[Dmattera09]

2009, RT, 5.7, 6 speed. 110k miles.

Normally I would expect to see coolant coming from the gasket or a hose. This is really weird to me at least as it appears to be coming from around the tube in the back. Car runs fine, has not been overheating. Just noticed it when I parked in the driveway and there was a stream pouring out.

Would a new Water Pump be the fix here? I have looked over many diagrams and have not found the purpose of this tube as I’d yet. (Passenger side of engine, running into back side of water pump.)

Thank you for the expertise in advance!

 

[ChallyTatum]

That is the heater tube which has an O-ring. Fits into the hole in the timing cover as circled in blue in the image below which shows the back side of the cover.

The tubes look like this and the one on the passenger side bolts to the back of the engine. It is best to remove the intake to gain access to slide the tube out and insert a new O-ring provided the hole is not pitted.

If it is pitted you can use a 3/8 npt tap and install a hose barb.

 

[Nuke]

I believe there is an o-ring on the end of that tube that seals it into the pump housing, and that’s probably brittle or otherwise failing to seal the connection now, allowing the coolant leak. This would only require a new o-ring for that coolant tube to resolve the leak.

Another possibility is the pump housing has corroded on the inside where that tube inserts, and the tube’s o-ring cannot seal the joint anymore as a result. This would require a new pump to resolve the leak.

With 110K miles, it wouldn’t be a bad idea to just go scorched earth and replace it all - the pump, the tube’s o-ring, fresh coolant, etc - the whole shootin’ match in other words. That’s probably what I’d do, but I’m a weird duck…

 

[Nuke]

Alright so I was half-right…I’m good with that! 😁

 

[Dmattera09]

That is the heater tube which has an O-ring. Fits into the hole in the timing cover as circled in blue in the image below which shows the back side of the cover.

View attachment 1074390

The tubes look like this and the one on the passenger side bolts to the back of the engine. It is best to remove the intake to gain access to slide the tube out and insert a new O-ring provided the hole is not pitted.
View attachment 1074391

If it is pitted you can use a 3/8 npt tap and install a hose barb.

Lifesaver!! Thank you, I was getting really confused by the problem part. Couldn’t find any good diagrams. Armed with that part name I did look it up, some people said the intake removal isn’t required, it can just be gently moved after the screw is out on the rear section. Might give that a shot and if that doesn’t get enough clearance I’ll take the intake out.

 

[ChallyTatum]

When I installed my SC'er I ditched the inserts that were supplied and tapped in hose barbs. Like I said if the hole in your timing cover is not pitted just see if replacing the O-ring helps. On a side note magnuson gives hose nipples that are just held on by a loctite, water proof adhesive.

6.2 cam swap into 5.7 M6 forced induction

Out of curiosity, why would you need to tap the timing chain as a return. If it is engine coolant to cool the S/C I get tapping the H2O pump but the timing case I'm confused on.

www.challengertalk.com

 

[Dmattera09]

I believe there is an o-ring on the end of that tube that seals it into the pump housing, and that’s probably brittle or otherwise failing to seal the connection now, allowing the coolant leak. This would only require a new o-ring for that coolant tube to resolve the leak.

Another possibility is the pump housing has corroded on the inside where that tube inserts, and the tube’s o-ring cannot seal the joint anymore as a result. This would require a new pump to resolve the leak.

With 110K miles, it wouldn’t be a bad idea to just go scorched earth and replace it all - the pump, the tube’s o-ring, fresh coolant, etc - the whole shootin’ match in other words. That’s probably what I’d do, but I’m a weird duck…

Thank you!! Looks like you and Chally got me setup. I’ll order those parts tonight and tear into it tomorrow.

I’m with you on the pump. I’ll have to check my records from the first owner, he might have had that done recently (only had car for a year). It happened when the temp suddenly dropped. So I’m wondering if that just was the straw that broke.

 

[Dmattera09]

When I installed my SC'er I ditched the inserts that were supplied and tapped in hose barbs. Like I said if the hole in your timing cover is not pitted just see if replacing the O-ring helps. On a side note magnuson gives hose nipples that are just head on by a loctite, water proof adhesive.

6.2 cam swap into 5.7 M6 forced induction

Out of curiosity, why would you need to tap the timing chain as a return. If it is engine coolant to cool the S/C I get tapping the H2O pump but the timing case I'm confused on.

www.challengertalk.com

Sweet! I guess we will find out tomorrow what’s needed. That sounds like a great solution as well. This is a pretty simply fix it seems, but one id rather not have again lol

 

[KillerBee]

I replaced that leaking O ring on my daughter's 2013 R/T.
It took a little effort, kind of a tight space to work in where the O ring is at but I did it without removing the intake.
The rear of the tube that goes under the intake is connected to a flexible rubber hose with bracket, unbolt the bracket and the tube can be slide back.
Obviously do it with the engine cold.
Coolant loss was minimal.
Make sure the tubes and hoses are still in good shape as they are know to leak when they get old.
Put a little lube on the O ring.

I bought the correct O ring at the stealership, it was the most ex$spenive one I've ever bought.

2005-2019 Chrysler 300 Jeep Dodge Durango Engine Coolant Pipe O-Ring Mopar OEM | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for 2005-2019 Chrysler 300 Jeep Dodge Durango Engine Coolant Pipe O-Ring Mopar OEM at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!

www.ebay.com

 

[ChallyTatum]

Speaking of the intake, don't forget to check the bolts for proper torque. The intake bolts tend to loosen over time which leads to staining of the interface between the head and intake which in you image looks like you have some.

 

[Dmattera09]

Speaking of the intake, don't forget to check the bolts for proper torque. The intake bolts tend to loosen over time which leads to staining of the interface between the head and intake which in you image looks like you have some.

Good idea, I’d rather not deal with this again. Have pretty major personal issues today with a friend, so I just now got to messing with it. Lots of slop inside that channel, but I’ll check the torque on those when I get the new ring in just to be safe. It almost seems like I’ll need to pop the intake off. The tube is very stuck inside that timing cover housing.

 

[Dmattera09]

No luck. Immediately leaking in the same spot.
I did notice a small what I thought to be weep hole on the tube, I am now wondering if that was the whole failure to begin with.

Looks like I’ll be ordering a new tube. Looks like the intake will be coming off 🤦‍♂️