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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So after installation of my Mopar stage ones and half a day of driving, my driver's side strut mount seems to have gone bad as I'm getting this exact sound when turning:


I've taken it back to the shop and they thought the strut was misaligned and reinstalled the whole thing but after driving for 3 minutes the sound was back.

Does anyone know the OEM part number for the strut mount? Or should I just get the Moog brand replacement? (While the passenger side is OEM)

Moog replacement: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005JCQ6MK/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1
 

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OEM is 5181575AA Moog makes quality parts if the OEM isn't available

A Guy
 
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When it comes to the front ends on our cars, Moog and aftermarket in geneal is aftermarket is pretty much always better. And a lot cheaper, too. When I had to replace the "tension struts" on my old car, the difference between the not great struts and the ones I got on Rockauto were considerable. No Zerks on the OE ones, heavier casting on the aftermarket ones. Lifetime warranty on the aftermarket ones, and less than half the cost the dealer wanted. Half the labor having a friend's brother in law put them on at the Chevy dealership he works at. $205 with better parts vs. $630 with (IMHO) junk parts? Cheap is good!
 
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
When it comes to the front ends on our cars, Moog and aftermarket in geneal is aftermarket is pretty much always better. And a lot cheaper, too. When I had to replace the "tension struts" on my old car, the difference between the not great struts and the ones I got on Rockauto were considerable. No Zerks on the OE ones, heavier casting on the aftermarket ones. Lifetime warranty on the aftermarket ones, and less than half the cost the dealer wanted. Half the labor having a friend's brother in law put them on at the Chevy dealership he works at. $205 with better parts vs. $630 with (IMHO) junk parts? Cheap is good!
Unfortunately I already bought one from the dealership because I would have to wait for 1-2 weeks for the Moog replacement. (International delivery)

I'll put it on today and hopefully it solves my problem, as hearing the clunk when turning the wheel more than 1.5 turns stresses me out haha.
 

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Hopefully, it wasn't too expensive, but nothing is cheap at a dealership, ever. Last thing they got me for, other than the high priced oil changes, is a gas cap for $20, "VIP discounted" from $25 that cost like $2.99 on Ebay for the exact same Standt cap.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Hopefully, it wasn't too expensive, but nothing is cheap at a dealership, ever. Last thing they got me for, other than the high priced oil changes, is a gas cap for $20, "VIP discounted" from $25 that cost like $2.99 on Ebay for the exact same Standt cap.
Cost me about $40, which is about the usual for parts here. They're double the price of parts in the US. Unfortunately, it didn't fix the turning clunk and I've watched the shop disassemble and reassemble the whole driver's side strut, it was all done correctly so I have no idea what is causing it.

I may just end up taking it to the dealership service department...
 

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Cost me about $40, which is about the usual for parts here. They're double the price of parts in the US. Unfortunately, it didn't fix the turning clunk and I've watched the shop disassemble and reassemble the whole driver's side strut, it was all done correctly so I have no idea what is causing it.

I may just end up taking it to the dealership service department...
Be sure to only hand tighten the strut mount bolts while car is off ground. Would also look @ spring orientation on the mount or the bolt on top of the mount. That bolt needs a special tool to get it to the proper torque - not just run down with an impact wrench.
 

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I had an "Urrrkk!" in my old Camaro's front end when I turned the wheel and sometimes when I hit a bump that seemed to stump the dealer time after time. I finally found it by laying in front of the car with a friend behind the wheel and he cranked the wheel back and forth. It turned out to be the sway bar sticking and then letting go. Cleaning the bushings and polishing the bar (It was pretty rough, and had some kind of sticky tar or something on it) where the bushing rode on it cured it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
Be sure to only hand tighten the strut mount bolts while car is off ground. Would also look @ spring orientation on the mount or the bolt on top of the mount. That bolt needs a special tool to get it to the proper torque - not just run down with an impact wrench.
Thanks, I'll be taking it to the dealership to get it fixed and torqued down properly. I believe I may have found the culprit though... I took the car to a friend at a nearby tire shop, we brought it up on a lift and the lower isolator on the driver's side strut seems to be sticking out of the 'seat'. I may just have to replace the isolator.

