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Discussion Starter #1
So with W-2's being released at the end of the month, I'm getting ready to drop off my car and a new part at the dealer for installation and complaints again..

Just thought I'd bounce my problems off everyone here again and see if anyone has any recommendations or ideas that I should bring up with the service department.

I'll try and recap my story in as few words as possible:

2009 Challenger R/T bought new with 81 miles on it (Dealer had to transfer it from another nearby dealership) in April 2009. I did two back to back deployments so it only had about 9,000 miles on it until I got shore-duty at the beginning of 2011. It's been my daily driver and done a few road trips since then, I think I have about 53k miles now.

Mid-2011 I started complaining that my idle speed would randomly adjust itself, mostly it idles at between 700-900 rpms, but occassionally, with the car in gear (6-spd tremec) and the clutch depressed, the idle would stick somewhere between 1500-2000 rpms. The worst it ever did was get stuck at 2500rpms. The lower sticks, were normally in the morning on first start, so I almost agreed that maybe it was just cold and revving to warm up, but come on, I'm in Southern California.. somehow I don't think it's THAT cold.. the 2500rpm stick occurred after about an hour on the freeway at 65+. I was driving through a neighborhood and coasting between stop signs and it wouldn't stop revving. Tried releasing the clutch in neutral, tapping brakes, tapping gas, turning the car off while rolling and back on, nothing, it was stuck at 2500rpms. That was when I brought it back to find out what's wrong and they told me the "warming-up" story.. :6:

My windows have almost never rolled up or down at the same speed, but it's never just the driver's or passenger side. If i stop when the faster one finishes, the other is off by at least 1.5 inches. Dealer says that the windows put such a large load on the system that whichever received the signal first gets more power.. Sounds like bullshit, but i let it slide too..

I get the 000039 error on starting probably once every 3-4 weeks. Low voltage is what the book says. I shrugged that off too when I still had the original stock battery, but it's been happening more frequently since I installed a 1000w Optima red top. All grounds I've ever touched have been sufficiently retightened and checked. Dealer never had an answer for that.

In August 2011, the Clockspring module in the steering column broke. It was replaced under warranty, no explanation on how it broke, was told they don't see that one very often so they weren't sure.. Well, this last November it broke again (same exact symptoms as the last time), but the warranty on the warranty repair was only good for 2 years, so it was just past.

I'm going to order the part using the above link because it is $170+shipping there and the dealer wants $260, then pay them $180 to install it. I'd do it myself, but without a starscan tool, I can't reset the airbag and prevent it going off randomly..

I also had a problem with an idiotic O'Reilly's employee who wouldn't let me remove my own battery with borrowed tools. He disconnected the negative side first :mah:, and ground it out in the trunk, frying my TIPM in the process. I bought a new TIPM and installed it per factory instructions.

So am I just whining? or has anyone else had a handful of seemingly random problems too? It seems most posts here are about MPG and modifications.. :dunno:
 

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I know the couple of Challengers I've been in, along with mine, if you try and roll up both windows at the same time they don't go up at the same speed.... dealer is probably right on that.

I used to work at an O'Reilly's and we always let people use our tools to do stuff like take out their old batteries for exchange.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I know the couple of Challengers I've been in, along with mine, if you try and roll up both windows at the same time they don't go up at the same speed.... dealer is probably right on that.

I used to work at an O'Reilly's and we always let people use our tools to do stuff like take out their old batteries for exchange.

yeah, i never had a problem before with any other car in other cities (I've moved a lot).. but this guy INSISTED and wouldn't even hand me the tool.. I was pissed because they refused to sell me a battery without the core. I told em I was going to buy it outright, go home (3 minute drive) swap it out and bringit back for a core refund, and they claimed to need some number off the old battery..

Once they saw the stock battery, the dumbass manager argued with me for 10 minutes that the Optima was physically smaller and therefore not the right battery for my car and wouldn't work right.. I had to explain to her how electricity works and that I was replacing a 750w battery with a 1000w one and it works fine in my '72 beetle so I'm sure it's not going to be too much power in my 2009 Dodge... : facepalm :
 

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I know the couple of Challengers I've been in, along with mine, if you try and roll up both windows at the same time they don't go up at the same speed.... dealer is probably right on that.
Same here, which is completely normal I believe.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
maybe I'm over reacting with the window thing, I'm just used to cars with windows that move at the same speeds..
 

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Yeah, I feel your pain, man. Neither my R/T nor my previous Charger R/T, also in SoCal, ever went over 1,100-1,200 rpm at startup then they always came down within a few seconds. 2,500 in cold weather is BS.

That window explanation... I know that my Crown Vic was always straining to push its windows up, especially several at a time, and Ford had what felt like a stronger electrical system than Dodge's. On the Charger Forums a few years back someone a lot more tech savvy than me claimed that Dodge didn't know how to do current regulation, and that many grounds were shoddy while some wires were undersize. I don't know enough to say either way, but I did notice my headlights dimming when I depress the brake pedal at night, and the flickering headlights syndrome comes up on Dodge forums here and there. So there might be some truth to the electrical woes theories. Too much of that voodoo 39 cold weather/low voltage stuff going around too in my book.

