Dodge Challenger Forum banner

1 - 20 of 99 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
107 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Well santa gave me some new speakers to install for xmas so I went ahead and put them in last weekend. I took some photos to do a writeup for everyone so that this is easier for anyone else.

Some technical info first...
Front Door Speakers - 6x9"
Dash Speakers 3.5" (not installed in this writeup)
Rear Speakers - 6.5"
Rear Deck Sub - 8" (not installed in this writeup)

Front and Rear Speaker Wiring:
Left Front Speaker Wire (+): Gray/Violet
Left Front Speaker Wire (-): Gray/Yellow
Right Front Speaker Wire (+): Dark Green/Violet
Right Front Speaker Wire (-): Dark Green/Yellow
Left Rear Speaker Wire (+): Dark Green/Tan
Left Rear Speaker Wire (-): Dark Green/Gray
Right Rear Speaker Wire (+): Dark Green/Brown
Right Rear Speaker Wire (-): Yellow/Gray

I do not know what the wiring would be for the 3.5" speakers or OEM sub location would be since my car was not equipped. I will need to rig an amp setup to my aftermarket radio to install these later if I chose.

I installed Infinity Kappa 692.9i 6X9" 2 ways in the front and Infinity Kappa 62.9i 6.5" 2 ways in the rear.

I've always liked the Kappa series and I also knew the 6.5" speakers had the needed adapter to install them (not all speaker manufacturers have the adapter so you will want to check first and buy some if they don't come with em).

Anyway with that said we get to the actual speaker install. We'll start with the doors. The only diff between each side is that the drivers side has 2 electrical plugs to remove, the passenger side (pictured here) has one.

Your first step will be to remove the plastic "rivets" from the front and rear of the door card. To do this, just push the center in about 1/8th of an inch or so with a screwdriver head and then carefully pry the whole rivet out with a plastic "bone" or a flathead screwdriver (the former prevents scratches and comes with those scoche radio install kits you can find at walmart or best buy). There are 7 total you will need to remove.



Now next you need to remove 5 phillips head screws. 3 are along the bottom of the door and are easy to get at. The other two are located behind the door grip and door release. These each have a small cover you need to pry open (but not off). The door grip one you just pry from the top grove to pop open, the release cover is a bit bore tricky, I had to push a small flathead in a little but at the top grove and then pull down and outwards at the same time to release.



Once they are removed there are 5 fir tree fasteners holding the door on. 3 at the top, 2 at the center. I just suggest pulling straight out at the bottom first to release the middle ones and then from the rear of the door to release the top ones. TARE CARE NOT TO PULL TOO FAR OUT. Your door release bar and a cable are still connected and you definitely don't wanna bend the release bar. Make sure not to drop the door at this point. It would be best to make sure you have a flathead screwdriver within reach for the next step.



The cable (or cables if you are working the drivers door) have a simple side clip you pull back to release. Nothing fancy. The release bar is harder to remove. My suggestion is carefully pry it off the bracket with a flathead. Having someone hold the door card will help but I did this myself. Once it pops off just pull up on the bar to release it from the pull handle and you can set the door card aside.



Now, as you can see you have easy access to the 6x9 speaker. It is attached to a plastic bracket via 4 torx screws. You will need a torx 15 bit to remove these and then just pull the speaker out and unclip it from the harness.



Continued in next post...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
107 Posts
Discussion Starter #2
Now bask in the glory of a one way paper cone OEM Chrysler 6x9" speaker made in mexico by the lowest bidder and will last just long enough for your warranty to expire...if you are lucky (note the consendation in the door).



OK here's the real crappy part. As you can see we now have this plastic bracket. YOU NEED THIS. Problem is it also happens to have a nice protective shroud at the top to keep water off the paper cones that probably soak up water like a dry sponge. While nice in theory, they will likely make it impossible to install aftermarket speakers. You'll have to somehow cut out the shroud at the edge so that you can install the speaker. I used an old soldering iron to melt it off since I didn't have my dremel with me. Whatever your method, just make it go away if the speakers don't fit and try to get some of those protective speaker covers that go on the back and keep water out.



