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Discussion Starter #1
curious if anyone has any experience with the hop not stage 1 and 2 kits.. do they work? or is it a huge waste of money.

trying to help the wheel hop. already broke one diff and don't want to do another one
 

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Sorry to hear of your troubles. Unfortunately, the wheel-hop issue seems to be a rather vexing issue for many Challenger owners, especially M6 versions. There are numerous threads discussing the topic on this forum. As far as the success rate of the Hop-Not kits, it seems to me that many have experienced significant improvement, but it doesn't always correct the issue 100%.

In my case (I have an 11 SRT8 M6), I had a minor wheel-hop that seemed to go away when I installed lowering springs and new tires with a slightly taller sidewall. Keep doing your research. Start with the simple and inexpensive things first and see how it goes.

Best of luck to you!
 

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ya, i have looked at solid cradle bushings but i don't feel like dropping the whole rear end of the car out. that is why i was interested in this.. i would have thought with almost 700hp to the wheels i would have blown thru it but i still get it from time to time and after the diff cracked i don't want to mess with this again lol
 

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Dropping the cradle and replacing all of the bushings with either stiffer urethane, or solid ones seems to be a last option in terms of complexity and expense. It may be necessary, but I would try several of the less expensive and simpler options first. Sometimes it is a combination of things that will ultimately yield the best result, as opposed to a one shot-one kill method.

I certainly understand your concerns over the rear diff. May want to take it easy until you get a handle on this hop. Like I mentioned earlier, keep researching and you will get a better feel as to how much success the HOP Not kits have provided. Consider emailing the kit manufacturer and let them know your concerns and the specifics about your situation. Things like year, make, model, auto or M6, type and size of tires etc. They might very well be able to guide you to a solution more quickly and directly. Doesn't cost anything to simply ask right?
 

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I put both stages on my car (what a b*tch let me tell ya) on my 2013 RT that was completely stock suspension and tire/rims. It cured some of it but not all when launching at the drag strip (it made about 400 to the tire at that time).

After I went to a 17" rim and 305 rear tires, it dead hooks all motor, no hop at all. It also has no hop on nitrous out of the hole (north of 500 to the tire) with only a split second of spin.

Better rear axles will help with the hop not kits but the real issue originates from lack of tire sidewall. You simply need more rubber. 18s are the absolute minimum I would go with when trying to hard launch a challenger but the more sidewall the better.
 

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curious if anyone has any experience with the hop not stage 1 and 2 kits.. do they work? or is it a huge waste of money.

trying to help the wheel hop. already broke one diff and don't want to do another one
It helped the wheel hop on the old Scat Pack but it was still there. I think I'm going to try the Per4mance diff brace as there is a lot of positive feedback for wheel hop and diff strengthening.
https://www.facebook.com/Per4ManceDevelopment/
 

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Discussion Starter #7
ya i have considered a smaller rim and more side wall but i don't care for the look. i have dss axles and dss driveshaft. as for a rear end brace.. i have looked at coming up with a way to make something for the getrag.. the issue is the single bolt in the front.. the newer cars are bolted up in 4 places vs 3 like the getrag.

i may start with there bushing kit and see how that goes.. heck i could make the same thing out of flat plate and save a bunch of money.. don't need to encapsulate the things. just getting rid of the bushing nubs and having a plate for the bolt to tighten to is really all it is doing, ( gets the deflection of the rubber down ) but i don't think that will fix it.
 

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I did the stage 1 on my 2010 M6 and am VERY pleased with the almost complete elimination of axle windup and the "bouncing" it produced getting the car moving. I think it helped the handling as well since the cradle doesn't move around during cornering anymore.
 

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The Hop Not kit does work - but it's not a complete cure. Other things which will help (some already mentioned):

Drag radials with a softer side wall.
A smaller wheel with a taller sidewall.
Rear strut bar (this helped a lot).
Rear tension arms (these helped a lot too).

The combination of all these things have eliminated about 95% of my wheel hop. The Nitto drag radials have a soft sidewall and flex under launch load and stay in contact with the pavement instead of bouncing up and down like a stiff summer performance tire.

The worst I get now is a mild fluttering and most of the time it's just a smooth and controlled wheel spin for a few revolutions and it's hooked and gone.
 

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curious if anyone has any experience with the hop not stage 1 and 2 kits.. do they work? or is it a huge waste of money.

trying to help the wheel hop. already broke one diff and don't want to do another one
I installed the stage II on mine, I have the M6. It did eliminate most of it. It stiffened up the rear suspension due to the additional shocks. I think there may be some binding of the shocks within some of the travel. I noticed the suspension doesnt travel as far when the car is lifted. shocks are at a pretty steep angle. But okay within the usual range.

If you want to really ensure you cure the wheel hop new urethane bushings are a better bet(all in the rear suspension). The wheel hop is caused by the flexation of the rear craddle and other bushings in the rear suspension. The tires get traction then the cradle moves or control arms etc.. which changes the caster and camber of the wheels it loses traction again then bounces back then it starts all over again.

Sent from my SM-T350 using Tapatalk
 

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I installed the stage II on mine, I have the M6. It did eliminate most of it. It stiffened up the rear suspension due to the additional shocks. I think there may be some binding of the shocks within some of the travel. I noticed the suspension doesnt travel as far when the car is lifted. shocks are at a pretty steep angle. But okay within the usual range.

If you want to really ensure you cure the wheel hop new urethane bushings are a better bet(all in the rear suspension). The wheel hop is caused by the flexation of the rear craddle and other bushings in the rear suspension. The tires get traction then the cradle moves or control arms etc.. which changes the caster and camber of the wheels it loses traction again then bounces back then it starts all over again.

Sent from my SM-T350 using Tapatalk
Yup, Whiteline cradle bushings solved my wheelhop. Now I've been waiting since December :soapbox: for my DSS driveshaft to arrive so I can put drag radials on it.
 

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Nothing is going to completely eliminate wheel hop as long as the cradle is flexing on rubber bushings.

Cradle bushings should be your first step, not your last option.
 
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