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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Ok...im going to give you guys a loose step by step on converting from stock halogens to the oem projector HID's.
(keep in mind..im replacing the complete housing to the projector lamps, my car did not have HIDS or projectors before)
Hopefully this little write up will help people who may want to do this in the future

:::pREP:::
Basically, in order to do this, you have to remove the entire front bumper cover. Its somewhat involved, but doable.
You must remove the service belly pan, the belly pan, part of the fender well liner and the front bumper cover(which has the grille and all).
You also probably want to jack your car up some so you can get to the underside
You really only need to jack up one side and get one stand under one side.

:::WHAT YOU NEED:::
For starters, you will obviously need new headlamp assemblies.
These are available through the dealer for over $700 a piece, without ballasts and without bulbs. I wouldnt go this route. Find someone selling some, or parting out a challenger, ebay etc.
If you do find someone selling some, make sure they come with the ballast, and bulb if possible.

Ballast Part number, 1 for driver side, 1 for passenger side
68033739AA

Im pretty sure the HID bulb part number is (ill verify later)
04865941AC

HID PROJECTOR Housing part numbers
05028778AA
05028779AA

Ive seen this seller on ebay (dodge dealer) sell them way cheaper than others
eBay My World - towbin_dodge


New plastic rivets from Dodge are almost $4 each!! I found these at auto zone..a tad different style...but work perfect, less than $3 for a box of 6. You will need these because chances are you will have to cut some off when removing the fender liner (see below)


The main issue so far, the halogen connectors are 3 pin, and the hid connector is 4 pin.
We have found the pinouts for the connectors. On the halogen, there is a ground, 1 hi beam driver, 1 low beam driver
On the HID there is the same, plus a 2nd ground.
The halogen set up on the challenger works like this.
The low beam wire gets power from the dash switch...runs a filament in the bulb. Switch to hi beam, the power on the low beam goes out, and now power goes to the high beam lead, and runs a different filament in the bulb. So both wires never have power at the same time (unless you pull back on the lever on the steering wheel).

On the HID, low beam powers the ballast/bulb. no power to the high beam line. When you switch to high beam, the bulb actually doesnt get brighter. There is a shutter inside the opens to let more light out. So, the problem is, when you switch to high beam..the voltage goes away from the low beam, like mentioned above. So what happens, the high beam line gets power..opens the shutter..but the light turns off. Because power wont stay on both at the same time.
The cars are programmed differently withing the vehicle config file to how the TIPM switches the voltage. There really isnt a way to change this (there is, but lets not talk about it). More on all this below


The missing link. I gotta thank my buddy daniel for figuring this needle in a haystack out
This is what you need to be able to wire in the 4 pin HID connection
You can see the part number...they sell for about $24 ea..highway robbery.



You will also need to reuse the old turn bulb and connector/socket.

(more to come)


:::REMOVING FRONT CLIP:::
1.There are 4 bolts i think that hold the 1 belly pan on that is further from the front of the car. Remove it
2. The belly pan that connects to the front spoiler has plastic clips/rivets that hold it in, they pull straight out.
there is also several small bolts along the underside of the front spoiler that need to be undone to remove the belly pan. Do all that, and remove it.
4. There are 3 plastic rivets in the fender wells that need removed. In theory, these just push through and you can get them out..im pretty sure thats a damn lie, i could only get 1 out..the rest i ripped apart. Do both sides


5. Remove the top radiator cover(the plastic piece that has the cup holders in it. They just pull out pretty easy.
6. Remove the 6 pins/rivets that are actually through the next black plastic piece below that first cover you just removed.


7. On the passenger side, almost behind the fog light..there is a harness connector. Un do it. It connects the fogs and parking lights to the car. No need to unplugg the fogs and parking lights individually.
8. Unplug the headlight connection behind the housing, both headlight and turn signal. There is a red tab on each..it slides back towards the back end of the connector..slide, the push and pull connector off
9. There are 2 nuts that need removed on top side of clip, one on each side of the car..to the outside edge of the headlight. remove nut from stud


10. There are only 2 more bolts to remove...remember those 3 rivets you removed in the fender liner..pull it back a little bit, behind it, right on the edge of the fender..facing forward, is another bolt. 1 on each fender well.
Thats its. Now carefully, but manly, pull the front off!