Now, I applied some accumat (same as dynamat) to the edges of the bracket to cut down on vibrations. I always make sure the speaker to car mount interface has some. You can also prolly apply some to the door itself under the bracket (its only held to the door by 4 phillips head screws...god knows why they used torx for the speakers and phillips for the rest) but I didn't bother for now.

Next you will want to do one of two things. If you found speaker harnesses for the challenger than just plug these in and wire the speakers to the positive and negative (see the wire chart at the beginning). If you did not...which is likely as I search high and low at 5 different places (best buy, circuit city, a few others) then you will need to either cut off the harness and wire directly to the speaker OR use wire taps like I did (these let you easily and quickly remove the wires and return to stock if you sell the car and want the speakers back). I picked up a set at autozone. Any auto parts place will have em. Get 18 gauge ones which should be red in color. Then just clamp em down on the speaker wires as pictured.



Once done TEST THE SPEAKER FIRST. Make sure you get good sound from it before you go and start bolting things on. Last thing you want is to put it all back together and find out something was missed.

Then you can bolt the speaker back on. The OEM 6x9 speakers luckily have the same mounts as after market ones so just put it in and use the same torx screws you used before to secure it. Then reverse your steps to place the door back on and you are done. One note on the plastic rivets. Remove the whole center plug and place the rivet in the hole first, then insert the plug and click it in till its flush like it was originally. The fir tree fasteners just need a good whack to go back in. You'll know you did everything right if the screws line up and the card isn't loose.



And thats it for the fronts...now for the rears.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
107 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
To get at the rear speakers you will need to remove the 2 armrest panels and the rear deck carpet.

To do this first drop down the rear seats and find a set of fir tree pins at each side. The small one comes out easy. The large one will require a little leverage (screwdriver) to pop free.



Now, you'll need to start removing the rear panels. To do this, you'll want to remove 1 screw first in the doorsill. Pull up the rear end of the long door sill trim and under it you will find the single phillips head screw. (sorry took the pic after removing screw and popping panel but you get the idea)



Now the rest of the panel is held in my simple clips. There are a few near the top and a few near the center. Just pull straight out and it will release. Then shimmy the panel back a few inches so that the carpet will clear.



Once both panels are released then just pull back on the carpet. You pay need to pull up at the rear center a bit as mine had a small square velcro patch holding it in. At the edges under the frame trim just shimmy it and it will come lose. No need to remove the trim panel and possibly set off your air bags.

Now you will have access to the rear deck. As you can see there are 3 locations. left and right side clearly have the speakers. The big silver square is a factory piece of dynamat type material covering the OEM sub hole. You'd see a sub if equipped. Each speaker is secured by 3 phillips head screws.



Now for the rear speakers you are going to have clearance issues for the back screw. You'll need to have a low profile screwdriver to get it out. Since all my regular tools were in Virginia and I was in Ohio I improvised.



Again bask in these quality 6.5" paper speakers. Is this really all they can afford at $30k+? Yes your kicker speaker setup is 99% certain to be similar paper crap. You bought an amp and sub. Thats about it...and I feel sorry for you that you spent that much on the amp and sub they provide too.



ANYWAY! 3 Phillips head screws out. Pull speakers out and unclip as you did before. I applied some more accumat to the rear mounting area. Also following the speaker chart in the first post remember to connect everything up right. The connections will be the same as with the front speakers so I won't go into depth again here. Once done wiring up again TEST FIRST! If everything is good then you can reinstall the speakers.

Here's where thinsg are big diff. Most 6.5" speakers have 4 screw down points. These cars have 3. My speakers had the tri point adapers but as I warned before make sure you have some before installing. Connect them to the speaker before installing in the car. After that just screw the actual speaker in and you are set.



Oh, also use the foam that comes with the speakers usually and line the rim. This gives the speaker a soft interface between the panels and the speaker and also prevents vibration/spacing. This goes for the fronts (I hope you read all this before starting). The rear deck carpeting has a wire mesh reinforcing the carpet since its thinner here for sound to pass through.

Finally just reverse the removal instructions to replace all the carpet and panels. The panels might need a good few hits to secure. I found that banging in the top center clip first helped the rest get in. This might take a few minutes of practice but they will go back in.

