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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I've got a 2015 SRT392. Tonight I was riding home and noted that my battery meter was running steadily at 13.4 volts. I was just commenting on another thread that my Challenger's electronics seem to be a bit glitchy. I told the story of pushing the on/off button for the radio to turn it on [edit: mute button], and it was just dead. On a hunch, I shut the car off and restarted it. Knob worked normally again.

Most of the time my car plays all the songs off my iPod normally. It sits in the center console plugged into the USB port. Other times, I have to unplug it and plug it back in for the car to "find" it.

Another time I grabbed the door latch trying to get into a locked car. It didn't unlock as it normally did. Key was hanging on my belt, as always. I'm standing directly in front of the door latch. Ugggh.

So back to my battery meter. On a hunch, I stopped the car, restarted it, and the battery meter immediately shot up to 14.3 volts, where it should be. There's nothing wrong with that battery. My car is turning into a drama queen. It's like glitch city.
The warranty period is gone now, so I'm on my own. Wondering if I'm the only one that has these occasional glitches.
 

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‘16 SRT392 here. I’ve had that door latch issue a couple times. Had to pause for a second or two for it to unlock. Figured I had just tried to pull up on the latch too quickly after putting my hand on it to activate the lock.
I haven’t found an on/off feature on my radio. Most I can do is mute it. Thought I read that that’s normal.
It took me awhile to figure out why the radio randomly switched to my iPhone music. It didn’t do it all the time and when it did, I just pushed the radio icon for the source I wanted. I then discovered that the music source defaults to the phone when plugged into the USB. I was just using the usb to charge the phone, hence the random nature of it. I now use the charging port next to it. I’m so stupid it took me a couple weeks to nail that one down.
I’ll keep an eye on my volt meter to see if I have the same issue you described.


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I don’t normally display the voltage gauge, but one day I was watching performance pages gauges and also saw 13.4 and wondered why it was so low.

I’m going out on a limb, but anything over 12v should be “acceptable” if not ideal. Maybe we both saw it when there was a heavy electrical load, but the alternator had cycled out of charging for some reason?

My car was back to over 14volts shortly after I noticed and nothing seemed to actually be wrong with the charging system.

I have had my locks dance up and back down when trying to open the door. If I let go of the handle and then grab it again, it seems to work fine. Must be something to do with how it senses touch.
 

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I've got a 2015 SRT392. Tonight I was riding home and noted that my battery meter was running steadily at 13.4 volts. I was just commenting on another thread that my Challenger's electronics seem to be a bit glitchy. I told the story of pushing the on/off button for the radio to turn it on, and it was just dead. On a hunch, I shut the car off and restarted it. Knob worked normally again.

Most of the time my car plays all the songs off my iPod normally. It sits in the center console plugged into the USB port. Other times, I have to unplug it and plug it back in for the car to "find" it.

Another time I grabbed the door latch trying to get into a locked car. It didn't unlock as it normally did. Key was hanging on my belt, as always. I'm standing directly in front of the door latch. Ugggh.

So back to my battery meter. On a hunch, I stopped the car, restarted it, and the battery meter immediately shot up to 14.3 volts, where it should be. There's nothing wrong with that battery. My car is turning into a drama queen. It's like glitch city.
The warranty period is gone now, so I'm on my own. Wondering if I'm the only one that has these occasional glitches.
I had a 2015 Scat Pack (just traded it in for a 2018 R/T 5.7), and my battery was slowly going bad a few months ago. Right before the lease ended, of course...grrr. But the only symptom was a "hitch" in starting it that was getting progressively worse until it finally died after having it on accessory with the radio playing for 45 minutes. Got a jump then went straight to Walmart to buy a 770 CCA battery (our factory batteries are 730 CCA). The odd thing is that I had the tech at Walmart check the battery with his tester and he said it was fine, but I knew it had to be replaced based on the symptoms. I bought a new one anyway and everything was fine afterwards.

On these cars, I don't think it takes much drop on battery voltage to cause the types of problems you're describing...I suspect you should replace it. It may test OK like mine did, but that doesn't seem to be the whole story with these cars. Also, I noticed the running voltage with my bad battery was 13.9-14.0 and it jumped to 14.0-14.1 with the new battery...not much of a difference. One of my coworkers has a 2015 300C that was having a number of weird symptoms...namely gauges and lights acting strangely. His car was cranking and starting OK, but he replaced the battery and everything was fine. Hope this helps.
 

