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Discussion Starter #1
Hey everyone,

I just bought a used 2009 Dodge Challenger SE. A couple weeks after buying it, I noticed the climate controls stopped working.

982215


I tried setting the blower on low, med, and high. Nothing. Tried cold air, hot air, and different defrost settings. Nothing. Even when I press the circulate air, AC, and rear defrost buttons they don’t light up.

However, if I drive the car around for a little, park, turn the car off, and back on, all the controls will work again. Except for circulate air, that button blinks when I press it. Sometimes I have to turn the car off and back on several times before the controls come back online.

I read some posts on this forum that suggested checking 10AMP R14 fuse in rear, but mine was fine. I replaced it just in case, but controls are still not working.

Was going to stop by dealership tomorrow. Just wanted to see if anyone experienced this problem. Thanks for any tips!
 

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Welcome to Challengertalk ;) When it doesn't work, no blower or anything? Might try disconnecting the negative battery cable for a couple of minutes, then reconnecting

Try this procedure

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982222

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Possible this could be the humidity sensor, would depend on if any code(s) stored


A Guy
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Hey guy,

Thanks for the warm welcome!

I have the manual HVAC system, but I'm not sure if the AC/Heater Control module has ever been replaced. I highly doubt it though. I don't see any blinking lights as if it were auto calculating upon each start up, which is what I've heard when people replace their AC/Heater Control modules.

Is the scan tool something I need to go to the dealership for? Or will Autozone / O'Reilys have this?

I will give that air circulating tutorial a try tomorrow morning.

Really appreciate the help!
 

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The scan tool would be a dealer, yes. You should be able to get any codes at an auto parts store though

A Guy
 

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Hey guy,

Thanks for the warm welcome!

I have the manual HVAC system, but I'm not sure if the AC/Heater Control module has ever been replaced. I highly doubt it though. I don't see any blinking lights as if it were auto calculating upon each start up, which is what I've heard when people replace their AC/Heater Control modules.

Is the scan tool something I need to go to the dealership for? Or will Autozone / O'Reilys have this?

I will give that air circulating tutorial a try tomorrow morning.

Really appreciate the help!
dealer will have software that can scan Body Control Module to retrieve what error codes are present and help narrow down what part of the system creates the non-op symptoms

ODB scanners won't read that information since each maker has proprietary systems beyond the engine / powertrain management that encompasses ODB-II systems
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Alright guys,

I've tried all of the tips posted on this forum.

- Unplug negative battery cord for 15min. Plugged back in. Started car. AC/Heater Control unit still not working (none of the dials or buttons)

- Removed every single 10AMP fuse (including 30AMP #42, and #43) from the rear fuse box. Waited 10min. Bought brand new 10AMP fuses and put those back in. Started car. AC/Heater Control unit still not working (none of the dials or buttons)

- Removed AC / Heater Control Unit and checked wires/connectors. All good. Unplugged them all and plugged back in for safe measure. Started car. AC/Heater Control unit still not working (none of the dials or buttons)

I called Dodge to see if they have the AC/Heater Control unit in stock (55111904AE). Apparently they stopped making this part for Challengers 2009 and older.. I asked them where I could find it, they said Autozone, O'Reilys, or Napa. I called all of them, but they all said they don't carry the part or ever will. No junkyards have a Challenger in my year, which I need because apparently the AC/Heater Control units for 2009+ Challengers are a different. Rock Auto, Summit Racing, all the Mopar part websites don't have it.. Literally my only hope is a used one off eBay


Unfortunately the part won't arrive until December 11th.. So I won't have a car for 2 weeks. Hopefully that used AC/Heater Control unit fixes my problem. If not I believe the only other 2 things it could be are my Heater Blower or my Actuators. Really bummed out how this happened right after I bought the car. Haven't even owned it for a week. Really loved this car at first.

Does anyone know if the AC/Heater Control unit for 2010+ Challengers will fit in my 2009?
 

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I found the part on Rock Auto

there's one for cars built from 2/02/09 onward available

the one for builds prior to 2/02/09 is showing out of stock

your VIN sticker on the driver's door will show you vehicles build date MM:DD:HH (last two are hours in 24 hour format)

that's odd since many models prior to 2011 seem to have the same control set. I remember renting a 2009 Sebring that had the same HVAC controls.

the 2011 - 2014 won't work for yours since those had auto climate control and the '10 and earlier were manual climate control - FYI
 

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Discussion Starter #8
"the one for builds prior to 2/02/09 is showing out of stock "

Yeah, unfortunately my Challenger was built in October 2008. I saw that note on Rock Auto for the 2 different versions too. The dealers ask and say the same thing. All 3 Dodge dealerships in my state said they don't sell them anymore and my best bet would be an aftermarket one. The problem is nobody makes an after market one either. There is literally only one eBay post for this exact part and it takes 2 weeks to ship. I'm gonna try the junkyards in my area, hopefully they have an exact 08-09 Dodge Challenger lol. Other than that, gonna beg this eBay seller to overnight ship.

I read somewhere that someone tried the AC/Heater Control unit for the builds from 2/2/09 (and on) in his 2008 Challenger and the only thing that didn't work was his AC. I might be willing to live with that (I live in Seattle).

Thanks for helping, Hal. Really appreciate it
 

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I'd have the diagnostic to determine if its the control unit itself or something else. Or if a re-flash might resolve it.