Well thats it. If you have any questions by all means ask!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
107 Posts
Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
I'm assuming you're still using the factory amp and radio. How do the new speakers sound with the stock radio?
Nope, never had an amp and swapped the factory radio back when I got the car. The factory speakers were too muddled for me with the new radio so they had to go.

Oh yea, if anyone is curious about how to get at the 3.5" speakers in the dash see my post about installing a NAV radio. I had to pop the same panel when installing the antenna.

http://www.challengertalk.com/forums/f39/how-gps-radio-install-5327/
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
422 Posts
YOU COULDN'T HAVE POSTED THIS YESTERDAY!!!!!!!!

LOL I figured it out and took pretty much all the same pics you did of the front... I didn't do the back yet. I pulled the Pioneers out of my old car, but I totally forgot about the 3 screw thing... so I "GUESS" I'm just gonna have to go out and buy some more speakers :bigthumb:

Also I left the factory front stick out thing the same as it was... it seemed to be a bit more than just a splash sheild as it had some funny grooves in it, I got my speakers to kind of squish but I have problems with the screw holes not lining up so I only used 2 screws to hold it in. I packed em down pretty tight and there wasn't any vibration noises etc...

I have the factory amp with the 6 speaker system and it does sound awesome. You can really notice a difference even when you are just setting the speaker in place... out of the hole its like bee bee bee... and once you set it in its like booom booom booom :bigthumb:

Cheers on the most excellent writeup :D

P.S. thanks on the front grill removal
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
5,228 Posts
FWIW I swapped out my speakers with Alpine's and they made it sound a lot better over the stock speakers with the factory HU.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
780 Posts
Really good post. Straight forward and informative. I probably couldnt have gotten a better set of instructions from Crutchfield. THANKS
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
7,288 Posts
Nice detailed write up. Good job! :bigthumb:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
647 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,614 Posts
Excellent write up and information. I'm definitely going to use this info a little later on down the mod road:) For now, though, I'm going to book mark this thread for future reference.:bigthumb:
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
5,228 Posts
Hey Airman... did you have a problem with your one touch down on your windows after this? I seem to have a problem with mine now?
I didn't have this problem.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
422 Posts
I'm gonna disconnect the battery, and might have to pull the door apart again to make sure i connected everything right... I tried the reset procedure and it didn't work. The passenger side works, so i dunno if something isn't connecting right or what?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
33 Posts
I'm gonna disconnect the battery, and might have to pull the door apart again to make sure i connected everything right... I tried the reset procedure and it didn't work. The passenger side works, so i dunno if something isn't connecting right or what?

I had the same thing happen today. Weird....
The down function on the driver side is dead :icon_confused:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
220 Posts
FWIW - I did not have this problem, and had each door panel completely disconnected for at least 15 min while I fit each custom adapter I made. I had not disconnected the battery either (I know, cardinal sin).
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
253 Posts
AirmanPika, Very Nice Documentation of The Speaker Story. I am supposed to have a buzzing speaker replaced by the Dealer this Monday 3/16, now I'm Scared they will FLUB It. I think I'd rather do it myself! I wonder if they will give me the New speaker? Damm..the last time this Dealer pulled off a Door Panel for a bad window regulator on my New '97 Neon (2 Door Highline, Black) I could stick my fingers down between the glass and the Cat Wiskers!! WOW ... HOW Could you NOT SEE that??? Needless to say I took it Back.

Thanks Again, Good Job, and I like the Gasket/Foam between the speaker and Door. Many Marine Speakers come Standard with that Stuff! One problem with Many Marine speakers is they Have a built in Face Plate/Cover.

PS:I would suggest Waterproof Marine Speakers with Poly Cones! And Heat shrink Connectors for the Wires (I'm Pretty Anal)

I Install Marine Electronics and Stereos.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
51 Posts
Rear Deck Speakers...

Airman....i called up Crutchfield today and wanted to order the same rear speakers as you had installed ....but they told they would not fit :ugh2:

...did you encounter any type of problems installing them in the rear deck~~~any type of mod on your part :icon_confused:

thanks....
 
1 - 20 of 99 Posts
Top