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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited by Moderator)
I have an RT Challenger with rebuilt true duals (Flowmasters) and a cold air intake as of right now. I’m looking for a performance cam and looking for what type of headers I should get. Can anyone maybe link me some parts they think will be best for performance but not breaking the bank? Also after I put those two things on I’m getting the Diablo predator 2 tune.

Been seeing a lot of people saying the Comp Cams XFI Tri-Power, 273H-13 is good but can’t find the exact cam.
 

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If you don't wanna break the bank, 392 cam and stainless Power headers. 392 cam is $200 +$400-600 in other parts to make to complete the swap. If you wanna go a little more wild TSP Stage 2 or 3 cams are great, with the stage 3 you will sacrifice some bottom end. But in my experience on otherwise stock engines, the difference from a custom grind to the 392 cam is minimal in real world performance, you'd be going more for idle sound.
Stainless Power long tubes & high flow cats can be had for $1100
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
If you don't wanna break the bank, 392 cam and stainless Power headers. 392 cam is $200 +$400-600 in other parts to make to complete the swap. If you wanna go a little more wild TSP Stage 2 or 3 cams are great, with the stage 3 you will sacrifice some bottom end. But in my experience on otherwise stock engines, the difference from a custom grind to the 392 cam is minimal in real world performance, you'd be going more for idle sound.
Stainless Power long tubes & high flow cats can be had for $1100
Thank you. Will messing with things like the cam mess up anything tho? Just not tryna blow my motor up in any way
 

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Thank you. Will messing with things like the cam mess up anything tho? Just not tryna blow my motor up in any way
Not unless you mess up the install
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I run a comp cam 274 with kooks long tube headers. Runs and sounds great.
COMP Cams CL12-246-3: Xtreme Energy 274H Hydraulic Flat Tappet Camshaft & Lifter Kit Lift: .490" /.490" Duration: 274°/286° RPM Range: 1800-6000 | JEGS This what you mean?

If you don't wanna break the bank, 392 cam and stainless Power headers. 392 cam is $200 +$400-600 in other parts to make to complete the swap. If you wanna go a little more wild TSP Stage 2 or 3 cams are great, with the stage 3 you will sacrifice some bottom end. But in my experience on otherwise stock engines, the difference from a custom grind to the 392 cam is minimal in real world performance, you'd be going more for idle sound.
Stainless Power long tubes & high flow cats can be had for $1100
Dodge Chrysler Mopar V8 Stage 2 420/443 Lift Cam Camshaft 350 361 383 400 MC1787 | eBay That the cam you are talking about?
 

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Your best bet is to call a cam manufacturer and ask them. They’re the best bet to get you the right cam for your car. They can even custom grind one

Bill D
 

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Any idea what the price would be?
no idea. But I’ve had it done about 15 years ago. Usually not that expensive. Much better than an off the shelf cam. They’ll taylor it to your specific needs, car weight, engine, etc., etc.m etc.

Bill D
 

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No, the cam I'm talking about is the factory cam used in 392 hemis. More specifically the non-MDS version.
Part # - 5037379BC cam
68277306AA valve springs
26640 OPTIONAL pushrods
I've personally had great success with it and my brother has tuned 4 cars with the same cam. Very easy to tune and great performance gains, I'm starting to believe the custom grind manufacturers fluff up the hp gains on their cams because I've seen custom grinds vs 392 cam cars and there's virtually no difference, atleast on N/A stock displacement cars. If you need a tune for whatever cam you decide I can also recommend you to my brother for a good deal, it's a new business but he's been tuning them for a few years.
 

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the key items for selecting a cam - from my perspective

how are you going to use the vehicle?

If this is primarily street driven you want power and torque gains where its usable.
most driving on the street is going to be 1,500 - 3,000 rpm and if you lose torque in this range, its going to feel laggy.
So in this example a cam that has most power in say 3,000 - 7,000 rpm won't be a good choice on the street.
- so would be the instance of going with a very high stall speed for torque converter (A5 / A8 applications) as you'll lose a lot of efficiency unless the converter goes into lockup (light throttle / cruise)

More isn't always "more" - follow the recommendations - if the cam calls for larger displacement engines / stroker engines, that's not going to work for a stock 5.7 or a 392, unless otherwise indicated say for 392 application vs. the 5.7

Forced induction cams vs. Naturally Aspirated - very different approaches here. Think about your future plans and select a cam based around that.
if going forced induction, those have shorter intake duration and different LSA and overlap profiles to optimize for that type of induction
tuning - this is vitally important to work with someone that understands how to tune the engine to the cam's characteristics and what other modifications are made to the engine. "one size doesn't fit all"
 
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