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Stock had obviously stock tires. I dont remember the DA that was 5 years ago. Regardless 13.01@ 109... Blower cam or not you would have around 100rwhp more than stock and run stock times. idk, just something wrong with that.
 
I never said it's safer, but for a small amount of boost (based on the assumption OP has a stock block) having dual pumps seems a bit overkill, which btw will raise the current draw of the system and will most likely require wiring upgrade anyways.

I was assuming the MSD didn't suck as much as the KB

Still curious though why we think BAP is safer then an actual pump setup that is adequate for the engine needs?
 
I also look at it as an investment in the future, I know there is no way I am going to be happy at 9 lbs on a stock engine for too long, and will be looking to go bigger. This way, that is one less thing I have to worry about
 
unless of course your boost a pump fails three times in 4000 miles and strands you,
anything and everything can and will break.:) But IMO sounds like someone wired your pump wrong. Wrong size wire is usually the culprit.

I cannot tell you how many Baps I have wired w/o issues. I have good luck with the KBs as well as the MSD's. Just my o.2 Use a BAP and larger fuel line from the tank to the rails..
 
anything and everything can and will break.:) But IMO sounds like someone wired your pump wrong. Wrong size wire is usually the culprit.

I cannot tell you how many Baps I have wired w/o issues. I have good luck with the KBs as well as the MSD's. Just my o.2 Use a BAP and larger fuel line from the tank to the rails..

12 GA wire with relays to eliminate the stock wiring all together. I also had the install looked at by the company that sold it to me, and they said that was how they do them too.
 
No way I'll ever put a BAP on a car. Just bad juju if you ask me.

Ask LuvMyRT if he thinks BAPs are a good solution and see what he has to tell ya.

I'd go with a new hat, harness, and fuel rail crossovers front and rear. You'll never have to worry about fuel with that setup. The Magnuson blower came with front and rear crossovers, but I don't think the Vortech does, so add them.
 
OP if you add a pump to thestock basket and dont modify it right, the room the extra pump takes up, you will suck the basket dry if your under a 1/4 tank fuel and a/f goes up (lean). I installed the dual pumps recently in a stock basket. Is how i know. Wiring will get hot if you dont use a relay.
I decided to run one pump, as the SC psi climbs 2nd pump runs. Keeps fuel from circulating with 2 pumps, heating fuel in the tank. (may be non issue)
I may run 3 pumps when I get a Ronnie Crawford motor.
As someone mentioned already and I totally agree, Change the line from the tank to the rail. As explained to me, if the little 1/4inid stock fuel line is manufactured with too tight a bend or the tubing stretched during process, now the tiny hole is even smaller, and we never know. FP only tell psi, not volume. We now run the StockBlock motors with SC and it all works,,,sure it works, on the ragged edge of NOT working. I can tell you the outcome when you go slightly over that edge.
FlatTop
 
Good points, but I can tell ya on my 12psi boost 6.0L stroker I have the stock fuel line going to the motor. I have the Arrington fuel hat with twin Walbro 255 pumps and 80# injectors. My car makes dang close to 600RWHP and my AFR sits steady at 11.3 - 11.5 so fuel volume is a non issue.
 
Speedy, theres a reason I made the fuel line point, I will get into detail when Im done, in another thread. Theres a reason. lollol. I also heard of people making 800whp on stock fuel system. lol lol
You have 80lb injectors that I think is a good move in liew of the srt4 injectors that come with a vortech at are what 53lb i think. Logging injector PIDs and a few others has gave me some good info.
Damn speedy I didnt realize you were pushing 600whp, that should get you right up into the high 10s anyway.
FlatTop
 
So you're comparing a Challenger 1/4 to a Grand Prix 1/4? In that case there's obviously something wrong with your car because I saw a bone stock M5 trap 115
Challengers were neck and neck with the GTO stock for stock. Just thought a stroker would would make it faster.

FWIW I would not use a BAP, more of a band-aid fix than anything. If you have the coin its worth it to build your own fuel system.
 
Speedy, theres a reason I made the fuel line point, I will get into detail when Im done, in another thread. Theres a reason. lollol. I also heard of people making 800whp on stock fuel system. lol lol
You have 80lb injectors that I think is a good move in liew of the srt4 injectors that come with a vortech at are what 53lb i think. Logging injector PIDs and a few others has gave me some good info.
Damn speedy I didnt realize you were pushing 600whp, that should get you right up into the high 10s anyway.
FlatTop
It's not quite 600, but dang close. After leaving Arrington I added the CAI and got a couple of tune tweaks from AJ.

10s seems like it's asking a lot from this setup with the 6 speed, but I guess if everything went 100% perfect....maybe. I don't have that as a goal as I personally just don't think it's realistic. Maybe in an auto, but not a 6 speed.
 
The new dual-pump setup from Arrington is specifically designed to address some of the issues mentioned here:

- Keeping the stock basket for low-fuel protection AND not reducing the fuel volume in the basket by putting another pump in there
- Making more pressure/volume available to the fuel system to feed larger injectors
- Managing the stock wiring concerns (two pumps powered through a #16 wire) by keeping the wiring run very short with a relay setup

All in all, I think it will be the best commercially available solution for the price. Not sure yet on timing for release, but it won't be long.

And yes, at some power level you just have to bite the bullet and upgrade the fuel line set from the tank to the rails - going from 5/16" stock line to a -6AN makes a huge difference in the ability of the pump(s) to deliver lots of fuel to the rail at the right pressure and with minimum amperage draw. There will be a "Stage 2" kit from Arrington that will include this upgrade and dovetail in to the new hat setup so that when you want to get stupid power, you can plug Stage 2 into Stage 1 and turn even more money into noise.
 
Id have to strongly advise against the BAP also, theres been alot of ppl blowing up engines because of their failure. just my opinion.
 
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