11. There are 3 bolts on each headlight..take off. Remember to have already unhooked the plugs! Pull. , seriously pull..its not gonna break. There is a metal stud on the back of the headlight with a ball on it..it kinda clicks into place on the frame..it takes a little force, but i promise..just pull..it comes off. When you get one off, you will see what i mean.


Reinstalling the front clip when you are done is obviously all in reverse..i put mine back together in about 15 minutes.


:::Wiring THE CONVERSION:::
After you have all your front end off, old lights off...DONT put the new lights in yet
1. You have to run an additional ground to each side of the car. I already put my car back together without taking pictures of this..but right behind, and down from the back of the headlights is a steel deck that already has a ground bolt on it with some grounds running to it. You can either get a big enough ring terminal to fit on that..or just drill a new hole for a new screw/bolt. I chose to just add a new one because i didnt have any ring terminals big enough to fit on the factor post.
Do this for both sides.
2.You need to disasemble the connector at the end of the harness
Here is how you take apart the connectors
Yours may be a different color, dont worry
This purple part comes out..on the side of the purple part is a small slot, use a small screw driver or similar and gently pry it out


Once you get it off...you will see the pin connectors locked into place...there is a little black tab..gently pry up on it, and slide the wire out the back



Originally i had hoped you could just wire it in to the new connector..run a 2nd ground and all would be good. When we tested it out..we missed something and thought all was well. As it turns out, there is a problem.
The wiring harness (aside from plug ends being different) that runs from the headlights to the dash is different on HID and halogen cars.
On the halogen setup..your power switches between low beam and high beam when each is turned on. The h13 halogen uses a dual filament bulb..and on low beams..1 filament is charged..and no power goes to the highbeam filament, and vice versa.

So when you switch to hi beam, the low beam doesnt get voltage anymore.
This poses a problem for the HID setup. the hi beam interupts power to the low beam when you turn the high beam on. So we have to get the low beam to stay on all the time..since what actually makes the projector brighter..isnt another bulb or filament or more voltage..its a shutter inside. So when you turn the high beam on, a solenoid inside moves a shutter to let out more light. So what was happening to me at first..The low beams would work, switch to high, and the light would go out, but the shutter would open. Couldnt figure out why. Well, as it turned out, the voltage changed from the low beam to high beam..and the low beam goes dead. So no light.
So i had to make a relay harness. When the high beam gets power, it triggers a relay, and the signal is then split off over to the low beam.
In a sense, you are tying the low wire to the high wire. But if you did that..it would stay on hi beam all the time. So the relay acts as a automatic switch.

You also need another relay ciruit to power the ballast, or else you will have flicker, even if you add a capacitor to the factory wiring, it will still flicker.
Another problem encountered..the old pins from the old connector were supossed to just plug in to the new connector...NOPE..just my luck. Im still working on a solution for this so i dont have to cut the ends off the 3 wire harness that feeds each headlight.

Nick at bfxenon has a dual relay harness with built in antiflicker cap..this is probably your best bet. We have discussed it over the past few weeks, and he should know exactly what you are talking about. Since i already have all this stuff from testing and trying to make it work, im just going to use my own harness.
Should you choose to make your own..here is how i ran mine, although there are a few different ways you could do it and get the same results.
Here is my version. Note: If you get flicker only when high beams are on, a 2nd capacitor might be needed in the high beam relay between the lead that goes out of relay to light and the ground. Probably wont happen though. This is to help you..if your car burns down, dont blame me..but mine has worked flawless. Im not a electronics wiz or electrician or certified anything..just did a lot of research and trial and error. Im confident it will work, but dont want some a*hole coming after me if they mess their car up ;)



If you do make your own, any generic relay from your local auto parts store will work. Just get two of them.
The capacitor is a 475uf 35v from radio shack. There are two kinds. 1 with both wires coming out of the same end, and one where there is one wire on each end..im sure either will work.


