooling possibly required.

The Spohn is definitely leaning toward overkill, but I figure if I already dropped 2k on the shocks, then I better address the peripherals while it's all apart.

It feels like I'm talking myself into the Spohn, even though I asked for feedback...:|

Track Spec Auto in Fremont CA is going to do the work (Hotchkis front and rear bars, the KW f&r, and the control arms). After all that's done, their corner balancing it and doing 2 alignments. It won't be cheap, but cheaper than me buying the scales and fumbling through it in my garage.

How low did the V2 end up lowering your car and what tires are you running? Thanks for the info!
 

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Thanks! This is what I was looking to confirm. I was reading up on the bushings also and they sound like a bit of a pita, and to your point, tougher to manage in the future. Kind of a one shot adjustment, with special tooling possibly required.



The Spohn is definitely leaning toward overkill, but I figure if I already dropped 2k on the shocks, then I better address the peripherals while it's all apart.



It feels like I'm talking myself into the Spohn, even though I asked for feedback...:|



Track Spec Auto in Fremont CA is going to do the work (Hotchkis front and rear bars, the KW f&r, and the control arms). After all that's done, their corner balancing it and doing 2 alignments. It won't be cheap, but cheaper than me buying the scales and fumbling through it in my garage.



How low did the V2 end up lowering your car and what tires are you running? Thanks for the info!


How low is up to you, i also got a corner balancing done but be weary, a good corner balance is not only adjusting for 50/50 weight ratio (and surprisingly the factory balance was 48/52), but also to lower the center of gravity. The shop i took it to, evasive motorsports, build racecars. Apparently they thought i had a full trac spec challenger and dumped my baby almost as low as it goes. I raised it up about an 1/8” all around and she sit nice on 18’s


Just tell your shop you dont want it too low...and if i may advise you, skip the corner balancing all together. I have multiple race shops as customers and they are 50/50 on the effectiveness of corner balancing for a street car...i felt it was just an added cost that didnt translate back to good value

Any good installer should get close if they setup the coils correctly.

Not sure what size wheel/tire you are planning but my setup is 18x9 with 275/40R18’s front and 18x10 with a 295/45R18 in the back

I believe the highest setting on the V2’s still provide a drop if 2” all around, but double check on their website i may be off

Good luck man make sure to post pics when its all done, those shocks have performed amazing for the past 30k miles
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Looks good! I was planning to run mine as high as they'd go, which if I'm following is around an inch in the front and 1.75 in the back, over stock.

My tires are 275/40r20 and 305/35r20.

Good tip on the corner balance. They're quoting $400 for that and the alignments alone, which kind of seemed appropriate.

The suspension and control arm install is where I could save a buck if I at least did the fronts myself I guess.
 

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Looks good! I was planning to run mine as high as they'd go, which if I'm following is around an inch in the front and 1.75 in the back, over stock.

My tires are 275/40r20 and 305/35r20.

Good tip on the corner balance. They're quoting $400 for that and the alignments alone, which kind of seemed appropriate.

The suspension and control arm install is where I could save a buck if I at least did the fronts myself I guess.


Either way you go, the rear spohn arms need to drop the cradle partially, install for a shop with a lift shouldnt be a problem and if its a popular suspension shop they should have the right way to put the bushings in.

Front arms arent a huge deal as long as you got a good set of tools. You just kinda have to eyeball your camber until its aligned
 

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X2 on doing the fronts yourself. Put a set of SPCs on my car after I installed front drag coilovers. Didn’t take that long (maybe 2 hours after I figured out how to get the ball joint separated) and I adjusted maybe 5 times a side before I had the wheels standing like I wanted just by looking at it. (This simply involved raising and lowering the front to adjust the camber)

When I took the car to an alignment shop months later (to set rear toe after 15” conversion) I was surprised to find I actually got the fronts within factory spec!


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Howdy -

Pulled the trigger on the KWV2 setup. Read several posts that talk about the lack of adjustability in the front and rear control arms. Replacing the front looks straight forward enough and the Speedlogix and SPC/Eibach units look good.

Where I start to get lost is what actually needs to be swapped out for the back wheels to be brought into alignment? Is it both upper arms, just the front arm, just the rear arm, or the trailing arm? Or all 3? Just want to make sure I have all the parts on hand when I take the car in. Looking at the Spohn package setup and just looking to know if I need all 3 components or not.

This is a weekend fun and track car. Will see a nights a year at the drag strip also.

Thanks!
Recently did this on my 16 Scat Challenger with GREAT results. 3 Spohn links in rear.......SPC up front. Rear is set at 0 Camber with "me in the car". I can now dead hook at the track with a full throttle launch. Fronts are set at .25 and and .50 neg. Traction has increased and the car seems to roll easier without the scrubbing effect of too much neg camber. I notice zero traction loss around a corner as well. I run 17" Drag Stars with 225's up front and 315's in rear.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Recently did this on my 16 Scat Challenger with GREAT results. 3 Spohn links in rear.......SPC up front. Rear is set at 0 Camber with "me in the car". I can now dead hook at the track with a full throttle launch. Fronts are set at .25 and and .50 neg. Traction has increased and the car seems to roll easier without the scrubbing effect of too much neg camber. I notice zero traction loss around a corner as well. I run 17" Drag Stars with 225's up front and 315's in rear.
Thanks - did you do all 3 Spohn links as adjustable? Or only upper?
 

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Thanks - did you do all 3 Spohn links as adjustable? Or only upper?
Your welcome. I did all 3....you have to to be able adjust camber and toe without bind. WELL worth it!! SOLID pieces. WAY better than stock spaghetti stuff.
 
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