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2015 RT 5.7 M6
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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited by Moderator)
Long story but I learned my lesson.

So drove the R/T to work today and went out for lunch to get some rental vids for the family. Did some spirited driving on my way to work and parked the car. You can hear the headers crackling as the were cooling down...it was +95F outside. 5pm rolls around and my co-worker (and good friend) asked if I can walk with him to his car because he has a weedwacker he wants me to look at for him (we discussed this on Monday so I was like OK). I grab my laptop, head out to his car, grab the weedwacker and proceed to walk across the parking lot to my Challenger.

Go to the trunk and it does not open, go to the driver door and it does not open, press the dongle nothing...I am like WTF is the battery dead? Get the key out from the fob and unlock the driver door...alarm goes off. Hit the fob to turn it off...nothing, press the ignition button but it just illuminates "OFF". Finally I hit the unlock button on the door and the alarm turns off. I figure the voltage is low so I go back in the office and grab a jump start battery pack. I disconnected the negative lead on the battery (in case something is draining the battery) and connected the battery pack which reads 15V. I connect the negative lead and battery pack and try to start the car and still nothing. The cluster was dead. I was like...did the heat from the headers melt a harness or something? Mind you it is still +90F and the evening sun is beating down on me. Rest my sweaty head on the head rest and proceed to yell the mother of all swear words.

No one is in the parking lot to give me a ride home and the wife was not answering her phone (was washing the dog I later found out). I was about to call a tow truck and uber driver until I realized...hey why is the cluster not working? Could it be that the wires I soldered to the can bus that I installed to sniff the bus (turns out doing this is not needed on a 2015 as DTC port is not firewalled or encrypted) from several days ago?

The 2 conductor cable which I used black insulating tape to prevent the wires from touch was sitting coiled up between the steering console and cluster which I almost forgot about. I go to grab the cable and next thing I know everything comes to life...cluster...chimes...Uconnect. I look at the end that has the insulating tap and it is all gooey from the heat. Apparently the low and high side of the bus shorted together which explains why everything appeared dead. Go to start the car and it starts but immediately dies and the security light is flashing.

Grab my obdlink and open alfaobd (never leave home without it) and find all these error codes in the PCM, BCM, ABS, Radio hub...etc. Start clearing them one module at a time and for good measure reset the ABS module as the dash was flashing ABS. Started the car again and thank God it started and stayed running...could not wait for the AC to kick in.

Anyways the lesson I learned is that I should have done a more thorough job making sure the wire ends were insulated with something more than tape which can heat up and unravel. Went home to drop of my laptop and weedwacker and headed out to another buddy's house to see if I can finally get launch control to work on his Charger. That's another story for a later time.
 

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‘15 R/T 6M STP
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So what you are saying is you found another way to keep your car from being stolen? Just short the canbus?

;)
 

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2015 SRT 392
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Glad that you figured it out and didn't get stranded in this Very Dangerous heat!
 

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2015 RT 5.7 M6
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Discussion Starter #5
So what you are saying is you found another way to keep your car from being stolen? Just short the canbus?

;)
Yup and the alarm will still work. Hopefully the short did not cause any permanent damage. Drove the car around town afterwards and no issues or codes. I have read of a person wiring up the can bus incorrectly (flipped the high and low) to the can bus shield and it cause the jeep he was working to go bonkers but no damage to the system. The sad thing is I was like...you know Chally...you might want to use a ziptie to hold the wires down as a safety precaution.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Glad that you figured it out and didn't get stranded in this Very Dangerous heat!
I could have just sat in the office but I did not want to leave my baby in the parking lot all by herself. Left the car home today so I can remove the cable first thing when I come home. Driving the liberty which a couple of weeks ago had the fuel filter o-ring fail and I lost a 1/4 tank of fuel over the 7 mile commute. I did smell fuel (plus it did take more cranks to start the engine) but oddly enough I had a different co-worker's weedwacker in the liberty at the time and I though the fuel vapors were coming from that. Pulled up to the driveway and went to the back of the jeep to grab the weedwaker and saw this huge wet spot (fuel) on the driveway. Looked under the chassis and fuel was pouring over the rear diff (filter is outside the tank, just in front of it and near the evap canister). Connection only leaked when the fuel pump was on. Took 3 days to get a new fuel filter but only 15 minutes to swap it out.
 

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I could have just sat in the office but I did not want to leave my baby in the parking lot all by herself. Left the car home today so I can remove the cable first thing when I come home. Driving the liberty which a couple of weeks ago had the fuel filter o-ring fail and I lost a 1/4 tank of fuel over the 7 mile commute. I did smell fuel (plus it did take more cranks to start the engine) but oddly enough I had a different co-worker's weedwacker in the liberty at the time and I though the fuel vapors were coming from that. Pulled up to the driveway and went to the back of the jeep to grab the weedwaker and saw this huge wet spot (fuel) on the driveway. Looked under the chassis and fuel was pouring over the rear diff (filter is outside the tank, just in front of it and near the evap canister). Connection only leaked when the fuel pump was on. Took 3 days to get a new fuel filter but only 15 minutes to swap it out.
Looks like the answer to all your problems is to stop borrowing other people's weedwackers...😂
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Looks like the answer to all your problems is to stop borrowing other people's weedwackers...😂
I am not borrowing them...fixing them. There all engineers but not one of them know how to turn a wrench.
 

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I am not borrowing them...fixing them. There all engineers but not one of them know how to turn a wrench.
I understood that, just ... ah man, where the emoticon of the smiley poking a smiley with a stick?!!?

Just thought it was funny that one of the common denominators in both stories was the weedwackers. The other was you but thought the weedwacker angle was more fun.

:ROFLMAO:
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I understood that, just ... ah man, where the emoticon of the smiley poking a smiley with a stick?!!?

Just thought it was funny that one of the common denominators in both stories was the weedwackers. The other was you but thought the weedwacker angle was more fun.

:ROFLMAO:
Lol yeah the is pretty ironic...but that is the type of luck I attract I guess. :(
 

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A saying comes to mind here, ”if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it””.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
A saying comes to mind here, ”if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it””.
Yeah, should have left it alone but the reason for tapping in the can bus at the cluster was to help out a forum member. We had a suspicion that maybe the OBD port was ffirewalled and that we were not seeing all the communications of the network. What I should have done was remove the cable when we found out it was not.
 

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You got really lucky, I couldn’t begin to guess the price tag if you fried the car’s electronics. If nothing is wrong now there shouldn’t be anything bad from this coming.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
You got really lucky, I couldn’t begin to guess the price tag if you fried the car’s electronics. If nothing is wrong now there shouldn’t be anything bad from this coming.
That's for sure...at a minimum the BCM would be shot as I think that is what generates the Can bus network.
 

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Your experience reminds me of working on a friend's '18 Hellcat WB - I was doing various things for him:
oil change / swap OEM pads for Power Stop / install catch can and lastly a Tazer

I was working on the Tazer installation using the rear harness in the trunk as the last item - the instructions didn't match the color coding, but I looked up things online.

Go to check it out after hooking things up - uConnect screen is dark and HVAC controls on console don't respond - had that "oh crap, what's wrong" moment. If I recall, I think the IP cluster was behaving differently than normal as well

then tried changing the two wires in question around, and still nothing.

I decide to remove the Tazer harness - and try it out. Everything works again, whew!

Tried to install it again and same results. I gave up and told the owner it didn't work - he was okay with it and sold the Tazer to someone else.
 
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