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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm retired and got bored so I took a part-time job at a local parts store. This morning to took a truck load of oil do a dodge dealership. 0w40 Pennzoil ,0w40 mobil 1 European grade and 5w30 mobil 1. I asked the parts manger and also the shop forman what did they use 0w40 mobil 1 in. They both told me they use it when they are out of 0w40 Pennzoil. They only buy the Pennzoil when we have a special. Moral to the store is,just because you take your car to the dealership doesn't mean it gets the right oil and or service.
I use to own a Machine shop/engine shop so I'm a ware of some of the dishonesty that they pull.
 

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I buy my own SRT oil and SRT filters when it's on sale, and have a local shop do it all for me for like $30.
 
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I buy my own SRT oil and SRT filters when it's on sale, and have a local shop do it all for me for like $30.
This is a great idea. Especially when the dealership is 30 minutes from you.
I have a Discount Tire 5 minutes from my house. I have known the GM for over 10 years (he was previously at Big 10 then Pep Boys).
He does all the PM on my Firehawk's. I trust him. As I approach my first oil change (1400 miles currently). I will just buy everything and take it to him.
 
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The Bacon Hauler (‘12 Cop Charger)
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As I approach my first oil change (1400 miles currently).
If you drain it before you hit 2500, don’t let them recycle it! Tell them to pour it back in the empty new oil bottles and bring it back home with you. Then box it up and ship it to me!

The Bacon Hauler hasn’t seen 7 qts of the same brand (or weight) of engine oil in several OCIs, so it would be thrilled to get 7 slightly used quarts of PUP, especially all in 0w-40.

I’ll throw another 10K miles on it and then send it to the recycler! That ought to save at least half a polar bear or so, right??
 

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If you drain it before you hit 2500, don’t let them recycle it! Tell them to pour it back in the empty new oil bottles and bring it back home with you. Then box it up and ship it to me!

The Bacon Hauler hasn’t seen 7 qts of the same brand (or weight) of engine oil in several OCIs, so it would be thrilled to get 7 slightly used quarts of PUP, especially all in 0w-40.

I’ll throw another 10K miles on it and then send it to the recycler! That ought to save at least half a polar bear or so, right??
I am actually conflicted as to when to get it done. So many different opinions. Dealer says 7K. Members here have said 500 miles, really?
Someone posted it's to get the metallic particulates from break in out. Isn't that what the damn SRT filter is for?
I agree though. If I had it done before 2K miles and could get it back I would put it in my 2001 F150 in a minute. Afraid to ask for recommendations because the cacophony is not helpful.
Maybe I will just have it done at 2500 and be done with it. Be here soon enough!
 

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2021 F8 Green Scat Pack Shaker
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I'm retired and got bored so I took a part-time job at a local parts store. This morning to took a truck load of oil do a dodge dealership. 0w40 Pennzoil ,0w40 mobil 1 European grade and 5w30 mobil 1. I asked the parts manger and also the shop forman what did they use 0w40 mobil 1 in. They both told me they use it when they are out of 0w40 Pennzoil. They only buy the Pennzoil when we have a special. Moral to the store is,just because you take your car to the dealership doesn't mean it gets the right oil and or service.
I use to own a Machine shop/engine shop so I'm a ware of some of the dishonesty that they pull.
What? 0w40 is 0w40, no matter which brand...
 

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What? 0w40 is 0w40, no matter which brand...
The additives between brands are different. Certifications are different.
Not all is equal. IMO.
 

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The Bacon Hauler (‘12 Cop Charger)
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I am actually conflicted as to when to get it done. So many different opinions. Dealer says 7K. Members here have said 500 miles, really?
Someone posted it's to get the metallic particulates from break in out. Isn't that what the damn SRT filter is for?
I agree though. If I had it done before 2K miles and could get it back I would put it in my 2001 F150 in a minute. Afraid to ask for recommendations because the cacophony is not helpful.
Maybe I will just have it done at 2500 and be done with it. Be here soon enough!
I would say maybe you could put the debate to rest once and for all by changing yours early and sending a sample off for a UOA to be done on it, and then posting up the results, but I know that no matter what that analysis showed in the way of ppm particle counts (elevated or not), the debate would continue to rage on for all eternity.

