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Discussion Starter #1
Does anyone have any experience with components in the front stage of a challenger? What I want to know is, how does the setup sound with the woofer in the door and the tweeter in the 3.5" location in the dash. Trying to determine if this is too great of a separation for the component setup leading to bad sound.
 

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Ive done them on two occasions using 6.5" in the door and 8" in the door on another install. they sound great with the tweeter in the 3.5" location. Using brackets that came with the tweeters help to get the right angle for sound. Having a sound processor helps a lot to dial everything in.




 

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Discussion Starter #3
Nice. Thanks for the information and pics, IMCHALLENGEN. I may go ahead and try this set up. Do you have any pics of a 4" speaker in the dash? Do you think I will get great percussion sound from just the 2-way components?
 

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Are you using a matched set of woofer, tweeter, and crossover? All one brand that is designed to go together?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I will be using a traditional 2-way system with the crossover. Just haven't decided on a particular set as of yet. It will be Morel or Focal. I've already a set of 6.5 Focal 165 CA1's for the rear and plan to start with an old Kenwood 8" bass tube I have laying around. I think this will supply me with enough bass fill for now. My concern for the front stage is to give me enough mid bass, primarily percussion and vocals. I just wonder if a 6.5" mid and separate tweeter will do that or should I be looking to add the 3.5" in the dash. Some tell me the 3.5 is just a glorified tweeter.
 

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Nice. Thanks for the information and pics, IMCHALLENGEN. I may go ahead and try this set up. Do you have any pics of a 4" speaker in the dash? Do you think I will get great percussion sound from just the 2-way components?
Ive never done a 4" in the dash. I hardly ever use coax speakers, only time is when someone wants a cheap rear fill option. I only use components up front, tweeter in the 3.5" dash location and 6.5" or 8"
in the door. depending on the type of components you are using for great percussion. Since your replacing a 6x9 in the door and a 3.5" mid range you have to have a good component set and good matching power amp. In these setup on these cars I use no less then 120 watts a channel. that's 480 watts rms active on the front components. I hardly use passive setup since most want to keep the oem headunit and use a processor.

pic of a 6.5" in the door


Then an 8" in the door


pics of the 8" Illusion Audio Carbon C8 component set.
 

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Want crazy mid bass up front, its all about cone area of the speaker, bigger the better. that's the reason dodge uses 6x9 up front. but dodge uses cheap paper speakers like all oem companies do. Also sound deadening the door help a lot more then people care to know.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
You've given me much more to think about. I hadn't considered an 8" in the door. Mainly been going back and forth between 6.5 components or 6x9 coaxial. I'm am a little worried about power. I'll be running a Alpine INA-W900BT HU and an Alpine MRP-F300 amp. It's only 200 watts at 4 ohms and 300 at 2 ohms and I plan to use it on the rear 6.5 Focals and what ever I use in the front. I will be applying hush mat to the doors and rear parcel shelf, too. I would like to take advantage of the factory amp but only use it for the dash if I go with 3.5's and since it's already crossed over. I have everything I think I need and just waiting to make a decision on the front stage. I'm trying to stay reasonable so I'm about in the $200 range. One idea was to replace the BA 3.5s with the Kicker OEM 3.5s and rely on the Alpine to control the sound. It's already improved the BA's sound. And just put a 2 way 6x9 coaxial in the doors but I've been really impressed with the sound of the components. I appreciate all of the feedback. Sounds like you really know your stuff.
 

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You've given me much more to think about. I hadn't considered an 8" in the door. Mainly been going back and forth between 6.5 components or 6x9 coaxial. I'm am a little worried about power. I'll be running a Alpine INA-W900BT HU and an Alpine MRP-F300 amp. It's only 200 watts at 4 ohms and 300 at 2 ohms and I plan to use it on the rear 6.5 Focals and what ever I use in the front. I will be applying hush mat to the doors and rear parcel shelf, too. I would like to take advantage of the factory amp but only use it for the dash if I go with 3.5's and since it's already crossed over. I have everything I think I need and just waiting to make a decision on the front stage. I'm trying to stay reasonable so I'm about in the $200 range. One idea was to replace the BA 3.5s with the Kicker OEM 3.5s and rely on the Alpine to control the sound. It's already improved the BA's sound. And just put a 2 way 6x9 coaxial in the doors but I've been really impressed with the sound of the components. I appreciate all of the feedback. Sounds like you really know your stuff.
The 8" components i use are very shallow and handle a good amount of power, that's why they work great for this car. But they are very expensive since they are SQ components which are made with high quality materials
Carbon C8 | Illusion Audio

you would need more power for a good front component set, 50watts x 4 for front and rears isn't going to cut it. If you bridged it to 2 channel 150watts x 2 @4 ohms would be good for just the front component set or 6x9. I would just run the rear off the factory amp.

