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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Well, I finally got around to putting on my manifolds. I have to order some gasless flux core stainless steel mig wire to finish up for my collector reducers. Seems like stainless anyway. Does anyone know what kind of material it is? Also, I guess they might have changed the O2 sensor connectors recently. My O2 extension does not plug in. Luckily, I didn't need it anyway I guess. The center two port on the cast manifold are very restricted. I got the manifolds, bolts, gaskets, and mids for 260 bucks locally. They are off a 13 Charger with 4k miles.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 · (Edited)
Here are pics of the middle two cast ports. Also, for some reason my Window 8.1 does not enlarge pics when I click on them anymore for some reason. Is there a stting I need to change?
 

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I doubt seriously that the exhaust manifolds are cast stainless steel. Try a magnet.
 

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I doubt seriously that the exhaust manifolds are cast stainless steel. Try a magnet.
He was referring to the original manifolds being cast and restrictive, the SRT manifolds are shorty headers made out of stainless tubing (Not cast). :thumbsup:
 

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He was referring to the original manifolds being cast and restrictive, the SRT manifolds are shorty headers made out of stainless tubing (Not cast). :thumbsup:
Thanks for the clarification. :icon_biggrin:
 

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I have a question that I really could't find in this thread. Can I just bolt up the SRT manifolds to my 2010 RT without doing anything else and get some improvements like a little more power and better flow without losing the low end torque?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I'm not certain but I believe it helps HP and TQ.
 

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I have a question that I really could't find in this thread. Can I just bolt up the SRT manifolds to my 2010 RT without doing anything else and get some improvements like a little more power and better flow without losing the low end torque?

Pretty much yes. You need header bolts, new gaskets and some type of exhaust shop make them fit for whatever exhaust you're running. I went with stock 6.4 manifolds, stock 6.4 down pipes with the cats so it was basically a plug and play. My borla system bolted right up. The passenger side O2 sensor will be super tight but a little unwrapping from the tape and it will connect.

There is a noticeable increase in top end power. It pulls hard and strong toward the top of the rpm band. It is a worthwhile investment. It took me about 9 hours using a lift and 2 other guys. I have not changed my tune yet to compensate for the additional flow.

If you'd like to do some reading, there's several old threads on here with detailed explanations on how to do this or the exact part numbers. It's definitely worth it. You can find stock 6.1 and 6.4 manifolds for sale for around $200 and stock downpipes are selling for around that as well. It'll cost you about $40 in parts, being the gaskets and bolts with shipping. So in reality, for less than $500, you can have shorties installed and a strong running car.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
I just got he mids put on this evening. I thought they were 409 stainless but could not get my stainless wire to weld it. Ended up just using the standard flux core after all this waiting around. I cranked it on the ramps but just left the car on them for one more day since I want to change the oil anyway.
I also got a Trinity tuner but want to leave the tune alone to test just the headers for now.
 

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Stainless tubing grades

I just got he mids put on this evening. I thought they were 409 stainless but could not get my stainless wire to weld it. Ended up just using the standard flux core after all this waiting around. I cranked it on the ramps but just left the car on them for one more day since I want to change the oil anyway.
I also got a Trinity tuner but want to leave the tune alone to test just the headers for now.
More often than not exhaust tubing is 3xx series stainless steel with 304 and 321 being common.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Any noticeable sound difference? I'm deciding between these or long tubes.
Sorry, it has not even made it out of the garage. I did change the oil and pull it off the ramps. Hopefully I will have a better answer by Saturday. Feels like it revs smoother and quicker but then again, I haven't driven it in a week or two.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Ok, I changed out the dip stick tube for my SRT headers. Do I need to change the actual dipstick as well or are they the same?
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Well, I finally got to take my car out. Seems more responsive and accelerates a little quicker and easier too. Now to play with this Trinity tuner. Not sure if I even want to tune the car but Ill mess with it a little.
 
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