Its very strange that a part is discontinued - I looked at online dodge dealer parts and its Not Available...

the similar looking controls were used in other models - but they have different part numbers
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I've got a diagnostic scheduled with my local Dodge dealership this Tuesday AM. They said if I bring the part from eBay they'll install it for me and only charge labor (if that is the cause of problem). If it's not the problem, I'll still be happy, because Dodge still makes the other parts.

I think they discontinued them because people's AC/Heater Control units started to smoke and burn up right behind the 1st dial (fan setting). I've read at least 3 posts on this website about it. They should have recalled them, not just leave people in the dust w faulty units.

I may stock up on them. They may become a very rare commodity soon.
 

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There is a long list of DTCs for the Heater control system. Hopefully they can narrow it down to one which will point to the correct test/culprit

A Guy
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Just wanted to give a final update on this, in case anyone else runs into this problem.

I want to Bud Clary Auburn Chrysler Dodge Jeep Ram here in Auburn, WA for a diagnosis.

They quoted me $3,500 to repair my problem lol.

• Rear power distribution center 5081730AG (rear fuse box)
• Rear power harness (that goes to all electrical in cabin)
• $600 (only available off vintage)

15hrs of labor $2,600 (remove trunk, seats, carpet, rewire electrical)

Told me there was an intermittent short and when they would move rear fuse box around you could hear the relays clicking on and off lol.

I couldn't believe this is what they were quoting me. I told them I will just pay for the diag fee ($150) and the part that was needed ($600). When I picked my car up, my trunk liner had a dent in it where the rear driver wheel well is. Not a big deal, it can just be popped out. But 2 other things that were weird that were never a problem in my car prior to bringing it in

1. all of a sudden i'm having problems pumping gas. stops every 4 gallons when pumping. (see my other thread)

2. one of my sunroof drain tubes came unplugged and started causing my head liner to get soaked. I was able to remove my headliner and spot this and plug it back in. Just makes you wonder..

Not saying they caused these problems, but it's very weird how 'new' issues came up after my visit. It was very obvious they were trying to take advantage of me with the diagnosis as well...

After I left I brought my car over to a friends house who is a Tech for Honda. I told him the diagnosis and he inspected the rear fuse box a bit more. He noticed the connectors were pretty rusty, maybe from moisture damage. He cleaned them out, and spent a bit more time on the connectors for the fuses that control the HVAC unit. This didn't work. Then he tested connectors for power and noticed the ones that were in charge of powering the fuse for the HVAC was not receiving power. We checked the associated relay and noticed that it was rusted/corroded. Went to Auto Zone, bought a replacement relay for $20, plugged it in and my HVAC unit works again. All it took was an hr inspection from an experienced mechanic and a $20 replacement part.

I went back to Bud Clary Auburn Chrysler Dodge Jeep Ram and spoke to the GM first thing in the morning. Told him the entire story and showed him the old relay that was replaced. He refunded me for misdiagnosis and the $600 special order part.

Be careful dealing with dealerships!
 

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Thanks for the update. It is very much appreciated by all of us as it now is a reference/solution that will always be discoverable for those in “search” mode. In fact, it’s one of the best features of this site. Thank you
 

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Just wanted to give a final update on this, in case anyone else runs into this problem.

I want to Bud Clary Auburn Chrysler Dodge Jeep Ram here in Auburn, WA for a diagnosis.

They quoted me $3,500 to repair my problem lol.

• Rear power distribution center 5081730AG (rear fuse box)
• Rear power harness (that goes to all electrical in cabin)
• $600 (only available off vintage)

15hrs of labor $2,600 (remove trunk, seats, carpet, rewire electrical)

Told me there was an intermittent short and when they would move rear fuse box around you could hear the relays clicking on and off lol.

I couldn't believe this is what they were quoting me. I told them I will just pay for the diag fee ($150) and the part that was needed ($600). When I picked my car up, my trunk liner had a dent in it where the rear driver wheel well is. Not a big deal, it can just be popped out. But 2 other things that were weird that were never a problem in my car prior to bringing it in

1. all of a sudden i'm having problems pumping gas. stops every 4 gallons when pumping. (see my other thread)

2. one of my sunroof drain tubes came unplugged and started causing my head liner to get soaked. I was able to remove my headliner and spot this and plug it back in. Just makes you wonder..

Not saying they caused these problems, but it's very weird how 'new' issues came up after my visit. It was very obvious they were trying to take advantage of me with the diagnosis as well...

After I left I brought my car over to a friends house who is a Tech for Honda. I told him the diagnosis and he inspected the rear fuse box a bit more. He noticed the connectors were pretty rusty, maybe from moisture damage. He cleaned them out, and spent a bit more time on the connectors for the fuses that control the HVAC unit. This didn't work. Then he tested connectors for power and noticed the ones that were in charge of powering the fuse for the HVAC was not receiving power. We checked the associated relay and noticed that it was rusted/corroded. Went to Auto Zone, bought a replacement relay for $20, plugged it in and my HVAC unit works again. All it took was an hr inspection from an experienced mechanic and a $20 replacement part.

I went back to Bud Clary Auburn Chrysler Dodge Jeep Ram and spoke to the GM first thing in the morning. Told him the entire story and showed him the old relay that was replaced. He refunded me for misdiagnosis and the $600 special order part.

Be careful dealing with dealerships!
Where is the relay located? Checked fuses all good. No corrosion.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Where is the relay located? Checked fuses all good. No corrosion.
It's in the rear power distribution center (rear fuse box). They're the bigger black boxes that don't look like traditional fuses. All 3 of mine had extremely rusted prongs.
 
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