The big problem with electrical is the time involved in diagnosing so people tend to tell you that whatever you complain about is in your head or normal. They just hope you'll go away. :bang:

My Charger was a lemon and a money pit that I put up with for 2 years. If my Challenger had given me any hint of being possessed too (it seems solid), I would've cut my losses and dumped it. I think it's just the luck of the draw and the more your car is handled by others, the more problems arise (as you saw), so I bought a no-options car and stay out of shops as much as I can.

Best of luck with your ride - you're probably even more frustrated due to the physical distance. And it would be nice to be able to enjoy it whenever you have some precious CONUS time. :ugh2:
 

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The windows in my 07 Charger went up at different speeds, just like the windows in my 13 Challenger do now. I think it really is normal. :)
 

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I'm going to order the part using the above link because it is $170+shipping there and the dealer wants $260, then pay them $180 to install it. I'd do it myself, but without a starscan tool, I can't reset the airbag and prevent it going off randomly..
Clockspring can be replaced without starscan. I did it on my 2011 when I installed the SRT heated steering wheel. Just disconnect battery and let set for about 5 min before disconnecting airbag wires. When replacing, make sure to NOT break off red tabs untill installed. If you want to take a stab at it, I did a write up on here when I changed it out. Might want to look it up under my posts.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Clockspring can be replaced without starscan. I did it on my 2011 when I installed the SRT heated steering wheel. Just disconnect battery and let set for about 5 min before disconnecting airbag wires. When replacing, make sure to NOT break off red tabs untill installed. If you want to take a stab at it, I did a write up on here when I changed it out. Might want to look it up under my posts.
I'd love to save the $180 on service, your write up looks pretty straightforward, but knowing my luck I'd somehow get the wheel re-installed 90* off or something ;)

plus I want to have them rescan/reset my computer and check for any and all technical bulletins..
 

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I'll try and recap my story in as few words as possible:

2009 Challenger R/T bought new with 81 miles on it (Dealer had to transfer it from another nearby dealership) in April 2009. I did two back to back deployments so it only had about 9,000 miles on it until I got shore-duty at the beginning of 2011. It's been my daily driver and done a few road trips since then, I think I have about 53k miles now.

Mid-2011 I started complaining that my idle speed would randomly adjust itself, mostly it idles at between 700-900 rpms, but occasionally, with the car in gear (6-spd tremec) and the clutch depressed, the idle would stick somewhere between 1500-2000 rpms. The worst it ever did was get stuck at 2500rpms.
The lower sticks, were normally in the morning on first start, so I almost agreed that maybe it was just cold and revving to warm up, but come on, I'm in Southern California.. somehow I don't think it's THAT cold.. the 2500rpm stick occurred after about an hour on the freeway at 65+.
I was driving through a neighborhood and coasting between stop signs and it wouldn't stop revving. Tried releasing the clutch in neutral, tapping brakes, tapping gas, turning the car off while rolling and back on, nothing, it was stuck at 2500rpms.
That was when I brought it back to find out what's wrong and they told me the "warming-up" story.. :6:
:dunno:
With my stock 5.7 tune (I began running a DS canned tune Summer '13, a few months before I did my cam swap...), I used to get the very occasional 2K rpm "hang" - mine would do it once warmed up. I would do this for ~ 5-6 seconds, but it was so random (several weeks between occurences) I didn't bother with it.

With the DS canned tune or my CMR tune, I don't have the 2K idle issue...

Windows both run up/down at the same rate, I suspect you may have a regulator that isn't lubed or is binding that would cause that, or a PW motor that is weaker than the other.

The 00039 code only turned up when my RRT replacement batter had a bad cell after 3 weeks in service...4.5+ years later it works flawlessly in the hot or cold with no code.

I suspect the TIPM might need to be re-flashed, or you have a parasitic power draw that brings the battery down, but not dead...some of these cars had WIN modules, uConnect module or Canbus or amplifiers that wouldn't idle down and go to sleep and they would cause these drains.

The SRT Kicker amps were notorious for that issue, even up through the '11s...for example.

The way to diagnose this is to observe the power draw:
*Right after shutdown (all lights, doors, trunk closed/off, alarm not on)
*then check after 2 minutes
*then check after 5 minutes

The residual power draw should drop off after the modules and Canbus go to sleep and the only thing should be the PCM drawing power for memory...that would be about it.
 

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My only gripe so far with my new car is.......I hate how I have to reach back to grab the seat belt. It needs to be 2 inches more forward. AND.....I hate that I have to keep washing it !:liar:
 
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Never paid any attention to the window speed,are you doing both at once?I don't do that anyway! Hardly roll windows in TX,is either blazing hot,or cold, not much in between!