When you are done, put your car back together...pretty self explanatory!
You may need to do a few small adjustments to the headlight positions, there is a adjustment screw/nut on the back for this.



OLD HEADLAMPS



PROJECTORS-testing wiring







Video-car running, low beams and high beams, no flicker
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DngYgQN1R-0
 

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Discussion Starter #3
updated with some more info
 

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great post!

Subscribing as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
thanks man. This is a super easy mod. Im just trying to include a lot of details to give someone maybe too nervous to try the confidence to give it a whirl.
So far its up in the air wether or not a relay harness or load leveler will be needed. On the test wiring, the HID's fired right up and did not flicker. Although they say its possible to fail or start flickering later on down the road. I guess the issue is the amount of power it takes to initial fire them up. Also, others have mentioned the HAL system on LX models that monitors various functions, and the HAL system will think something is wrong because of the difference in wattage in the headlights. I havent confirmed how this works on the challenger.
 

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Nice work! :bigthumb: Subscribing also.
 

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usually a relay harness fix the problem with flickering but i personally encountered my hid bulbs going out after i installed them after about a week. i only did the hid conversion not the projectors
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Got most of the car put back together..i have 4 extra bolts..hmmmm. LOL.
Ill update the post later...final parts should be here WED. Hopefully by next weekend ill have the write-up completed.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
final parts are to be here tomorrow. Got the car back together minus actually wiring in the projectors.
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
I added to the fist post..but this part is the missing piece to the puzzle. This connector kit is what will make this conversion possible
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Some strange happenings. Hi beam works if I pull back the lever, but not if I push it forward. With the car not running, there is no flicker. When the car runs, flicker starts. More to come.
 

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i dont htink its much to worry about. that all has to do with the hid kit not ur projectors. less expensive fix that is. the bulb has some sort of mechanism that always it to readjust height of projection when u flick on the highs so it could be a issue with the hi/lo module in the harness.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Im not installing a HID KIT...its the oem factory HID setup. The ballast is made into the headlight. Im gonna get some resistors today and try to figure it out over the weekend
 

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Discussion Starter #14

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That really is strange, I don't think I've ever seen that one.
 

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Contact BFxenon. They were working on a projector conversion awhile back. Maybe they know the fix.
 

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Discussion Starter #17 (Edited)
i pmed him earlier..no reply yet though...hopefully someone knows..its just the hi beam thats the problem. I just got some caps from radio shack..that should lick the flicker..even though i still dont know why it would flicker only when the engine stars..
But what really eats at me is that when i switch to hi, the shutter inside moves..but makes the light go out. And that it works when you hold the lever back..thats what i cant figure out..i cant trouble shoot that. I dont know enough about the car or system to do that. But i am "this" close to making this work...and I really hope to..more so for the community sake....that and i havent been able to drive my car in two weeks, and spent alot of money on these headlights..lol
 

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it could also have something to do with the voltage being sent to the lights. in my car with the halogens i seem to notice a slight dimming in the headlights when rpms change slightly at idle. and im not the only person whose noticed that. with hids they might be more prone to problems with a change in voltage output. i believe it takes a lot to fire a bulb up so it might have sumthing to do voltage level
 

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Discussion Starter #20
it could also have something to do with the voltage being sent to the lights. in my car with the halogens i seem to notice a slight dimming in the headlights when rpms change slightly at idle. and im not the only person whose noticed that. with hids they might be more prone to problems with a change in voltage output. i believe it takes a lot to fire a bulb up so it might have sumthing to do voltage level

Well, actually..my thought right now, is that there are two solenoids in the housing. 1 to open the shutter...and 1 to hold the shutter open, and the solenoid to hold the shutter open isnt getting power. I just cant figure out why.
 
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