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For a '10 3.5, how much of a horsepower buildup can the engine take on a stock motor? I've seen the insanely overpriced $5000+ :icon_eek: bolt-on supercharger kit, how about a 100 or 150 hp nitrous kit?
 

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For a '10 3.5, how much of a horsepower buildup can the engine take on a stock motor? I've seen the insanely overpriced $5000+ :icon_eek: bolt-on supercharger kit, how about a 100 or 150 hp nitrous kit?
As Tony said, the internals of the 3.5 engine are forged, 4 bolt mains etc. It is a very robust engine. Consider that stock you have a 214 cubic inch engine that produces at the crank 250 HP and with a supercharger and modest 6 psi boost I was making 260->280 HP at the rear wheels which is about 320 HP at the crank.

You will discover that the cost of power adders is blind to SE, R/T, and SRT8. $5000 for a blower is about average (perhaps inexpensive) and proper tuning on a dyno can run $100/hour. It is what it is.

Nitrous oxide works, albeit I am not a big fan as I have seen too many spectacular balls of flame and melted engine compartments, hoods flying in the air and the dual runner system on the upper intake just looks like a problematic spot to puddle, but it can and has been done with a good system and tune.

As previously mentioned by Tony, any major power adder can easily destroy your engine. I posted a picture from Chad.Darcy that is now on the R/T forum to show you what detonation from an improper tune producing a very lean mixture and just 4 psi more boost than I was running can do. This took 5 minutes. Just a note of caution. Computer controlled tuning has its complexities.
 

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stand alone fuel injection, forged pistons at CR of 9.0. I'd say about 600 HP or so, before something like a con rod would twist out of the block, or a bore would cave.

Now how long could that power be applied? I'd think one autoX would melt the engine as the thermal load is too high, and I don't know if this engine has an oil jet piston cooler.

All trade offs, a turbo 1.8 VTEC street driven by me, blast on the weekends 40 1/4 mile runs a year. 350 HP say for 4 to 5 years and around 50K miles. Forged everything of course. Add 100 HP to the setup, would cut that by 1/2 to 3/4. One of the bearings would lose crush or the wall would cave (even sleeved) or a valve would over heat and drop into the engine. something.

Back to the V6 pure street 100K miles, forged pistons, good rings, good tune, don't beat on it like you stole it, and and intercooled setup, 350 to 450 HP.

Beat on it every day, stock pistons, 100K miles err um 250 HP.. :scratchhead: OK maybe the 6 PSI and 320 HP mentioned above... maybe. Depends on the tune.

I got zero experience with the Mopar ECU, but I can tell you in general that modern closed loop ULEV ECU don't like boost, and there is a rather abrupt transition from closed loop steady state, good smog, good MPG to open loop power mode. Honda guys have for many many years now always gone back to the OBDI ECU older than 1996 as they are just easier to map and for the most part never even look at the 02 in closed loop mode, ie close loop mode is for idle and maybe 1/8 throttle positions or below... other than that it is open loop all the way. Like I said take it with a grain of salt, but most NA ECU don't like boost if you are talking just normal driving, the transition from NA and light boost to medium or heavy boost... drives um crazy.

Ford is getting some really good longevity numbers with the V6 ecoboost:
Ford Demonstrates Ecoboost V6’s Reliability in Detroit - The Car Guide

For numbers sake a solid 350 HP from 8 to 10 PSI of intercooled boost, good tune, forged pistons, 3.92 posi rear, high stall in a 5 speed, you would be slightly faster then a R/T bout as quick, and the build would cost about $10,000 to $15,000. Just round numbers.

For my money might as well look for a Supra engine 2jzgte and getrag 6 speed, you would see an easy 100 HP to that number and the sky is limit on the engine itself, the limit being the budget. fast and furry Tokyo drift style, upgrade the rear to a 3.92 posi and 216 mm axles cause the stock setup would blowup on the first run.

http://www.suprastore.com/2jzgteengine.html
 

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I think a nitrous kit would be the easiest thing, but as someone mentioned, the 2 way intake might be a problem. Unless a full multipoint N2O system was put in. That would be a real plumbing headache!

I've been over at turbododge.com for many years and turbo-mopar.com also.

One engine that LOVES to be boosted is the Chrysler / Mitsubishi 3.0 V6 6G72 that Chrysler put in millions of cars and minivans in the 80s-90s. Turbododge has a 3.0 Turbo section, and a few people are using a turbo and a MegaSquirt controller to go over 500 hp.

Even on 6-8 psi the 6G72 shows large gains.
 

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As for overpriced, most hemi supercharger kits start at $6999 and go up to nearly $10k.

As for nitrous, wishing for hemi on the LX site has a no2 setup on his 3.5L.

For a '10 3.5, how much of a horsepower buildup can the engine take on a stock motor? I've seen the insanely overpriced $5000+ :icon_eek: bolt-on supercharger kit, how about a 100 or 150 hp nitrous kit?
 

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For a '10 3.5, how much of a horsepower buildup can the engine take on a stock motor? I've seen the insanely overpriced $5000+ :icon_eek: bolt-on supercharger kit, how about a 100 or 150 hp nitrous kit?
I'm running a Zex 75hp wet shot on my 3.5 and it eats SRT8's across intersections ...

it's safe as long as your fuel pressure is good and go down 1 heat range on the plugs , premium fuel and octaine boost
I'd stay away from the 100hp + shot unless you have the gap in the rings opened up a bit
 
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