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Discussion Starter #1
I'm installing boost gauge and clock. I looked online for a bit but couldn't find a diagram. So I was curious what wires some of you tapped into under the dash for your gauges. Permanent 12v, acc on, dimmer, etc.
 

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2015 RT 5.7 M6
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I basically did something similar to Speedy, where ran wires from the fuse box under the hood and ran them thru the driver side grommet near the brake booster. Since I am running an AFR gauge I ran mine off the relay output that runs the intercooler pump. I did this because I only want the O2 filament on when the motors running, the relay output can handle the extra current demand of the heater and if the gauge stops working I know the intercooler pump relay is down.

speadysgarage.net/challengerweb/challenger_mods/challenger_performance_gauges/challenger_performance_gauges (That should be speedy and not speady)

 

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I installed a Painless Wiring Switched/Non Switched additional fuse box in the bottom of the trunk floor and all
my gauges are tied into that fuse block. I wasn't taking any chances of tapping into anything else and possibly
frying the TIPM.



 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
I installed a Painless Wiring Switched/Non Switched additional fuse box in the bottom of the trunk floor and all
my gauges are tied into that fuse block. I wasn't taking any chances of tapping into anything else and possibly
frying the TIPM.
Didn't you still have to tap into the main fuse box for your ignition power source?
 

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Didn't you still have to tap into the main fuse box for your ignition power source?
Straight to the battery for the main power source and then there's a 12V Switched line which is just a signal wire
for the switching relay very little to no load.
 

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Hmm might not be a bad Idea, thanks for the info!

You are welcome! It made it real easy to run the wires too, under the floor in the back then down the rocker
panel trim up into the A Pillar. I even marked the underside of the foam insert and was able to use a heat
knife and carve it out so it sits back in place. I mounted the fuse block and relay module to the piece of
steel that would hold a spare tire bolt (my car has no spare) that way I didn't penetrate the body with
any screws.
 

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Speady essentially did the same thing with the painless wiring but grabbed the power from the front fuse box (right were the "+" jumper goes). The reason I followed his way was because I needed to go through the firewall anyways so I decided front fuse box it is. The front fuse runs from a cable that comes directly off the battery. In fact, there is a junction on the passenger side footwell where you can tap off as well.
 

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Speady essentially did the same thing with the painless wiring but grabbed the power from the front fuse box (right were the "+" jumper goes). The reason I followed his way was because I needed to go through the firewall anyways so I decided front fuse box it is. The front fuse runs from a cable that comes directly off the battery. In fact, there is a junction on the passenger side footwell where you can tap off as well.
Yep it's completely ok to run off the front as long as you are going off the main power line for anything that has
actual draw on it. For me it just seemed easier to do it in the trunk, the only thing I needed to run through the
firewall was my boost tubing.
 

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I installed a Painless Wiring Switched/Non Switched additional fuse box in the bottom of the trunk floor and all
my gauges are tied into that fuse block. I wasn't taking any chances of tapping into anything else and possibly
frying the TIPM.



Toxic, Do you happen to remember which model of Painless fuse block that you used?

Thanks to you and ChallyTatum for the information too. :cheers:
 
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