I have an 06 Charger had a light trans.seal leak right after I got it,and thats it,no other issues,drove the dog out of it since new,and I mean since the first day I had it,was doing smokey burnouts,thats how I break in a car! Always!
Owned more Dodges than I wish to count,and never wasted an engine!
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Well, I bought a new clockspring from moparpartsoverstock.com and dropped it off today. Initial quote is for parts installation, and a coupon for a 5.7 tune up (new plugs, filters, computer diagnostic, etc..) is $400..

I also told them that I'm still having the same idle speed issue i've been complaining about for 3 years now. and if I didn't know it was drive-by-wire, I'd be complaining that my clutch cable is stretched because if I start it in gear, it lunges forward like the clutch isn't fully engaged..

I dropped it off at 0800, it's now 1600.. I called at about 1500 and they said t would be a couple more hours, it was on the rack then..

I hope this fixes some shit and I also hope I don't have to replace the clockspring AGAIN in another couple of years. I'm going to be pissed if I do..
 

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Sorry to hear about your problems with the car.

1 thing that I don't get and somebody explain this one to me. "He disconnected the negative side first
, and ground it out in the trunk, frying my TIPM in the process."

I thought disconnecting the negative side first was always the correct procedure. I thought that prevented you from frying anything. Somebody educate me on this please.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Sorry to hear about your problems with the car.

1 thing that I don't get and somebody explain this one to me. "He disconnected the negative side first
, and ground it out in the trunk, frying my TIPM in the process."

I thought disconnecting the negative side first was always the correct procedure. I thought that prevented you from frying anything. Somebody educate me on this please.
With the modern computerized BS, if you disconnect the positive wire and touch it to a ground, it simply clears all the stored memory from any chips that store things.. however, if you leave the positive wire connected and touch the ground wire to a ground, it sends a surge of stored electricity through all those chips and over loads them.. It's basically the difference between safely discharges a capacitor and daring your friend to touch both terminals with a screwdriver, both will get rid of stored energy, but one will render the tool (the chips or your friend ;) ) inoperable until repaired.. :p

at least that has been my understanding.. normally yes, you would want to remove the ground wire first, but that is assuming you don't plan on touching that ground wire to a metal surface that ISN'T the batteries ground connection..
 
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With the modern computerized BS, if you disconnect the positive wire and touch it to a ground, it simply clears all the stored memory from any chips that store things.. however, if you leave the positive wire connected and touch the ground wire to a ground, it sends a surge of stored electricity through all those chips and over loads them.. It's basically the difference between safely discharges a capacitor and daring your friend to touch both terminals with a screwdriver, both will get rid of stored energy, but one will render the tool (the chips or your friend ;) ) inoperable until repaired.. :p

at least that has been my understanding.. normally yes, you would want to remove the ground wire first, but that is assuming you don't plan on touching that ground wire to a metal surface that ISN'T the batteries ground connection..
This sounds like BS to me as well. Operational grounding of automobiles is still negative battery post to body via cable and bolt, and then via ground straps and bolts from body to motor, tranny etc...Letting the inert negative battery cable touch the floor pan when disconnected from the battery should cause a big fat nothing to occur.

For you people new to electricity, it flows from Negative to Positive. Once the negative connection from the battery is severed, no flow of electrons can happen from that battery.

However, if you ground out the positive side of a capacitor or a battery, well watch out then!
 

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tattooed -
On the clutch feeling that it is not fully engaged - there is a TSB on that issue for our R/T's. The transmission needs to be dropped, cleaned and relubed with a different lube than they came with. I had the same issue and after the rework (warranty) it went away. Check the forum TSB page and it's there. At least have them check it out because that issue can be a real pain in the a##.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
This sounds like BS to me as well. Operational grounding of automobiles is still negative battery post to body via cable and bolt, and then via ground straps and bolts from body to motor, tranny etc...Letting the inert negative battery cable touch the floor pan when disconnected from the battery should cause a big fat nothing to occur.

For you people new to electricity, it flows from Negative to Positive. Once the negative connection from the battery is severed, no flow of electrons can happen from that battery.

However, if you ground out the positive side of a capacitor or a battery, well watch out then!

I agree that your description is what normally happens, but I was standing next to the guy who dropped the negative cable in my trunk when he did it.. There was clearly a quick fireworks show as sparks flew before it was able to grab it again.
 

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tattooed -
On the clutch feeling that it is not fully engaged - there is a TSB on that issue for our R/T's. The transmission needs to be dropped, cleaned and relubed with a different lube than they came with. I had the same issue and after the rework (warranty) it went away. Check the forum TSB page and it's there. At least have them check it out because that issue can be a real pain in the a##.

I'll have to look for that, they'll probably try and charge me since I'm not under warranty anymore.. :indifferent:
 

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You ought to bring it to their attention. My R/T came with a lifetime drivetrain warranty. Yours probably did too. So, if that's the case - they have to honor the TSB. Check on the length of the warranty to see if you also have the lifetime.
 
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