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2015 SRT392 A8 in white pearl coat
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Discussion Starter #5
‘16 SRT392 here....
I haven’t found an on/off feature on my radio. Most I can do is mute it. Thought I read that that’s normal.

It took me awhile to figure out why the radio randomly switched to my iPhone music. It didn’t do it all the time and when it did, I just pushed the radio icon for the source I wanted. I then discovered that the music source defaults to the phone when plugged into the USB. I was just using the usb to charge the phone, hence the random nature of it. I now use the charging port next to it. I’m so stupid it took me a couple weeks to nail that one down.
I’ll keep an eye on my volt meter to see if I have the same issue you described.
Radio mute button: I call it the on/off button. I get that it says "MUTE" and that is what it does, but that time I tried to turn the radio on, that button was absolutely dead. I was driving the car so didn't have time to deal with it right away, but it was back to normal after a restart. This shouldn't have happened.
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
... and also saw 13.4 and wondered why it was so low.

I’m going out on a limb, but anything over 12v should be “acceptable” if not ideal. Maybe we both saw it when there was a heavy electrical load, but the alternator had cycled out of charging for some reason?

My car was back to over 14volts shortly after I noticed and nothing seemed to actually be wrong with the charging system.

I have had my locks dance up and back down when trying to open the door. If I let go of the handle and then grab it again, it seems to work fine. Must be something to do with how it senses touch.
Spool,
So I'm not alone with this 13.4 thing. It happened to you as well. The alternator doesn't cycle off when the voltage hits 14. Otherwise the voltage would go up and down between 12. 8 and 14.3 constantly.

Concerning your "limb," it didn't hold your weight. Mama warned me years ago not to crawl out on limbs :) The car's voltage won't stay over 14 for even 2 seconds once the alternator stops charging. I've tested this with a volt meter and know this to be true. It is indeed normal for the voltage to sit just over 14 all the time when the car is running, not just on our Challenger, but on cars, trucks, motorcycles, you name it. It is not normal for it to drop below that point without heavy extra loads. Concerning the idea of running any power hungry accessories: nothing was running, just the lights. And they use nothing compared to what that alternator puts out, even at idle. But thanks for weighing in here. At least I know that I'm not the only one that's seen this 13.4 voltage while driving around town.

I had a 2015 Scat Pack (just traded it in for a 2018 R/T 5.7), and my battery was slowly going bad a few months ago. Right before the lease ended, of course...grrr. But the only symptom was a "hitch" in starting it that was getting progressively worse until it finally died after having it on accessory with the radio playing for 45 minutes. Got a jump then went straight to Walmart to buy a 770 CCA battery (our factory batteries are 730 CCA). The odd thing is that I had the tech at Walmart check the battery with his tester and he said it was fine, but I knew it had to be replaced based on the symptoms. I bought a new one anyway and everything was fine afterwards.

On these cars, I don't think it takes much drop on battery voltage to cause the types of problems you're describing...I suspect you should replace it. It may test OK like mine did, but that doesn't seem to be the whole story with these cars. Also, I noticed the running voltage with my bad battery was 13.9-14.0 and it jumped to 14.0-14.1 with the new battery...not much of a difference. One of my coworkers has a 2015 300C that was having a number of weird symptoms...namely gauges and lights acting strangely. His car was cranking and starting OK, but he replaced the battery and everything was fine. Hope this helps.
Ken:
Your point about lower voltages causing problems may be valid here. The volt meter said 12.1 a while after I left the car sitting. That may be telling me something here.
 

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I've noticed lately that I don't see the 13.2-13.3 V readouts that would turn up every 5th / 6th start (and this could be 1st cold start of day or next startup after driving early in day...).

Normal voltage is consistently 14.3-14.4 V same as what my '09 R/T would display (hidden EVIC screen on that one)

Either its due to the ganked-up uConnect update (17.11.07) that whacked my engine Sport mode operation or the ambient temps have been low 40s to low 30s this time of year. And like many others, still waiting on FCA to "fix" the bad update for my '16 (M6).

