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HELP: 2010 Clicking/Knocking Issue?

13K views 39 replies 11 participants last post by  madmanmike 
#1 ·
Have a 2010 SE with about 96k miles on it, about a week ago it started ticking when I was accelerating, then it started doing it while idle (just at a lower volume), did some research and a lot of symptoms pointed towards spark plugs, and it was about time to replace them anyway, so I went ahead and did it myself, and the tick went away for about 24 hours, then it started all over again, just as bad, so today I tried an oil change, was about at 4K miles since I last changed it and it seemed to help for a minute, but now it’s just as bad as the first time it started, maybe even a bit worse. Need advice ASAP! Also yes I put the right oil in, and the right amount, and changed the filter.
 
#2 ·
Could be anything. Does it speed up and slow down when accelerating/decelerating? How loud is it? You can take a paper roll tube, listen, and try to isolate where the ticking is coming from.
 
#4 ·
You'll have to isolate it. If it's getting worse with time, I would guess you have a rod knocking.
 
#7 ·
It’s most likely one or both rocker arm assemblies. They are made out of aluminum and have a weird oil flow design that leads to several problems with the rockers, one of which is the ticking noise. Another is when the individual rockers begin chewing up the rocker next it on the exhaust side of the assembly and start bouncing off the camshaft lobes.

That 3.5L engine was plagued with this issue, and I ran into it on my 2010 Challenger when I had it.

One way to know for sure if this is the source of the noise is to pull the valve cover and visually inspect the rocker arm assembly. If you see the damaged rockers on the exhaust side, the whole assembly has to be replaced.

That’s the good news...

It’s also possible to have the rocker assembly go bad and begin making the ticking noise but not show any outward signs of damage. There can be a lack of oil flow in the critical areas which leads to increased wear and premature failure, but the ticking noise will be the only sign there is a problem with this scenario.

Rocker assembly replacement is required there as well.

Now for the bad news: parts alone will cost you if you have to fix this.

The last time I looked into all this, the rocker assemblies were $275 each, or $500 for both.

That’s for new parts. You can buy used ones for $100 or so, but there’s no guarantee a used one won’t be damaged from the same problem already.

Oh yeah, and this was all back in 2015, so I would not be surprised if the prices have gone up since then.

Sorry to dump all this bad news and bleak outlook on you, but it’s the reality of the situation you are probably facing. I went through it with mine, and I can attest to the fact it’s no fun to deal with.

Good luck,
Nuke
 
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#8 ·


A Guy
 
#14 ·
ouch, that sounds like something from the rotating assembly in the engine’s bottom end, e.g. a rod knocking.

You need to start deciding how you want to handle it when that engine dies on you, and it will do it sooner rather than later I’m afraid.

You can likely find a used 3.5L at a local salvage yard to replace that one when the rod gives loose, or you can sell the car for whatever you can get (not much I’m afraid) and move on.

Honestly, the 3.5L is such an old and underpowered engine, replacing one in a 4K car like the Challenger with another engine just like it is ill-advised unless you are still paying the car off maybe.

But that’s getting into financial decisions that affect your livelihood, so I’ll stay out of that. Just know it is very likely, from the sounds of it, you will be making some financial decisions regarding that car pretty soon. ?

sorry to be Mr. Bad News...
 
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#17 ·
Yep, I think your best approach here is to assume it is a rod or crank bearing, and therefore a fatally injured engine with a finite number of miles left before it dies. As such, you don’t want to drive it at all unless absolutely necessary, like up onto a roll-away tow truck or into a service bay at the mechanics...that’s about it honestly.

Who knows, the car could go 10 more miles, or it could go another 20 miles, or it may only last another 500 feet. I think you should Assume the worst and get the car to a place that can properly diagnose it, but do that without driving the car if at all possible....or as little as possible.

I used to have a Tahoe that I overrevved in a mudhole once, and it started making a similar noise to yours. I thought I could get it home (~20 miles away), but it only made it about 18 miles before the rod broke and came through the side of the engine block. It was a violent and messy death, and it stranded me on the side of the road when it went down.

