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Discussion Starter #1
Could anyone tell me which wire to switch to totally disable the traction control on my srt8? I have a line lock for the track and don't want the rear brakes activating during burnouts. I know about holding the button down for a few seconds but that does not take it completely off.
 

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Could anyone tell me which wire to switch to totally disable the traction control on my srt8? I have a line lock for the track and don't want the rear brakes activating during burnouts. I know about holding the button down for a few seconds but that does not take it completely off.
Traction control has nothing to do with you using a line lock unless you have a 2011 or newer SRT8 or R/T that is capable of turning the esp completely off and are using a Hurst line lock. I don't think SLP has a line lock yet for the 2011 and 2012s. The hurst one is a little screwy and I would not use it. If you hold the button to lock the front brakes for more than 60 seconds on the Hurst model you can screw up the car or the roll control as Hurst calls it or both. I have used an SLP for years and had one on my 06 300c. No need to worry about the traction control being activated while doing a burn out on the older cars 06-09 I think.. As far as turning off the traction control it depends on what year your car is. The 2011 and newer SRT-8s and some R/Ts you push the traction control button and release it you will see the lighting bolt on the instrument cluster. Then push and hold the button again until you hear a chime. It is now turn completely off and will say so on the instrument cluster.
 

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I found on a dyno run that even with it shut off completely it still has the ability to activate, mine started to smoke the rear brakes in the middle of a run. At the track the way to completely shut it off is to pull the abs pump fuse. My last time at the track I ran 3 runs between 13.28 and 13.31 with the button method and upon pulling the fuse I ran a 13.11 and a 13.10 with no other changes.
 

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I found on a dyno run that even with it shut off completely it still has the ability to activate, mine started to smoke the rear brakes in the middle of a run. At the track the way to completely shut it off is to pull the abs pump fuse. My last time at the track I ran 3 runs between 13.28 and 13.31 with the button method and upon pulling the fuse I ran a 13.11 and a 13.10 with no other changes.
I am not sure what was happening on your dyno run. Why would it smoke the brakes the wheels were not slipping. I have had mine on a dyno a few time and never had this problem with the brakes and never heard of any one else having the problem. What year is your car. I have also never heard of pulling the fuse for the abs and getting better times at the strip. Are you sure it was the ABS fuse you pulled.
 

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It's a 10 RT with stp so it is supposed to completely disable. Out of 15 dyno runs it has only done it once but it tried to lock the rear brakes up on the run. It is the abs pump fuse that I remove and it is an entirely different car to drive when it is out. I also run traction control off on my tuner but it still isn't the same as just pulling the fuse
 

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ESP

One of our members, Powertec, posted the procedure to completely disable traction control for off road use (Note- this also disables the ABS). Here is the thread:

http://www.challengertalk.com/forums/f18/traction-control-bypass-mod-172009/

powertec :I've always held down the esp button for 7-10 seconds until it chimes and the esp off, bas and squiggly lines appear on the dash



>>>I don't have to hold it down for 7-10 sec. i just push ESP in and it chimes quick!
 

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powertec :I've always held down the esp button for 7-10 seconds until it chimes and the esp off, bas and squiggly lines appear on the dash



>>>I don't have to hold it down for 7-10 sec. i just push ESP in and it chimes quick!
I have a 2012 SRT and I have not turned the ESP off completely lately but I think you get one chime the first push and then push and hold and you get three chimes and it says its completely off on the dash. I also have a 300c 5.7 and the ESP on that 5.7 can not be completely turned off.
 

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ESP

I have a 2012 SRT and I have not turned the ESP off completely lately but I think you get one chime the first push and then push and hold and you get three chimes and it says its completely off on the dash. I also have a 300c 5.7 and the ESP on that 5.7 can not be completely turned off.


>>>ok so that is why when i press the second time and hold it down i do not get the 3 chimes but my ESP goes off and never comes back until i restart. i have a 2012 R/T..
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I did the disconnect switch today now I don't have to hold the button down for 8 seconds { not very handy when they are waiting for you to do a burnout} and works very well. Put the switch beside the power point inside the console compartment hidden and very functional.
 

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powertec :I've always held down the esp button for 7-10 seconds until it chimes and the esp off, bas and squiggly lines appear on the dash



>>>I don't have to hold it down for 7-10 sec. i just push ESP in and it chimes quick!
Do you have the STP on that auto R/T? If not all the button does is disable traction control and one push does it. What others are talking about is disabling ESP, and this takes a longer push (I just timed mine at less than 2 seconds, but it feels longer). Those are two separate functions that correspond to two different Mr.Squiggles icons. Apologies if you already know this, but there's a lot of confusion about this and also about how much the functions are disabled (it's about 80%). What powertec and now the OP did is to get 100% off on both TC & ESP.
 

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