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Discussion Starter #1
I am thinking this will be the next mod on my 5.7. Searching "Google" for challenger and cam, even these forums brings a lot of ambiguous info.

So I know a cam effects timing, timing moves the power curve of the engine out put. Do cams = horsepower though?

How exactly do you choose a cam? It seems inefficient to roll the dice, go through install and then find you don't like it, uninstall and try again.

Lol, is there a "Idiot's Guide" to understanding cams?


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My advice is leave the cam alone on a street car.Most cams move the power to the upper RPMs and car becomes a dog at low RPMs.Get some headers,a cat back exhaust,a CAI and a tune as a start.I just have CAI and exhaust on mine.It is a 5.7lL and I am quite pleased with it but I am not a racer.Just like old school sound and feel as well as the comfort of the car and have always been a Mopar man.If you want more and have deep pockets get a supercharger.The only cam change I would do would be if I was removing the mds from my Challenger but luckily it is a 2015 so you can turn it off in sport mode.Good luck to you.
 

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Talk to an expert like Jay Greene at Greene Racing, he'll go over what you want and then recommend a kit for you. https://www.facebook.com/greeneracing.tuning/?ref=br_rs

I just did a Green Racing cam and the car did not loose any low end torque and has more mid to top end power. I have the before and after dyno sheets if your are interested

Do it, you'll be happy...

Dyno run after the cam
 

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Tossing in a cam isn't like it was in the pre computer controled days. Your new cam will need a tune, it will need to be compatible with your valvetrain (or you will need to change your valvetrain), and more.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I appreciate everyone's responses, I should have included more information in my post.

I have a 15 Shaker 5.7 r/t manual. I have a outlaw catback, CAI, thermostat and a custom tune from Hemifever. Supercharger is about 18 months out.

I guess my question is regarding the cam, which one to go with and how do I know? Lots of stuff out there about putting the ScatPack Cam in, others like above, mention independent sources.

Are all these cams the same size, just different brands?


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I appreciate everyone's responses, I should have included more information in my post.

I have a 15 Shaker 5.7 r/t manual. I have a outlaw catback, CAI, thermostat and a custom tune from Hemifever. Supercharger is about 18 months out.

I guess my question is regarding the cam, which one to go with and how do I know? Lots of stuff out there about putting the ScatPack Cam in, others like above, mention independent sources.

Are all these cams the same size, just different brands?


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If you are planning on doing a SC down the road then get a cam made for FI. What about headers..you going LT?
 

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"FI"? Headers I am not sure between shorties or longs. I am still reading the debate...


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FI = Forced Induction

LT headers give more power but sacrifice some ground clearance. If you don't have STP then you have 1" more of ground clearance. If you plan on doing shorties it will probably be cheaper to find a set of used manifolds off a 6.1 with mid-pipes and have it modified to plumb up to the cat-back.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
FI = Forced Induction



LT headers give more power but sacrifice some ground clearance. If you don't have STP then you have 1" more of ground clearance. If you plan on doing shorties it will probably be cheaper to find a set of used manifolds off a 6.1 with mid-pipes and have it modified to plumb up to the cat-back.


Ya, my Shaker has a STP. I don't mind the clearance issue though. I have read about picking up shorties from a 6.1, seems a easier way to go.

Thanks for clarifying the FI. Since I am going SC(ProCharger unless someone else releases a kit for the Shaker) should I just hold off on the cam till then? I am already going to have the front end torn apart anyway. It will make getting to the cam easier.


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probably best to consult with what cams work best for FI setups.

what works well for a Naturally Aspirated (NA), which is typically higher lift, longer duration, higher overlap isn't the best approach for FI engines.
-basically the SC cams don't need to longer intake event since the intake charge is forced into the engine.


Since you're looking at doing a SC setup in the future, probably wait it out.

You don't want to invest the time in tuning ['15+ require unlocked PCM] for a NA approach, only to re-work everything for the SC.

You want a cam that is suited for the conditions you would run the vehicle in most of the time. A (primarily) street driven car would be a good match for a cam that mainly makes most of the gains at 5K+ rpm, otherwise, you'd have to wind it out in every gear to see any advantage. Often the cam with the biggest power gains won't be the best on the street.

For a dedicated track car, that's a different set of priorities vs. street with occasional time at a track or road course.

For example: the Hellcat cam has shorter duration and overlap vs the NA 392/6.4 cam to make the power and flexibility with the SC system.
 

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Ya, my Shaker has a STP. I don't mind the clearance issue though. I have read about picking up shorties from a 6.1, seems a easier way to go.