There was nothing about that experience I recommend. That’s why I recommend tow trucks and such over further driving, lest you have to deal with a similar situation.
 
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#18 ·
Sounds like you have a rod knocking. I wouldn't start the car anymore until you get it fixed. If it was me, I would find a 5.7l Hemi engine and drivetrain to drop in it.
 
#21 ·


A Guy
 
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#22 ·
the pitch that your engine noise is sounds like rod bearing knock - that's a heavy sound. A shop would use a stethoscope to trace where the sound it coming from.

depending on the miles and how it was maintained things have worn. What you're hearing is excess clearance and those bearings will basically pound out and have more clearance. with the greater clearance oil pressure bleeds off in that bearing and contributes to it wearing more as well

if a bearing shell spins, it will block off the oil lubrication hole and it will be a catastrophic failure that results in crankshaft bearing damage or the connecting rod fails.
 
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#24 ·
Hell now I see @A Guy and @Hal H have already replied, I didn’t see their posts 5 min ago which why I replied...but now I do...something is up here...or I have finally gone insane...
?
 
#29 ·
Any codes? Can you kill a plug individually and see which hole makes the sound lessen? I’ve heard of hung open fuel injectors causing “dieseling“ and making hard knocking sounds. Generally bottom end noises go from subtle to loud to bang-clunk. Can’t say I’ve ever heard of one change from subtle to loud and back to subtle repeatedly. Good luck!
 
#30 ·
on the V6 engines, one bank has the plugs covered by the intake plenum - I suspect one can't access the coil pack.

Otherwise, it would be possible to unplug the individual coil pack electrical connector to disable a given cylinder
 
#31 ·
Good point, I need more coffee!

Videos can be difficult to diagnose sound origination and tone but to me, it sounds more like a common detonation knock than a not quite as common mechanical knock. No mention of fluctuating oil pressure but suggestions it’s speed dependent to aggravate the sound has me leaning away from the bottom end.

Heres what I’m thinking based solely on what’s been shared:
Idling in park where commanded fuel delivery will be at its lowest could make a hole predetonating sound pretty loud. Idling with the car in drive increases the fuel delivery to maintain idle while overcoming resistance helps the other holes overcome the “misfire”. Accelerating lowers fuel pressure as fuel is consumed and brings the knock back. Maybe my ears are deceiving me (wouldn’t be the first time) but that’s where I’m leaning and would start my troubleshooting. Thoughts?
 
#32 ·
if the fuel trims were that far out of range or a misfire, either one of those would set MIL and codes for the condition. These engines employ knock sensors as well and if either of the two weren't working properly, they would set codes as well.

this is more likely a mechanical issue vs. ignition or emission system faults
 
#33 ·
I agree codes should be present and there’s no mention of them but I’d try to eliminate everything I could before ordering a crate engine. Many a man has condemned on a preconceived diagnosis just to discover that rod or wrist pin they thought loose wasn’t in the engine they just pulled. Not saying anyone’s advice is wrong, just saying the worst that can possibly happen is a better place to finish than to start when troubleshooting. Enjoying the thread all the same!
 
#39 ·
The 3.5's are notorious for this. I believe it's cause is extended oil change intervals. I dont think I have seen anyone mention a "catch can". I run a catch can on all my vehicles. These 3.5's tend to gum up if oil changes are neglected. Also change your PCV regularly; this will also gum up your top end by not evacuating the crankcase and valvetrain of oil fumes if it gets plugged. I also always change my my oil max 4K miles. I am not nearly up to 90 K in miles but my other cars are over 200K with a small valve tick fix. Use at your own discretion...

I usually put Sea Foam in my engines about 100 miles prior to oil change. It definitely scrubs the engine. It also brought my 76 smallblock chevy back from burning oil (frozen rings from sitting to long) Also My LQ motor from valve ticking. For extremely dirty engines i'd add then 1K miles then change the oil. Cycle this 3 to 4 times / oil changes. As some have shown maybe too late as the wear is already present in the valve train Catch can is a really good investment. You would be surprised how much oil it catches that would have burned up in the combustion chamber causing carbon and possibly predetonation.
 
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