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So i test drove today a scat pack and scat pack widebody. For some reason, the widebody didn't have the shaker hood (which I like better).
I asked the salesperson "so what's the difference in the wide body?"
"there is no difference"
"really? aren't the tires bigger in the back?" bending down to look at the tires :unsure:
"yes, it does appear that the tires are bigger":LOL:
"okay, being that it's a wide body, does it handle any differently?"
"no, there's no difference in the wide body"
hmmm.....
They also didn't know how to quickly explore the different drive modes-"my Manager won't let us fool around with the drive modes" sigh:oops:
So, in reality, I'm sure there's a bit of a difference with the body- does it have better handling around curves, in the rain, less likely to spin the tires?

For some reason, or maybe it was just the particular car I drove, the wide body car didn't have as firm of a ride as the regular. Isn't it supposed to be the same suspension?
I really liked it. Within the first 10 seconds of driving the car, the phrase "power luxury car" popped into my mind. Definitely a classy car!!:cool:
You can't rely upon salesmen to know really anything about the cars. They are there to get you seated at the F&I guy's desk to sign the paperwork.

You really need to know the cars you are considering what they come with or can come with, etc.

Here's a good write up of the differences between the narrow body and wide body regarding grip, road and track behavior, etc.

Don't count on better grip in the wet though. Wider tires are better than narrow on dry pavement but the wider tires can be worse with regards to hydroplaning.
 

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So, in reality, I'm sure there's a bit of a difference with the body- does it have better handling around curves, in the rain, less likely to spin the tires?

For some reason, or maybe it was just the particular car I drove, the wide body car didn't have as firm of a ride as the regular. Isn't it supposed to be the same suspension?
I really liked it. Within the first 10 seconds of driving the car, the phrase "power luxury car" popped into my mind. Definitely a classy car!!:cool:

A Guy
 

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REALLY?! So far TWO Hellcats have eaten my dust at Gainesville raceway in the 1/4 mile. One a manual and the other an A8. Both had big Drag radials and minor mods. Ever heard the phrase...."spinnin ain't winnin"!

There is a traction limit on the track and especially on the street. All that power hurts you while you watch tail lights get small real fast.

I have raced different things most of my life....most of my wins are against people with more power. The right COMBO is the answer. Look at this forum....Plenty of Hellcats, Redeyes and Demons running 12's and 13's. With good weather I'm in the low 11's....and I paid 39,300 for my new Scat in 16.

Gotta do your home work to go fast. For those super bad cars that run 10's...well..they should beat me! They have a LOT more power. My last race was against a new Vette than runs 10.1's around 133 mph. (blown) . He only beat me by 2 lengths at the very end of the track. I owned him most of the way. If it was 1/8th mile.....I SMOKED him!

I'll take my 392 NA motor any day and save my self 30-50 grand along the way....Gene :)
agreed the right combo is the answer, and anything is possible with enough money however you will need an extreme built na motor and all things equal, the boosted engine will still have the advantage

not saying that an na motor can't make power but to get a 4200lbs behemoth down the track you need power and lots of it, so much easier with boost

plus you will never achieve extreme horsepower without some form of power adder, nitrous or boost
 

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you will never make 1000 whps na, and if you do, you will never drive it down the street, simply too radical
 

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agreed the right combo is the answer, and anything is possible with enough money however you will need an extreme built na motor and all things equal, the boosted engine will still have the advantage

not saying that an na motor can't make power but to get a 4200lbs behemoth down the track you need power and lots of it, so much easier with boost

plus you will never achieve extreme horsepower without some form of power adder, nitrous or boost
Thanks for the reply....I was wondering! Combo is the answer. I have minor mods and I am a 1/2 a second away from being a 10 second car. It hooks hard. And as I stated...I saved 30-60 grand in the process.

The Demon record is 9.5 seconds......is 2 seconds worth another 60 grand?? In my book.....UH .....NO!

You have to "pick your lane" in life. Do you want to be the fastest guy in town?? If so...you better have Steve White money!! My car is amazingly fast, and 100% dependable and runs 186 degrees all the time!

Are you old enough to remember the 289 Mustangs? They were called the "Big Block killers". By the time the high horsepower cars gets through spinning the race is over!

It's ALL about "hookin and bookin". Once you pass the traction limit on any surface.... extra HP slows you down.