Thanks for clarifying the FI. Since I am going SC(ProCharger unless someone else releases a kit for the Shaker) should I just hold off on the cam till then? I am already going to have the front end torn apart anyway. It will make getting to the cam easier.


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Installing the Cam is definitely more involved as you have to drop the oil pan, disconnect oil pick-up tube...etc, etc. IMO SC will give most bang for the buck with minimal teardown required. I should have had everything installed at once but I like to take things one step at a time (honestly don't have the funds to do it all at once) and I like to do all my own work (except for the tuning...but maybe one day). Yeah, I have to pay for multiple tunes but that is the price to do things my way. My buddy who has a procharged BMW decided to do a cam, procharger, headers and water/meth all at once and he went through 3 different shops to get the tune right. If you don't plan on doing the work yourself then by all means, work with shops like MM, API, SW as everything I have read about them makes me trust them more than anyone local. The smartest way is to have everything done at once but for a lot of people that is not reality.
 

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If the end result is a reality, then those who cannot do it all at once just need to be patient and put the money away until they've saved enough to do it all at once. It's not that difficult of a concept to grasp. Also, I've read a thread on here somewhere that a guy messed up big time by doing the cam and headers first without considering that the SC kit was made for a stock motor, so be careful with cam selection.
 

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If the end result is a reality, then those who cannot do it all at once just need to be patient and put the money away until they've saved enough to do it all at once. It's not that difficult of a concept to grasp. Also, I've read a thread on here somewhere that a guy messed up big time by doing the cam and headers first without considering that the SC kit was made for a stock motor, so be careful with cam selection.
I don't think it was a big mess up, the "tune" was simply meant for a stock motor which is what you get if you buy an off-the-shelf SC. When I bought my SC from API, I filled out a form where I had to specify what has been done to the vehicle (cam, heads, headers....) to so they could send a good base tune. Even though I had a stock motor I still had issues with the first couple of tunes which API eventually addressed. Don't forget a lot of people still have car payments to deal with and it's hard to save for mods when that money could be used to pay off the car. Usually if someone has an extra $10k-$20k saved up they most likely will be thinking of trading up to a HC. :grin2:
 

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Installing the Cam is definitely more involved as you have to drop the oil pan, disconnect oil pick-up tube...etc, etc. IMO SC will give most bang for the buck with minimal teardown required. I should have had everything installed at once but I like to take things one step at a time (honestly don't have the funds to do it all at once) and I like to do all my own work (except for the tuning...but maybe one day). Yeah, I have to pay for multiple tunes but that is the price to do things my way. My buddy who has a procharged BMW decided to do a cam, procharger, headers and water/meth all at once and he went through 3 different shops to get the tune right. If you don't plan on doing the work yourself then by all means, work with shops like MM, API, SW as everything I have read about them makes me trust them more than anyone local. The smartest way is to have everything done at once but for a lot of people that is not reality.


Why would you have to drop the oil pan and pick up for cam install? If the shop has experience in Hemi's they would know how to do it without.
 

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I don't think it was a big mess up, the "tune" was simply meant for a stock motor which is what you get if you buy an off-the-shelf SC. When I bought my SC from API, I filled out a form where I had to specify what has been done to the vehicle (cam, heads, headers....) to so they could send a good base tune. Even though I had a stock motor I still had issues with the first couple of tunes which API eventually addressed. Don't forget a lot of people still have car payments to deal with and it's hard to save for mods when that money could be used to pay off the car. Usually if someone has an extra $10k-$20k saved up they most likely will be thinking of trading up to a HC. :grin2:
Well, if I remember correctly, he put his R/T in storage and bought a Hellcat because he got so frustrated trying to make the R/T run right. That sounds pretty big to me. But what do I know. I paid cash for my R/T and have no desire to turn it into a Hellcat. I just thought the OP should know how important research is prior to making this much of an investment in performance. :)
 

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Why would you have to drop the oil pan and pick up for cam install? If the shop has experience in Hemi's they would know how to do it without.
One of the members here recently posted their cam swap and I remember reading something about dropping the pan. Never done one myself but it is done without dropping the pan I would definitely be more inclined to upgrade to a SC grind.

http://www.challengertalk.com/forums/f175/5-7-vvt-cam-installed-608369/?608369=#post7791609


I guess one does not have to drop the cam...according to this article:
http://www.powerperformancenews.com/tech-articles/hemi-horsepower-helper-100-horsepower-cam-swap/
 
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