If your budget is only $200, i would look for some good used 6.5" components instead of brand new ones. It had to get good quality new ones for that price that will sound good. $200 for used ones that at one time was around $500 range would be the best bet. If you have to have new speakers in that range I would probably get 6x9 then. so you can maintain good bass and mids. and find decent 3.5" for the dash. power the dash and rear speakers off the factory amp and the 6x9s or the component set off the aftermarket amp bridged to two channels. I just sold a set of the illusion E6 components I had on my demo board for $120 shipped to CA. The MAP price on those where $300. the crossover are bi-amp also. this is the first company I dealt with that entry level components crossover that are bi-amp. Even companies like Image Dynamics top of the line components you cant bi-amp them. just shows the quality of the illusion brand.
 

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My Focal front speakers use 6 1/2" in the doors 4" mids in the dash amd 2" tweeters in the roof pillars. My soundstage is full and alive and the mids coming out of the dash blend in well with the tweets. The mids are low profile and take a little cutting to fit. For the center I had to have a small hole cut out in the dash cover but it looks sweet and sounds solid.

Focal 3-way Performance P165V33 Component Speakers (Front),






My center is also a 4"" Focal Polyglass Co-Axial running on 2 bridged channels of my P-400 amp (150 watts RMS)


My rear 6 1/2" Focals are the same Focal Access CS-1 6 1/2" Coaxial Speakers as yours. They are run off of the other 2 channels of the P-400 (100 watts RMS).

I am going to be running the front passive now off of a new 2 channel amp I'm getting next week. After fighting an on going battle with my misbehaving T600-4 amp that has now broken on me twice I am moving up to a Arc Audio KS 300-2 amp that puts out 300 watts RMS.

Check out my Focal Arc Audio thread for more pictures and info on what I did.
 

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My Focal front speakers use 6 1/2" in the doors 4" mids in the dash amd 2" tweeters in the roof pillars. My soundstage is full and alive and the mids coming out of the dash blend in well with the tweets. The mids are low profile and take a little cutting to fit. For the center I had to have a small hole cut out in the dash cover but it looks sweet and sounds solid.

Focal 3-way Performance P165V33 Component Speakers (Front),






My center is also a 4"" Focal Polyglass Co-Axial running on 2 bridged channels of my P-400 amp (150 watts RMS)


My rear 6 1/2" Focals are the same Focal Access CS-1 6 1/2" Coaxial Speakers as yours. They are run off of the other 2 channels of the P-400 (100 watts RMS).

I am going to be running the front passive now off of a new 2 channel amp I'm getting next week. After fighting an on going battle with my misbehaving T600-4 amp that has now broken on me twice I am moving up to a Arc Audio KS 300-2 amp that puts out 300 watts RMS.

Check out my Focal Arc Audio thread for more pictures and info on what I did.

looks like a sweet setup you have there. Good pick with the Arc Audio KS 300.2, they are great amps.
 

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I had my T600-4 repaired by Rockford Fosgate for $190 back in March. It had been running hot and the left channel went out when it was in my truck. After I got it back it continued to run hot and has now blown my 6 1/2" door woofer on the drivers side twice. My T-1000 sub amp is awesome but this amp is cursed. What really bothers me is he rude when I called to complain saying I must have wired it wrong etc. I told the rep that it was doing the same thing as before when it was in my Ford F-105 but he replied that it was past the 90 days repair warranty. No way I'm wasting another $200 on fixing it again.
I let him know that he just lost a good customer to Arc Audio as a result. This amp has built in cooling fan and puts out a ton of power! Still waiting for the Focal to come back before putting the Arc in!!
No tunes in my car for 2 weeks now! Funny thing is I have never really listened to my exhaust before.
 

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oh sorry to hear about all the issues you are having. I personally dont like amps that dont have the cooling fans. Thats why I like the arc amps and the mosconi. I never had over heating issues. down the road if your looking for a good set of component let me know. check out the illusion audio components. they are my go to setup for most installs. the mosconi amps have a 3 year warranty. have a issue, they send you the amp first and you have 30 days to return the bad one. great customer service there.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Hey, SacTownMan. Your front stage three-way setup is what has me inspired for one of my own. I actually have my eye on the 165 A3 SG. It says it comes with a 3 15/16" mid that I hope will be an easier fit than squeezing in the 4". Every little bit will help I suppose. What did your installer do to fit the rear speakers? Did he have to make an adapter to mount them? The set I have didn't come with any adapters.
 