I took the pictures while looking at it from the rear.

EDIT: I did torque the top 18mm bolts down to 74 ft-lbs after installation using a torque wrench. The 13mm bolts were torqued down to 20 ft-lbs.
 

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What struts are on the car now, OE ones or aftermarket replacements or what?


Thanks, I'll be taking it to the dealership to get it fixed and torqued down properly. I believe I may have found the culprit though... I took the car to a friend at a nearby tire shop, we brought it up on a lift and the lower isolator on the driver's side strut seems to be sticking out of the 'seat'. I may just have to replace the isolator.

I took the pictures while looking at it from the rear.

EDIT: I did torque the top 18mm bolts down to 74 ft-lbs after installation using a torque wrench. The 13mm bolts were torqued down to 20 ft-lbs.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
What struts are on the car now, OE ones or aftermarket replacements or what?
Standard OE ones. Without STP.

I got it aligned today and checked the tie rod ends, sway bar end links, etc, they appear to be fine without any play. I even had the guys there move things around with a pry bar etc... So I'm utterly confused as to what is causing the sound.

I might get my rack and pinion checked...
 

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The Bacon Hauler (‘12 Cop Charger)
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Also, check the nuts on the two upper a-arm bolts for being loose. They are the ones on either side of the shock hat accessible in engine bay.

I forget their torque spec, but just stick a wrench on each and try to tighten it. If it's already torqued to spec, you won't be able to move it. If you can tighten it at all, it is loose and needs to be torqued down to spec again.
 

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The Bacon Hauler (‘12 Cop Charger)
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Standard OE ones. Without STP.

I got it aligned today and checked the tie rod ends, sway bar end links, etc, they appear to be fine without any play. I even had the guys there move things around with a pry bar etc... So I'm utterly confused as to what is causing the sound.

I might get my rack and pinion checked...
I have disassembled and reassembled the struts on these cars more times than i care to remember, so I'm at least familiar with most of the noises you can hear when a part on the front end fails, and i gotta say i have never heard a sound like that one in the linked video.

Also, the strut mounts on these cars don't have a strut bearing per se, that's exclusive to the strut mounts on FWD cars i believe.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I have disassembled and reassembled the struts on these cars more times than i care to remember, so I'm at least familiar with most of the noises you can hear when a part on the front end fails, and i gotta say i have never heard a sound like that one in the linked video.

Also, the strut mounts on these cars don't have a strut bearing per se, that's exclusive to the strut mounts on FWD cars i believe.
I'll actually take a video of the sound tomorrow and upload it. (It's already too late here) It doesn't sound exactly like the video now that I've had more time with it.

I could also feel the 'clunk' through the footwell.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I have disassembled and reassembled the struts on these cars more times than i care to remember, so I'm at least familiar with most of the noises you can hear when a part on the front end fails, and i gotta say i have never heard a sound like that one in the linked video.

Also, the strut mounts on these cars don't have a strut bearing per se, that's exclusive to the strut mounts on FWD cars i believe.
Here is an audio clip I uploaded on Vocaroo of the sound.
 

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Here is an audio clip I uploaded on Vocaroo of the sound.
I’m hearing two sounds there. One is the clunking I’m assuming you’re talking about. It sounds to me like the beginnings of the dreaded front end clunk that has plagued the Chargers for so long. There can be several different causes, with the Tension strut bushing being the most likely I think.
 
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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I’m hearing two sounds there. One is the clunking I’m assuming you’re talking about. It sounds to me like the beginnings of the dreaded front end clunk that has plagued the Chargers for so long. There can be several different causes, with the Tension strut bushing being the most likely I think.
Thanks, I'll have all the front suspension bushings and ball joints checked out after a week or so. (Due to an almost week long public holiday here)
 
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