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I did this to mine. First upgraded just the four speakers since that's all I had. Sounded like crap so I added 3.5's to the i/p dash mounts and spliced them into the door wires. Sounded great then. You would be surprised how much this drastically changes the sound quality, especially with some quality 3.5's. These don't have a max depth as they are open behind them. I went even further with this and added an amp for all six speakers. Put in a line-converter to give pre-outs for front, rear, and sub, then got six channel amp and wired up all six speakers individually (got rid of the splicing) and another amp and sub........ahhhh, the sound of a greatly tuned setup.......

P.S. I actually at one point swapped out the harness for six speakers wiring harness and added the factory upgrade kicker amp, but I didn't like how the internal crossovers clip the highs and mids out of the door speakers and drown out the rears, this is why I changed the setup around. Keeping it that way would have completely negated having quality 6x9's in the door or good 6.5's in the rear.
 

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When I powered them on stock, they were still miles better than the four speaker setup. Now, like I said, I'm using line-converter with a six channel amp powering the six speakers - which is even better. Much better.
 

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challenger_guy when spliced the dash mounted speakers to the door speakers,where did you splice?in the dash behind the stereo or in each door?
 

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challenger_guy: Did you use one line converter? I picked one up to install a amp/sub, but after seeing what you've done I'm contemplating doing the same (replace my stock 4 speaker system w/ better 6x9's, 6.5's and adding a sub).

Are there any draw backs to splitting the singal RCA output to two? One for the speaker amp and one for the sub amp?

v/r
Joe
 

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How about measurements for the front 6X9's? How deep can we go before hitting sheet metal? How far out can the midrange/tweeter dome stick out before being in contact with the door's cover?

I don't trust Crutchfield's advice since they stated that 6.5's were what came stock and would fit. Granted, if I were in a pinch, I'd get a 6X9 reducer to fit 6.5's, but I don't want to give up the extra bass the 6X9's give.

On top of the initial info Crutchfield gave, they then stated that three of the 6X9's in theri stock would fit the doors, and of course, all cost more than $150/pair.

So, if anybody can help me with the depth/height measurements, I will be very thankful.
 

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I just discovered that Dodge makes a shifter for the challenger that replaces the 6 speed small pistol grip. Part # P5155284AB Are ther any photos of this shifter installed?
 

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2011 challenger R/T classic Love It

First time on this forum, glad to be talking to you mopar buff's. Changing all my speakers to JBL's and started dyno-matting car, but getting a little to pricy so i tried using rubberized/paintable undercoating inside door panel and other areas, then using bedlining on inside of doors for sound proofing what does anyone think, should it work.
 

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Thank You!!! I can now go buy those JL's & a New HU one quick question about the 3.5's in the dash, any clearance issues ? same goes for the 6x9... also, In the past I've used those glorious 6.25's (oem ) chopped them up as mounting brackets, & if I remove the oem dynamat, I'll probably enjoy the stealth box a little more, as opposed to dropping the seats, no ?
 

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thanks, I need to tap into bostons until amp and speakers are ordered, the BA amp uses inputs from the factory head unit to fade, no biggie unless hooking up "imprint" alpine module for the 512 band EQ and process for mic... If you use factory harness and have the upgraded system with amplifier you hook up front aftermarket radio outputs, to rear on harness, that way guidance and other BT voices still work over speakers, now thats going by latest info, the fader thing is right im sure, as when i did alpine front output to rear only on harness, all speakers worked. So rear will be run off alpine rear, door and dash are tricked into being just front, so now Ill have time alignment capabilties until I decide on rainbow CS Vanadium's, or CDT Audio 62IUS (with ES-6 woofer kevlar/glass) and "upstage" 2nd tweets that roll off nicely with main tweets. I like image response, I like my stage up front, wouldnt mind trying these, but those German Rainbows are so nice. Morels have a pair still in the running with a killer 6db cross-over, very tight, most speakers cant do that, hand wound voice coils, Isreali made bad boys. heck, I am leaning towards the JL 450/4 as I have the 500/1 and it just hits hard hard for a 500 watter, and if my box is what i hope, that should keep me under the 1000 watt class with no cheater amp BS.
 

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that might be rambling sorry guys, main info is with the factory amp you cant fade, so one cant use any time alignment feature found on higher end kenwoods, JVC, Clarion and Alpine uses Audessy like a lot of home amps use, this unlike other mentioned uses a mic and a laptop and software to adjust to car specific peaks and valley's to get the most out of your stereo sound, for audiophiles, the alpine GPS was fine but NavTeq maps sucked, for a week until a free update with better detail and control/GUI, this is the INA-W900BT on huge sales due to new model with HD radio built in, caveat is, you need the $600 module to use MultiEQ/Imprint with newest units, so its a steal for true audiophiles right now to get this one @ $360 off I got this, unless you can stand a single din, the older MiCintosh, Harmon Kardon, or new stage 4 from poineer is killer, I just like a big 7" screen, I like GPS but feel like a doehead in a $30,000+ car with a stupid tomtom on my dash, i bought a loaded edge, one trip down to Houston from Chi town and the best Navi out was returened for a Alpine Blackird (great idea poorley designed) returned for a Pioneer Avic z3, which are great units really, nice maps.
 

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I have a 2012 SRT8 392 with a Harman Kardon system in this beast and have decided to take the weak stock subs out, and replace them with Arc Audio Black series 12"s run by a Arc Audio KS1200.1. I found a thread on another forum that had the wiring diagram for a 2010 srt8's head-unit. I found the same wires coming out of mine, and decided to use them for my amp input.
I am so stuck now! :/
When I turn my volume up and down the subs don't turn up and down.
They stay the same level??!! If anyone has any info on what I can do I'll buy ya a case of beer!!
 

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Does your amp have high level speaker inputs and a bass control knob/remote?
 

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Sound...

So when I installed my new speakers in the doors, I wanted to verify if they turned on, and sure enough they did, but barely any sound came out, is this normal? the stock ones did this too. Am doing something wrong, is my stock deck busted? Please help!
 

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So when I installed my new speakers in the doors, I wanted to verify if they turned on, and sure enough they did, but barely any sound came out, is this normal? the stock ones did this too. Am doing something wrong, is my stock deck busted? Please help!
I just swapped my speakers out thanks to the help of this thread!!! My speakers sounded "tinny" and not very loud until I put the door panel back on then they were fine...
 

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Huge Thanks Airman!! Learned to ditch those paper cones years ago. Negotiating panel, fastener, and linkage removal has always been an uncomfortable experience. Your post and pictures are fab and will certainly take the tension out of the exercise. Well done, rock on!
Irish
 
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