I do understand the Dealers perspective......big talk = big sales.
 

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If you have success with nitrous, you gotta spill.....
I do not have the experience yet , but from all my studies , my build plans have changed from a turbo based beast ........ to a fully built port injection nitrous animal ;) my plan is to start with a plate kit and a 200 shot. Then I’ll build my manifold for injection. There are a few guys on here who love their nitrous and have had very good results along the way. Keep in mind , I don’t have a stock block. I’m running a 392 based 10.3:1 forged 426 stroker. Along with phase four heads , custom cam ,and fbo. I will probably also opt for e85 down the road as well. I like the fact that it’ll just be an na beast 90% of the time. Then , when it’s time to drop the hammer , I’ll flip the switch and give em the good news. As far as a stock bottom goes, I’ve seen a few guys with good success running a 100shot with a good tune and chasing 10’s.



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You made my point :)
What is your point exactly? We shouldn’t add power to our cars ? Of course it’s a balancing act , but more power in the right hands will always win. Anyone can get lucky at the track and get a win against a guy who just knows how to mash the pedal, but a serious racer , isn’t spinning their wheels.


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What is your point exactly? We shouldn’t add power to our cars ? Of course it’s a balancing act , but more power in the right hands will always win. Anyone can get lucky at the track and get a win against a guy who just knows how to mash the pedal, but a serious racer , isn’t spinning their wheels.


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Whats my point? I was told (see above) that an NA motor will get it "doors blown off" by cubic inches and forced induction". And "there is no substitute".

Those statements are accepted by people with little actual racing knowledge. But they do however write big checks based on those statements.

My point is that many times..."less is more". With massive power, it required massive traction. I learned racing in mud pits many years ago that the right air pressure and technique will make excessive HP look stupid. I have first and second place trophies to prove it.

Those "blanket statements' are simply not true.

I see MANY people that spent BIG money that get DUSTED often with BIG power. They are so frustrated, pissed and confused. Teach them the tricks, right setup, and they go fast.

I never said that no one should boost their cars. It's your vehicle and your money. There are SERIOUSLY fast cars out there owned by people that know what they are doing. If you have the money to spend...who cares.

I win most of my races. It is frequently against people with more power. I can tell you the victory is more satisfying when on paper....you should lose.....but you win anyway :)

I just want folks to know that you don't need forced induction to go very fast. You just have to do your homework.....WORD.
 

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Whats my point? I was told (see above) that an NA motor will get it "doors blown off" by cubic inches and forced induction". And "there is no substitute".

Those statements are accepted by people with little actual racing knowledge. But they do however write big checks based on those statements.

My point is that many times..."less is more". With massive power, it required massive traction. I learned racing in mud pits many years ago that the right air pressure and technique will make excessive HP look stupid. I have first and second place trophies to prove it.

Those "blanket statements' are simply not true.

I see MANY people that spent BIG money that get DUSTED often with BIG power. They are so frustrated, pissed and confused. Teach them the tricks, right setup, and they go fast.

I never said that no one should boost their cars. It's your vehicle and your money. There are SERIOUSLY fast cars out there owned by people that know what they are doing. If you have the money to spend...who cares.

I win most of my races. It is frequently against people with more power. I can tell you the victory is more satisfying when on paper....you should lose.....but you win anyway :)

I just want folks to know that you don't need forced induction to go very fast. You just have to do your homework.....WORD.
Roger that , I started reading into it a bit too much. I’m of the same mind , to a degree. I also really enjoy my na 426. Simply because it WILL put the smack down on many of the boosted cars out there and it’s just raw torque:) At the end of the day though , I will be doing a power adder.


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800rwhp hellcats are fast from a roll but at the strip (at least my track in AZ) they struggle to hook. Which makes it fun when my little stock bottom end nitrous 5.7 on a tire, runs them from a dig and they can’t catch up. Fun to see hellcat owners scratch their heads when I say it’s a 5.7 on a small shot.
I always like to build my cars around the power I want to make rather than make the power then build the rest. Always start with gears, suspension and wheels/tires then throw power at it. My 2¢.


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Thanks for the reply....I was wondering! Combo is the answer. I have minor mods and I am a 1/2 a second away from being a 10 second car. It hooks hard. And as I stated...I saved 30-60 grand in the process.

