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Discussion Starter #1
Hello Fello Mopar Mavens,

Have had my 2010 SRT, M6 for about 7 months and 600 miles now. Bought it last summer at a Toyota dealer when I was looking for a work truck.
It had 8,200 original miles and a Magnason supercharger. Other than a 3 inch cat back exhaust I believe it to be stock.

The car flyies and has been great fun. Traction can be a little difficult, especially in 1st and 2nd (once I figured out how to turn off traction control).

I have been considering taking it to Gulfport dragway just to see how fast/slow it really is.

Taking it on street tires (recently put Continental extremes on it) would be a waist of time as I know with street tires I will have less traction than on the street.

Only option is a pair of drag radials.

My concern is I don't know what the stock axles, diff, or drive shafts can handle.

Right now I really cant hurt anything because the tires will just spin.

If I got this beast to hook I am afraid I would break something.

So can I go to the track, or should I start saving for axles, drive shaft first?
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Please, any and all words of wisdom would be appreciated.

Thank you for your time,

Varooom
 

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If you want to know how fast the car is take it to the track on street tires. (Show up at the track with fresh oil and filter in the engine.) With the street tires this gives you a good idea of how fast the car is in its stock setup, well, ignoring I guess the addition of the supercharger.

Anyhow, you establish a base line. At the track maybe you will run into owners of similar cars and they can advise you on what probably should be replaced.

There are I guess two basic ways of approaching this. One would be to just run the car as it is until something breaks then replace what breaks with something better. At the same time you might consider beefing up related hardware. For instance say an axle broke. If you replace the axles with tougher ones the failure can move up to the diff, the gears. So maybe along with new tougher axles you want to install a tougher/more durable diff or at least gear sets.

The other way would be to replace things proactively. But you are faced with what to replace and with what (better) hardware. Your time at the track talking to others might provide you with some answers.

But being proactive can be expensive. (The other way too.) New axles. Maybe new diff. A clutch to take the abuse. And so on. And all before you even put a tire on the track.
 

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2011 392 SRT, 2010 R/T Classic, 2019 R/T Plus, 2016 SXT Plus
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All I can say is that a friend of mine was able to break his rear end in a mostly stock 2011 392 with an M6. He went to a viper rear end.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Rockster:
Thank you, definitely words of wisdom and that is just what I will do.

I just thought that with all the experience on this site someone would know just what the stock drive train could handle.
I will go to the track next Wednesday as you suggest and run it on the street tires. I don't think I will get enough traction to break anything:surprise:
I will skip the drag radials for now.

DonP: Not what I wanted to hear but appreciate your honesty. That is scarry that it would tear up stock.

Thanks again,

Varooom
 

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I personally think the #1 and #2 contributors to axle and driveshaft breakage are in order, Wheel Hop
and Stick Cars. Wheel hop can happen on an auto or stick and when it happens it's just pounding the driveline with
shock loading and it can destroy the axles quickly. The other issue is on stick cars, if you have a car that
can hook and you dump the clutch and hit those gears hard, that's a lot of shock to the driveline and parts
will break.

Sadly there's no way to say how "soon" they will break. They could break on the first pass or not at all and
it's literally like Russian Roulette.
 

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2014 Dodge Challenger
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I mean if you dead hook in anything you're going to break something sooner or later.
If you're running low PSI I wouldn't worry. Anytime you go to the track you can risk tearing it up, replacing the axles is just gonna move the weak point up, until you've replaced every drive line component in the car!
Soo go to the track man and have fun with drag radials, going once and making a few passes I doubt you would put enough strain to destroy your drive line, continuous abuse yeah probably.
 

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2014 SRT Core
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Boosted Stroked 2014 Shaker M6
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I'm replacing the drive shaft on mine with an aluminum one piece before I go to drag radials. I'm also replacing the cradle bushings due to the extreme wheel hop I have, but that's with the stock wheels and tires. I'm not worried about the rear axle or anything else... yet. :scratchhead:
 

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Gforce makes a rear end and so does drive shaft shop. Uses for 9 inch gears
U have to buy a drive shaft and axles specific for that
Will run over 8 grand

Wheel hop is caused by grip. Release of traction and grip and back and forth
Cradle bushings seam to be the culprit. Using poly bushings also seam to eliminate it.
I have 680 hp to the tires
I have a dss axles and drive shaft. Wheel hop cracked my differential and took out the pinion bearings

My suggestion to anyone such as myself with a 6speed is replace cradle bushings BEFORE you fork over 2800 for axles and driveshaft
When I do mine in a few weeks I will sell you the tools when I am done if you like



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #11
us1champ,

Found differential bushing kit and suspension subframe kit.

No mention of a cradle kit on Energy Suspension website.

I assume these 2 kits will do it?

thanks for your time,

Varooom
 

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Boosted Stroked 2014 Shaker M6
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