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Hey, SacTownMan. Your front stage three-way setup is what has me inspired for one of my own. I actually have my eye on the 165 A3 SG. It says it comes with a 3 15/16" mid that I hope will be an easier fit than squeezing in the 4". Every little bit will help I suppose. What did your installer do to fit the rear speakers? Did he have to make an adapter to mount them? The set I have didn't come with any adapters.
Don't know about the rears. The installer put them in. I have concentrated on the wiring, amp rack and cover and let them do the speaker installs. I know the 4" midrange in mine is a low profile design that is able to sit under the dash cover. He did have to do something to open the hole a little but I wasn't there to see what was done.
 

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This is what I did for my front sound stage:

Here is stock paper coned speaker and what I put in the dash:



For the front doors I went with the 6.5" components:



Mounted with the directional tweeters:



I used same components for the rear deck.

Then JL Audio sub for trunk:




You still need to "dial-in" the system with the gains and head unit, but since the cross-overs are matched it sounds pretty good just out of the box.
 

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Nice MarchAFB! How is that sub? Gets loud?
Thanks - I am running a 500W RMS mono amp to drive it. It is not one you will hear coming down the street (which I don't want), but you can hear it 2 cars over. I listen to everything (Rock, Country, old skool Rap, Techno) and it has great response, hits hard and clear.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Hey, MarchAFB thanks for the pics. Everything looks great and clean which is what I'm after. How do the components sound with the tweeters in that location? I'm actually going to attempt that with a set of brackets I found on eBay that are designed to house a 6.5 and tweeter in the stock 6x9 location. I'm a little worried about it which is why I want to keep the 3.5" in the dash. Infinity is a good choice because it's a 2 ohm speaker and I do plan to use the factory amp to push them and the 2 ohm load will allow for max power. I picked up an Alpine KTP-445U ($10) which I will bridge to two channels to push the Alpine SPS-610C's ($40) I have for the doors. Lastly, I will use an Alpine MRP-F300 bridged to 3 channels to push the Focals and a small sub. My Kenwood bass tube didn't work out. After about three minutes, the woofer fell apart. The thing is about 15 years old. It died a good death.
 

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Hey, MarchAFB thanks for the pics. Everything looks great and clean which is what I'm after. How do the components sound with the tweeters in that location? I'm actually going to attempt that with a set of brackets I found on eBay that are designed to house a 6.5 and tweeter in the stock 6x9 location. I'm a little worried about it which is why I want to keep the 3.5" in the dash. Infinity is a good choice because it's a 2 ohm speaker and I do plan to use the factory amp to push them and the 2 ohm load will allow for max power. I picked up an Alpine KTP-445U ($10) which I will bridge to two channels to push the Alpine SPS-610C's ($40) I have for the doors. Lastly, I will use an Alpine MRP-F300 bridged to 3 channels to push the Focals and a small sub. My Kenwood bass tube didn't work out. After about three minutes, the woofer fell apart. The thing is about 15 years old. It died a good death.
Wow, a whole 3 minutes! At least its end of life was quick! :laugh:

The 6.5's in the doors sound great and the tweeters are good too in that location. Just remember that tweeters are directional as bass is not, so the closer to ear level the better. I went a little lower than I normally would, but because the housing my tweeters are installed in has some swivel to it, I was able to point them up towards the listener. I saw a few others put the tweeters in the same mounting bracket as the woof\mid and behind the door panel, but to me that position is too low and you also have the door panel plastic that would cut down the "travel". Another issue can come up if you are driving the tweeter and woof\mid from the same crossover is that if the tweeter is placed too far away from the woof\mid you can get a "timing" issue. Some crossovers can accommodate and correct this issue (although most people would never notice).

In my car, I ditched the whole stock system and installed all aftermarket. I do my own installs because I want everything soldered\heat shrunk and crimped wires\tape just don't cut it for me. To me this is really the only way to go. I pretty much knew how my system was going to sound as I did almost the same exact install in my Dodge Ram QC. Its not a super high end system, but I'm very happy with it and it fit my budget :bigthumb:

Good luck
 
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