The Demon record is 9.5 seconds......is 2 seconds worth another 60 grand?? In my book.....UH .....NO!

You have to "pick your lane" in life. Do you want to be the fastest guy in town?? If so...you better have Steve White money!! My car is amazingly fast, and 100% dependable and runs 186 degrees all the time!

Are you old enough to remember the 289 Mustangs? They were called the "Big Block killers". By the time the high horsepower cars gets through spinning the race is over!

It's ALL about "hookin and bookin". Once you pass the traction limit on any surface.... extra HP slows you down.

I do understand the Dealers perspective......big talk = big sales.
yes old enough, but tire quality has changed dramatically, the advantage of the 289 is lost with good tires
 

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I dont agree, if hps was not needed to win, few people would do it, why would you

yes a good driver in a lower hps car can make all the difference in the world, however when equal drivers in well prep cars, the higher hps machine will most likely win every time, can the opposite occur, yes, you see it all the time in professional racing, somebody breaks the tires loose or something happens and the win goes to the lesser car, but the majority of the time, drivers being equal, the bigger hps will dominate

something I learned a long long time ago,

no matter how good you are and how much money you may have, there's always someone better and or with more money

Luke
 

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800rwhp hellcats are fast from a roll but at the strip (at least my track in AZ) they struggle to hook. Which makes it fun when my little stock bottom end nitrous 5.7 on a tire, runs them from a dig and they can’t catch up. Fun to see hellcat owners scratch their heads when I say it’s a 5.7 on a small shot.
I always like to build my cars around the power I want to make rather than make the power then build the rest. Always start with gears, suspension and wheels/tires then throw power at it. My 2¢.


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Well said !
 

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I dont agree, if hps was not needed to win, few people would do it, why would you

yes a good driver in a lower hps car can make all the difference in the world, however when equal drivers in well prep cars, the higher hps machine will most likely win every time, can the opposite occur, yes, you see it all the time in professional racing, somebody breaks the tires loose or something happens and the win goes to the lesser car, but the majority of the time, drivers being equal, the bigger hps will dominate

something I learned a long long time ago,

no matter how good you are and how much money you may have, there's always someone better and or with more money

Luke
Don't tell anyone this.....(just between us 2)....but I used to own a Mustang. Bought it new in 04, 4.6, tuned, exhaust, intake. It probably made somewhere around 350 hp. I seriously won 99% of my street races with that little thing because it was damn QUICK! I had it down pat......1/3rd throttle, zero wheel spin, and it would HOP 3 car lengths right now! 99% would spin badly because I hopped out so fast they would freak and blow the tires off. By the time I ran 1/2 way thru second gear I was 10 car lengths and gone. The 289 Mustang was the same way.Not tremendous power but in the "sweet spot" of power and traction. If you blinked racing one of those....he put 5 lengths on you and was gone.

Too hook up 600+ hp requires some serious rubber, a great surface and a running gear that will not self destruct. Most street races are a terrible surface. And even on Gainesville Track with a brand new concrete track and well prepped surface most high hp cars have a hard time in the lower gears with wheel spin and hopping. yeah...they will turn in some high mph trap speeds.....but get their clocks cleaned in ET's.
 

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I dont agree, if hps was not needed to win, few people would do it, why would you

yes a good driver in a lower hps car can make all the difference in the world, however when equal drivers in well prep cars, the higher hps machine will most likely win every time, can the opposite occur, yes, you see it all the time in professional racing, somebody breaks the tires loose or something happens and the win goes to the lesser car, but the majority of the time, drivers being equal, the bigger hps will dominate

something I learned a long long time ago,

no matter how good you are and how much money you may have, there's always someone better and or with more money

Luke

I never said HP was not needed to win. I have over 500 and 8 gears! I grew up when most cars were in the 300-400 range with either 2 or 3 gears! I had a HARD time getting mine to hook. It took a lot of patience and modding the rear sub frame and tire selection to finally get it to handle the power I have. But now it hooks and will ROLL!

You are right about not beating everyone....I cannot. Don't have your money! lol I just maximize the power I have and let her rip.

Your example of "equal, well prepped cars" is basically correct. Whomever makes the first mistake loses. But in street racing.....they are not usually equal or well prepped. The car that spins very little and goes straight will most likely win.
 

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think you have me confused with some one else, no cubic money here, yes I do well,

my trailer
978890
 
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