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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I've been meaning to post this for some time given the interest I've been seeing on the forum for installing these. I learned a lot about installing hood pins on a modern Challenger some months ago. After all was said and done, I went with the Petty's Garage mounts in a 1/2" fine thread. They came in a coarse thread initially but all the pins I found were fine thread so Petty's took care of me and made some in fine thread at no add'l cost...great service!!! They should be offered in both now. These mounts are really sturdy, sit under the cup holders and locate the pins exactly where they belong, in the front corners of the hood.

I went with black billet scuff plates from hoodpins.net. Very nice pieces made in the U.S. and the locking pins made in Denmark. The hardware is also top notch. A few bucks more but good quality.

Here are the Petty's Garage mounts. They come with a pointed pin so you can mark where to drill...pretty slick. The instructions are OK and include pictures, but you need to use a bigger hole saw than they recommend for the underside of the hood, especially if you're using scuff plates that have hardware requiring access from the underside of the hood (e.g. nuts securing bolts from the scuff plates on the hood)


The pins that came with the hoodpins.net kit had to be cut down from 6" which was easy since they're aluminum. Placed them in a vice and used a cutting wheel on my Dremel...didn't even need to start up my compressor. I suggest you put a nut on them so you can use it to straighten the thread where you cut it, just in case. Wasn't a problem but you never know.




I picked up these landyards on the cheap from Summit. I haven't used them yet but they look to be of good quality.


So let's get it on...

Get the hood release latch out of the way and pop up the beer holders and then pull the plastic pins away from the quarter panel. If you haven't done it, it's easy. Just grab and pull. Three metal retainers will pop right out and the plastic is very flexible...you won't break anything.




Tape the Petty's Garage mount templates and use a 1 1/4 to 1 1/2" hole saw to drill the holes for the mounts/pins. The directions state 1" but I used a 1 1/8" and recommend going 1 1/4" if you're using a kit that comes with hardware like the nuts that come with the hoodpins.net kit to secure the the scuff plates / mounts to the hood. It'll make your life easier...


Get a good hole saw not the cheap ones like at Harbor Freight. One of those came apart on me and that's no fun. If you get one at the hardware store, be sure it comes with the arbor and pilot drill or you'll be going back ;) I like drilling a small hole with a 1/8" or 1/4" bit to guide the pilot bit on the hole saw


I used an exacto knife to smooth out the soft plastic around the hole


Remove this bolt for one of three attachments on the Petty's mounts


The only semi tricky part of the Petty's mounts is this bolt and nut which require a bit of finesse and some shorter tools. I got one of those finger ratchets for sockets that's about the size of a half dollar...three different sizes dirt cheap at Harbor Freight and they come in handy for these tight spaces. You'll see the bolt/nut better in the pic two below this one through the oval shaped hole in the cross member...it's the silver one


Note that we're putting some nice Petty's hardware in one of the mount holes for the cup holders so later we'll need to cut one of the nipples off the end of those cup holders...not a biggie since there are two to secure the cup holder to the fender




This nipple has to go and a utility knife cut it off w/o much effort
 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
This allen bolt blocks where that nipple went


Here it is removed...nice and clean


So here's the handy marking pin that comes with the Petty's Garage mount kit


I used an awl to put a groove in for the 1/8" drill bit I started with. Then used a one a bit bigger so that the pilot drill from the hole saw would go in w/o problems


As mentioned earlier, I used a 1 1/8" hole saw even though a 1" was recommended in the instructions from Petty's. In hindsight, I think 1.5" would have been better because the shape of the underside of the hood is such that there's almost no space between the top section of the hood and the underside of the hood up near the nose of the car and getting the mounting hardware tightened up for the scuff plates was a bear w/ the small hole I made.


I had to bend one of these small wrenches in the vise to get to the hardware but I managed.


Now you use the marking pin on the underside of the top portion of the hood and you drill your hole for the pilot on the hole saw from underneath. I then taped around it so I could then come down from the top with the hole saw. Now here's the deal that separates the men from the boys... That hood is beautiful and it's aluminum. The hole saw, even a good one, requires a fair amount of pressure to cut through, even if you let the saw do the work, so you're really flexing the hood more than your realize until you let up on it. Fortunately, it bounces right back but man, it will wake you up :huh:


Now that hole looks pretty darn good, but below you'll see that the nuts that come with the hood pin kit to hold the pins to the mounts are fairly large, and making that hole on the underside of the hood say 1.5" will save some grief later...




If you decide to use your handy Dremel to smooth out the cuts from the hole saw, I'd suggest using a barrel shaped attachment and not this one unle you're really careful. Sandpaper would probably be that safest bet and I'd certainly only use sandpaper or the like on the top of the hood to avoid marring your paint up there. I'll be getting some grommets from Ace Hardware or using some vacuum line that's been split to cover the edges of the holes under the hood.


This kit is sweet and they raise the edges of the scuff plates by a few 10000th's of an inch so you don't scuff the paint around the edges. No need for any pad underneath...nice :D Just don't overtighten the hardware that holds the scuff plates in place so you don't bend your hood. Another nice touch on this kit...you'll see there's a washer that has rubber on the bottom so the nut that holds the pin to the mount doesn't scuff it


 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
To get my hood pin locks lined up from side to side and along the grooves in the scuff plates, I used the eyelets in the pins themselves as crosshairs and eyeball them. Then I used my awl to hold them in place while I cranked down the locking nuts. This is after I got the height of the pins right above the scuff plate so that the locking pins put just enough pressure on the scuff plate so they're not bouncing around while I beat on my car ;)




The way I lined up where to drill the mounting points for the scuff plates is place painter tape under them, then rotated them on the pins until the grooves for the locking pins were pointing at each other from each side and I was sure the pin fit through the center hole as evenly as possible. Then I marked the masking tape for my drill holes. Starting with a small 3/32" bit and going up to just bigger than the mounting hardware.



I press down on the hood slightly to put the locking pins in place and remove them so I don't mess up the paint on the scuff plates too much. It's not a biggie since the locking pins cover that part of the scuff plates anyway...






Ready for the Texas Mile B)


HemiSam
 

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That's a "ballsy" mod and a very detailed write-up. I think my wife could follow you directions with no problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks, guys. Hopefully it's of some use to the next guy intent on punching holes in a perfectly good hood...

HemiSam
 

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Sam,

Looks great.

I have a set of flush style hood pins in the garage. Just not enough time to install them. Luckily my hood is still in primer, another time issue, so drilling is not so intimidating.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Thanks, DJN.

Hey K! How's that beast of yours coming along and have you had time for any more road racing? I'm finally getting a proper cage installed so I can use a 5 pt harness and I'm also having an SFI rated bell housing installed while I'm there. Maybe a few other bits I don't want to brave myself ;-)

HemiSam
 
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