I run the virtual gauges on the Perf Pages screen all the time - so I'll go to gauges 2 screen and view voltage to check it. Haven't seen this for the past two months. [haven't driven the SP except on weekends to head off to C & C events - in 32* weather if its not actively raining]

The only glitch that I occasionally see is the "no SD card" - but I'll ignore it and after a few seconds it finds it and plays normally.

the keyless door handles work well - every now and then I'll have to wait a split second and they'll respond, even with lined gloves since the weather is cooling down quite a bit now.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I've noticed lately that I don't see the 13.2-13.3 V readouts that would turn up every 5th / 6th start (and this could be 1st cold start of day or next startup after driving early in day...).

Normal voltage is consistently 14.3-14.4 V same as what my '09 R/T would display (hidden EVIC screen on that one)

Either its due to the ganked-up uConnect update (17.11.07) that whacked my engine Sport mode operation or the ambient temps have been low 40s to low 30s this time of year. And like many others, still waiting on FCA to "fix" the bad update for my '16 (M6).

I run the virtual gauges on the Perf Pages screen all the time - so I'll go to gauges 2 screen and view voltage to check it. Haven't seen this for the past two months. [haven't driven the SP except on weekends to head off to C & C events - in 32* weather if its not actively raining]

The only glitch that I occasionally see is the "no SD card" - but I'll ignore it and after a few seconds it finds it and plays normally.

the keyless door handles work well - every now and then I'll have to wait a split second and they'll respond, even with lined gloves since the weather is cooling down quite a bit now.
Hal,
Thank you for your response. I've been watching the voltage for several days. Never thought to count the number of startups between occurrences. However, every 5th time (or so) sounds about right. One thing I have NOT done yet is tested the actual voltage with my electric meter WHILE the readout says 13.4... have you?
Ha... this is funny: I did't even know whee the battery was as I hadn't even thought about it up until last week.

Updates: I have not updated the uConnect since I bought the car in June. The readout asks me to do so every time I turn the car off, but with all the negativity surrounding these updates, I've avoided it. Unless I hear some good reason from the forum update the thing, I might just avoid doing this forever.
 

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Hal,
Thank you for your response. I've been watching the voltage for several days. Never thought to count the number of startups between occurrences. However, every 5th time (or so) sounds about right. One thing I have NOT done yet is tested the actual voltage with my electric meter WHILE the readout says 13.4... have you?
Ha... this is funny: I did't even know whee the battery was as I hadn't even thought about it up until last week.

Updates: I have not updated the uConnect since I bought the car in June. The readout asks me to do so every time I turn the car off, but with all the negativity surrounding these updates, I've avoided it. Unless I hear some good reason from the forum update the thing, I might just avoid doing this forever.
No I haven't often its happened as I'm driving off (since it takes ~ 45 seconds for the PP app to ready)

I have however put high electrical loads:
>HVAC fan on High
>Both seat heaters On
>steering wheel heat On
>rear defog On
>headlights On
>foglights On

and the voltage will continue to regulate 13.3-13.4V so the alternator is keeping the system from discharging the battery.

I've wondered if this is to intentionally "cycle" battery and not keep it constantly 100% charged at full rated voltage - perhaps for the system to check for low voltage conditions.

The times when this turns up - I'm driving back from running an errand, away from home...so I don't have my DVM on hand to check it.

As I noted in prior posts - the last two updates seem to improve the launch speed of apps.

Performance Pages:
>faster start up
>seamless switch back to PP from Phone or Nav screens
>no longer have PP freeze
>no "0" PSI displays
>Virtual Gauges stopped having lower 13.3V display that appeared on occasion [shows 14.1-14.4V consistently]

Navigation
>faster start up
>selection Options / Display are instant
>entry of destination information doesn't hesitate / get stuck

Media:
>titles work correctly when PP is active



Drawback: 17.11.07 update messed up Sport mode for engine operation
 

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None of these are cliches. The alternator has a power management system on it which adjusts the output as needed. The door handle is heat sensitive with cold hands sometimes you have to wait a second. Some people I have seen turn down the radio volume hitting the mute button does not turn it up. There is no off button When you restart the car your system sets the volume you have selected in settings. I have updated both my cars since it came out no problems, The system now runs faster and the GPS has been upgraded and enhanced.
 