There will be some who will never waiver from their stated position, no matter how much evidence to the contrary is presented to them. No use in trying to change their minds by expending personal resources, best to leave those for personal needs and expenditures. :whistle:
 
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
What? 0w40 is 0w40, no matter which brand...
Can you show me where 0w40 mobil 1 European oil meets ms12633 spec. Now mine you I have been using mobil 1 since 1990. I also have a 2019 vette that requires 0w40 mobil 1 dexco 2 ( not 0w40 mobil 1 European) Since the factory tells you what spec the oil needs to be and the dealership ignores it than mister smarty pants they are a " stealership" If you need any education on oils,I suggest that you send off some samples of different oils to get a analyzes on them. Or are you one of many that thinks all oil is the same!
Tell a owner of a older muscle with a flat tappet cam that all oils are the same. Next call a cam grinder and tell them that you can run any oil in engine with flat tappets (zinc doesnt matter)

True. But saying they are a "stealership" because they use one brand over another is stupidity.
The only "stupidity" is using a oil that doesnt meet spec.
 

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This is a great idea. Especially when the dealership is 30 minutes from you.
I have a Discount Tire 5 minutes from my house. I have known the GM for over 10 years (he was previously at Big 10 then Pep Boys).
He does all the PM on my Firehawk's. I trust him. As I approach my first oil change (1400 miles currently). I will just buy everything and take it to him.
seriously, you are willing to drill holes in the hood of your new car but don't change your oil? i picked up a few cases of pup and a dozen filters off the net, ill change it every 6 months weather i think it needs it or not..while i love the car it's not my daily driver so i doubt any oil change will get over 2500mi and the winter oil will be lucky to see 200mi.

im thinking ill drain the winter oil and put it in my truck every spring,

no way im recycling oil with 200 mi on it.

my dealership will only see the car again if any warranty issues come to light
 

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True. But saying they are a "stealership" because they use one brand over another is stupidity.
It's not brand, it's the required MS certification. When they require you use an oil with a certain certification, but then use one that doesn't have it because they don't have the required oil. It's surely not following their own rules from corporate. Imagine having an engine failure, they do an analysis and determine you didn't use a certified oil. "But you guys did the change!"..."Not our decision, it's corporate"...

A Guy
 
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2020 Dodge Challenger Hellraisin Scat Pack
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I am actually conflicted as to when to get it done. So many different opinions. Dealer says 7K. Members here have said 500 miles, really?
Someone posted it's to get the metallic particulates from break in out. Isn't that what the damn SRT filter is for?
I agree though. If I had it done before 2K miles and could get it back I would put it in my 2001 F150 in a minute. Afraid to ask for recommendations because the cacophony is not helpful.
Maybe I will just have it done at 2500 and be done with it. Be here soon enough!
For my 2018 Hellcat I had the oil changed around the 500 mile mark. The oil on the dipstick was quite dark. I just took it on faith it was contaminated -- turbo/super charged engines experience quite a bit more blow by than N/A engines -- and with all the "talk" of Hemi tick this and that and lifters failing at the roller bearing I just decided to err on the side of caution.

(About 2 months before I bought the Hellcat I bought a new 2018 MINI JCW. This came with a turbocharged engine. I had its oil changed at just over 500 miles.)

When I had the Hellcat oil changed the oil was not captured and the filter not opened up but with other engines -- one in particular that was N/A -- with a filter element the filter housing oil was loaded with metal, fine metal particles. And this with "just" 750 miles on the oil.

(The engine had no dipstick by which to "check" the oil's color.)

Yes, the metal particles was in the oil in filter housing oil kept there by the filter. So the filter was doing its job. But my concern was regarding the filter high pressure bypass. At what point does this open and when it does let all that nasty oil flow to the engine? I decided to not risk it and that in part drove me to change the oil at 750 miles, or in the case of the Hellcat with 500 miles.

With my 2018 Scat Pack and my 2020 Scat Pack I waited longer -- to around 1500 miles -- before having the oil changed. The oil on the dipstick didn't get nearly as dark as did the Hellcat's oil.

As case could be made to change the the oil at 500 miles (or even fewer miles) for it is at a rather low number of miles that the factory break in guidelines say it is time to make more use of the engine's RPM range.

From my 2020's owners manual:

300 to 500 miles (483 to 805 km):

Exercise the full engine RPM range, shifting manually at higher RPM when possible.


For my 2020 SP I admit I didn't open up the engine that much even after 500 miles. Part of the reason was I bought the car in mid Nov. 2020 and with its high performance tires and the colder weather when I did drive the car I didn't feel like pushing it that hard on high performance tires on cold pavement.

Then the weather got pretty bad. And I was in the hospital a few days just before Christmas. (Entered via ER.) While I was discharged on Christmas Eve it took some time before I was back to 100%. And the weather was worse. This area had a pretty uncharacteristic spell of harsh winter weather, a pretty bad cold spell with inches of snow with it.

