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Discussion Starter #1
I’m new here and I recently bought a 2009 Challenger srt8 and I was driving last night and the check engine light came on, I went to auto zone to have the code read and it said incorrect gear ratio. So I drove back to base and sat for about 10 minutes and the check engine light went away so I decided to try and drive it around base and when I shift into reverse or drive the engine will idle up to 1500rpm and move forward making me have to brake harder when at a stand still. The transmission is the southern hot rods war Viking max. Do y’all know what the culprit could be?
 

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2015 RT 5.7 M6
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Welcome to the forum.

Here are some things you can try. First pull fuses 2 (under the hood fuse box) for ~20sec . This resets the adaptives in the PCM.
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You can also try pulling fuse 37 (trunk fuse box) for 20sec. This may reset the TCM learned adaptives (it's listed as transmission fuse in the manual but not sure if it really reset the A5 trans).
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Then check the intake manifold bolts (do this on a cold engine) for proper torque (9 ft-lb). Usually the bolts loosen on the 5.7/6.4 manifolds as they are composite but also good to check on a 6.1 despite it being aluminum. Also check the hoses going to the intake manifold to make sure none are cracked. Any leaks might be causing your high idle.
 

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I would normally say disconnect the battery but I have seen several posts where guys with the earlier year challengers either had a dead battery or removed the cables only to have issues pop up with the WIN module (keyless entry). Pulling the fuses just removes power from the PCM/TCM.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
That did not work, still reving to 1500 rpm when in gear and now it’s throwing another check engine light. Any other things? There is also an audible clank a few seconds after start up, it only does the rev thing when stopped or at like 2 or 3mph
 

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Im not sure what the last code was. I decided to just pull the negative battery cable off and it stopped acting funny. I’m going to take her for a nice drive tonight to see if it does it again. I appreciate the help! I’ll respond on here if any more problems occur.
 

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What are the code(s)?
Going to be a P073x depending on whatever gear is missed. The NAG's a good unit but this one's been rebuilt/modified - how long ago was that trans work done/does the builder offer a warranty?

A number of things can cause incorrect gear ratio fault. Basic stuff that can be done is check the oil level/condition (you may not have a trans dipstick however) and electrical connections at the trans and the TCM (under the left side of the dash), and/or any damage to the trans wiring/harness.

After that you're looking at either a solenoid or a burnt clutch pack (which would show up in oil).

If you want us to help step 1 is oil level condition. Step 2 is fault code(s).
 

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I know the trans was done 500 miles ago but that’s it. I have not checked that wiring yet but I did check the fuses. I have the dip stick and the fluid was clean. After I disconnected the negative battery cable the codes went away and it drove fine up until about an hour ago. But still no codes.
 

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Going to be a P073x depending on whatever gear is missed. The NAG's a good unit but this one's been rebuilt/modified - how long ago was that trans work done/does the builder offer a warranty?

A number of things can cause incorrect gear ratio fault. Basic stuff that can be done is check the oil level/condition (you may not have a trans dipstick however) and electrical connections at the trans and the TCM (under the left side of the dash), and/or any damage to the trans wiring/harness.

After that you're looking at either a solenoid or a burnt clutch pack (which would show up in oil).

If you want us to help step 1 is oil level condition. Step 2 is fault code(s).
OP said on start up an audible clunk and high idle in gear was occurring which had me believe there may be new, non-trans related DTCs.
 

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It started doing it again but with no codes, you think it could be the tune?
Could be. If the car runs fine after resetting the PCM/TCM by disconnecting the battery but then starts to act funky it could be that the adaptives are learning incorrect settings. Although a clunk after start-up is not normal. A lot of tuners like to completely disable all torque management, or increase line pressure, or exceed clutch engagement settings in the tune which can lead to driveability issues later on. This is why reading the code(s) is important, as it can give a clue as to what is going wrong.
 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
That’s what I was thinking myself after it started again. The clunk does not occur any more and after I just disconnect and reconnected the battery she was fine again.
 

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I know the trans was done 500 miles ago but that’s it.
You shouldn't be here talking to us, you should definitely be talking to them!

Let us know if you get the faults/any other info in the meantime. Good luck
 

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OP nothing wrong with asking for insight from the forum before going back to the shop. I have seen quite a few posts on HP tuners where guys have issues after a mod and the shop that did the work is either uncooperative or stumped. Hopefully in your case the original shop can set you straight, otherwise the forum is here for you bud.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
OP nothing wrong with asking for insight from the forum before going back to the shop. I have seen quite a few posts on HP tuners where guys have issues after a mod and the shop that did the work is either uncooperative or stumped. Hopefully in your case the original shop can set you straight, otherwise the forum is here for you bud.
I appreciate it, I found a shop local here in VA that will charge $120 an hour to look at it. The problem came back again and the code is still p0730, but now I can’t get it to go away. Hopefully it’s a sensor or something that is easily fixed. I talked to the tuner of the car and he wants data logs for it before he can help.
 
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