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‘16 SRT392 here. I’ve had that door latch issue a couple times. Had to pause for a second or two for it to unlock. Figured I had just tried to pull up on the latch too quickly after putting my hand on it to activate the lock.
I haven’t found an on/off feature on my radio. Most I can do is mute it. Thought I read that that’s normal.
It took me awhile to figure out why the radio randomly switched to my iPhone music. It didn’t do it all the time and when it did, I just pushed the radio icon for the source I wanted. I then discovered that the music source defaults to the phone when plugged into the USB. I was just using the usb to charge the phone, hence the random nature of it. I now use the charging port next to it. I’m so stupid it took me a couple weeks to nail that one down.
I’ll keep an eye on my volt meter to see if I have the same issue you described.


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Al A,

Quick question, is this what your controls are like for your SRT392? If so, pushing the volume button is the on/off switch. Apologies in advance if you already knew this. Just thought this might help:smile:
 

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Thanks, CS. Mine is different, and pushing the button yields the “muted” message on the screen. Appreciate your comment; no need for apologies. I’ve had this car for nearly two years, and still discover something new on occasion.



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Discussion Starter #13
Finding myself feeling very thankful for this forum. I've thought about this stuff for awhile but never posted anything about it as I assumed it wasn't much of a problem. So glad to hear that the volt meter issue may not be a glitch. Anxious to test the system with my volt meter when it happens again. Thus far it hasn't: still waiting.

Thanks for the feedback on the uConnect updates. I will look into that AFTER I check the voltage. Door handle: guess my Camry spoiled me. The door handle worked first time every time without hesitation. Nice feature when it was pouring and every second mattered. Never had to fumble for the key fob to unlock the doors: important when arms are full of groceries. Yeah... I do all the shopping. Mom's not able to get out much and it's just her and I here at the house now that Kelly got married in September.

Hope you all had a wonderful Christmas: we sure did. Santa brought me a Yellow Jacket car jack from Northern Tool. Got it on sale for 169. I finally have a jack that I can't lift (130 pounds) but it lifts the Challenger with ease. Love the long throw of that lift arm.

HOHOHO...
 

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Hope you all had a wonderful Christmas: we sure did. Santa brought me a Yellow Jacket car jack from Northern Tool. Got it on sale for 169. I finally have a jack that I can't lift (130 pounds) but it lifts the Challenger with ease. Love the long throw of that lift arm.

HOHOHO...
Wow - that must be an extended nose / low profile jack to weigh that much...

My low profile (full size) jack is 77# and I'd rather not lift that (I have herniated L4, L5 discs) since the consequences to my lower back would be bad...
 

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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
The Jack: it's larger than most jacks I've seen. The lift arm it noticeably longer than my 1 1/2 ton jack. Ha. I can indeed lift it, but it's seriously heavy. After checking the Northern Tool website, looks like my new jack is 113 lbs.
Here's a picture of the thing in case anybody cares: CLICKY HERE

Sorry to hear about your back, Hal. That's a bummer to have to deal with something like that day in and day out. Does it cause you a lot of pain each day?
My back: At 62, I'm pleased to say mine's in great shape, I've been blessed in that department.

The electric system: Today, the car did it twice, once on the way to the store, and then again on the way back. I checked the voltage at the remote terminal (passenger side of the engine bay) while the car was still running. My meter showed a couple tenths high, but the one I grabbed is a cheap meter. It could be off a bit. Here's the results:

Engine idling, voltage gauge in car: 13.4 Meter read 13.8

Shut car off, restarted. Gauge in car: 14.3 Meter read 14.7

So that answers one question, does the meter in the car give an accurate assessment of actual voltage? The verdict, confirmed by my trusty Harbor Freight volt meter, is yes. Therefore I've learned that my voltage glitch probably isn't a glitch, but rather something designed into the car. Weird, though, as I've never seen this before.
 

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I read you saw a 12.1 Volts at some point? That could be to low technically. 12.1 means a battery is 25% charged.

My 2015 SRT Jeep has all kinds of thing like you said. Come and go glitches.

1. Door locks auto lock immediately or dont lock at all or lock once you driven over 30 mph.

2. Radio lags on channel switch sometimes up to 30 seconds.

3. Auto sense/ speed wipers quit working until the Uconnect software upgrade, Im guessing the reboot fixed it. I was just getting used to there operation when they stopped working last year.