Had I bought the car in say summer I would have probably had the oil changed at around 500 miles as I then began to open the engine up more.

Yes, it is your car and you can do as you wish. If you choose to follow the owners manual/factory in this regard you can wait until 6K miles (or 6 months) before you change the oil.

My exposure to engine building -- and later my experience as a journeyman machinist -- though opened my eyes to how much metal -- small metal particles -- new engines shed and ever since my new cars get an early oil/filter service, sometimes several.
 

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True. But saying they are a "stealership" because they use one brand over another is stupidity.
But if they, as a dealership, use a non-approved oil per the manufacturer, they are either being stupid or dishonest. Or both.

seriously, you are willing to drill holes in the hood of your new car but don't change your oil? i picked up a few cases of pup and a dozen filters off the net, ill change it every 6 months weather i think it needs it or not..while i love the car it's not my daily driver so i doubt any oil change will get over 2500mi and the winter oil will be lucky to see 200mi.

im thinking ill drain the winter oil and put it in my truck every spring,

no way im recycling oil with 200 mi on it.

my dealership will only see the car again if any warranty issues come to light
If I had a flat drive way I would. But if you look at the picture in my hood pin post you will see that it is very steep and makes under car work very difficult and to some degree dangerous.
Also, I have back issues from my days of racing motocross that adds to the problem of laying on the ground under a car. I will do a vehicle that is easy to access (changed the oil on my son's Chevy 1500 yesterday) but the Challenger is so low to the ground and my understanding is that there is the under body shield to deal with as well.
I did consider paying $400 for Race Ramps but I can pay the shop to take care of it for me a bunch of times for that.

For my 2018 Hellcat I had the oil changed around the 500 mile mark. The oil on the dipstick was quite dark. I just took it on faith it was contaminated -- turbo/super charged engines experience quite a bit more blow by than N/A engines -- and with all the "talk" of Hemi tick this and that and lifters failing at the roller bearing I just decided to err on the side of caution.

(About 2 months before I bought the Hellcat I bought a new 2018 MINI JCW. This came with a turbocharged engine. I had its oil changed at just over 500 miles.)

When I had the Hellcat oil changed the oil was not captured and the filter not opened up but with other engines -- one in particular that was N/A -- with a filter element the filter housing oil was loaded with metal, fine metal particles. And this with "just" 750 miles on the oil.

(The engine had no dipstick by which to "check" the oil's color.)

Yes, the metal particles was in the oil in filter housing oil kept there by the filter. So the filter was doing its job. But my concern was regarding the filter high pressure bypass. At what point does this open and when it does let all that nasty oil flow to the engine? I decided to not risk it and that in part drove me to change the oil at 750 miles, or in the case of the Hellcat with 500 miles.

With my 2018 Scat Pack and my 2020 Scat Pack I waited longer -- to around 1500 miles -- before having the oil changed. The oil on the dipstick didn't get nearly as dark as did the Hellcat's oil.

As case could be made to change the the oil at 500 miles (or even fewer miles) for it is at a rather low number of miles that the factory break in guidelines say it is time to make more use of the engine's RPM range.

From my 2020's owners manual:

300 to 500 miles (483 to 805 km):

Exercise the full engine RPM range, shifting manually at higher RPM when possible.


For my 2020 SP I admit I didn't open up the engine that much even after 500 miles. Part of the reason was I bought the car in mid Nov. 2020 and with its high performance tires and the colder weather when I did drive the car I didn't feel like pushing it that hard on high performance tires on cold pavement.

Then the weather got pretty bad. And I was in the hospital a few days just before Christmas. (Entered via ER.) While I was discharged on Christmas Eve it took some time before I was back to 100%. And the weather was worse. This area had a pretty uncharacteristic spell of harsh winter weather, a pretty bad cold spell with inches of snow with it.

Had I bought the car in say summer I would have probably had the oil changed at around 500 miles as I then began to open the engine up more.

Yes, it is your car and you can do as you wish. If you choose to follow the owners manual/factory in this regard you can wait until 6K miles (or 6 months) before you change the oil.

My exposure to engine building -- and later my experience as a journeyman machinist -- though opened my eyes to how much metal -- small metal particles -- new engines shed and ever since my new cars get an early oil/filter service, sometimes several.
I agree. And I am keeping an eye on the color and subjective feel of the oil (agree or not, at my age and experience, I think I can rub the oil between my fingers and get a feel for it's lubricity). It still looks and feels like new.
That being said, between now and 2500K it will be changed. IMO, that's a reasonable approach.
 
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