Today on the highway at about 75 mpg the battery voltage was 15v. Never saw it that high before and cant think of a reason why it would be.

That why I like my 2011 Challenger better and better less to go wrong!.
 

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Sorry to hear about your back, Hal. That's a bummer to have to deal with something like that day in and day out. Does it cause you a lot of pain each day?
My back: At 62, I'm pleased to say my it's in great shape, I've been blessed in that department.
Thankfully my back doesn't bother me nowadays. Had first major disc rupture in Summer 2014 and then then next in October 2015...once you have that happen and the ensuing pain and inflammation that takes 30 days to recover (somewhat). The recovery to gain back strength and loss of numbness /pain takes months afterward.

Ironically both occurred doing mundane, easy things - its just everything wasn't in great shape - slipped discs and the herniation (disc rupture) was a consequence of years of doing whatever I did for years. Its also the wear and tear + getting older...

I learned by doing physical therapy / strengthening exercises 2x day all the time that helped the most. Its taken time, but my back feels the best in years since all the muscles are strong and support everything else. I want to avoid surgery (that's a last resort) and by exercising, it keeps everything working.

Lifting 130# jacks by myself would be a big no-no. I can do everything normally, I can lift the ~ 60# tire/wheel assembly when rotating tires on my Challenger.

I couple of years ago, I'd feel that pull and cause back pain - don't have the issue now.

Sounds like your investigation adds support to what must be a periodic cycling of battery / charging system. Your climate is warmer - mines in the 20s - 30s and I'll have to see if mine will do it again once the weather gets warmer in the Spring.
 

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Discussion Starter #18 (Edited)
Thankfully my back doesn't bother me nowadays. Had first major disc rupture in Summer 2014 and then then next in October 2015...once you have that happen and the ensuing pain and inflammation that takes 30 days to recover (somewhat). The recovery to gain back strength and loss of numbness /pain takes months afterward.

Ironically both occurred doing mundane, easy things - its just everything wasn't in great shape - slipped discs and the herniation (disc rupture) was a consequence of years of doing whatever I did for years. Its also the wear and tear + getting older...

I learned by doing physical therapy / strengthening exercises 2x day all the time that helped the most. Its taken time, but my back feels the best in years since all the muscles are strong and support everything else. I want to avoid surgery (that's a last resort) and by exercising, it keeps everything working.

Lifting 130# jacks by myself would be a big no-no. I can do everything normally, I can lift the ~ 60# tire/wheel assembly when rotating tires on my Challenger.

I couple of years ago, I'd feel that pull and cause back pain - don't have the issue now.

Sounds like your investigation adds support to what must be a periodic cycling of battery / charging system. Your climate is warmer - mines in the 20s - 30s and I'll have to see if mine will do it again once the weather gets warmer in the Spring.
Really glad you took control of this matter and are willing to be proactive in taking care of your back. Nobody wants to be trying to live with pain everyday, especially if it can be avoided by making wise choices and being willing to exercise as recommended by a good doctor. Great to hear, Hal, that the physical therapy is working out so well for you. Sounds like your doing very weil with it.

Periodic cycling of the system: this is interesting. I was looking for answers to what I thought were electronic gremlins, and it turns out that we have discovered something new about these cars that we did not know before. Once again, this forum flexes it's collaborative muscle to reveal something that we just couldn't find out any other way.

Now I would wonder if anybody has actually talked to a dealership tech about this voltage cycling process that Dodge seems to have programmed in to these cars. My first question would be... Why?
 

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The battery in my 2004 Ram lasted almost 13 years. The battery in my 2015 Challenger lasted 2.5 years. I bought the car from a dealership over 2000 miles away, and had to have it shipped. They sent it out with bald tires, and a battery that needed to be jump started, so I guess I don't actually know if it was the original battery or not. Dead battery, missing Brass Monkey wheels, and bald tires and wheels from a Hellcat. I think maybe they figured out a way to stick it to a yankee.

Unfortunately, the transport driver had to buy a battery for my car on the way here, so I didn't get a chance to see the date code on the battery he replaced. But, there is a chance we are getting crappy batteries out of Brampton.
 

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Still going strong with original battery on my 2003 Dakota. Ask Nuke! Purchased the Challenger 2 years ago. Let’s see which battery lasts longer.


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