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Yeah the back are supposedly 6.5" but they're not. Why're actually somewhere between that and 7". And with that stupid tripod screw setup they make it terrible to change without a speaker harness for the back. Good thing is you can use a speaker harness for rear or front as long as they're for a dodge/Chrysler. I put ones for the front in the back and they worked fine. I believe they're metra 82-6600. My pioneer 2 way I bought that are 6.5" are no where near big enough to even cover the screw holes. Also, it could be the mounting depth of your speakers you have to take into consideration. The speakers themselves cant be much taller even with the mount than the original speakers.


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Does the Challenger come with the same factory wiring harness regardless of which speaker system (Alpine or Harmon Kardon) is factory installed?
 

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factory Boston Acrapsticks rear deck center single woofer

I have the upgrade $1500 stereo, around 368 watts? Getting lost on these topics, followed a few posts and today just changed out the boston acraptsticks rear left and right speakers with some nice JBL/harmons thanks to all these topic, which stopped the speaker distortion issues I was having and added much needed clarity. I am not going to add a new sub in the trunk, just leaving as is with the small sub in the dash. But what have you all done with the this stock radio upgrade with the REAR center woofer? did you leave what was there or is there something that will make better low end bass? Or better to leave as is?
 

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factory Boston Acrapsticks rear deck center single woofer

I have the upgrade $1500 stereo, around 368 watts? Getting lost on these topics, followed a few posts and today just changed out the boston acraptsticks rear left and right speakers with some nice JBL/harmons thanks to all these topic, which stopped the speaker distortion issues I was having and added much needed clarity. I am not going to add a new sub in the trunk, just leaving as is with the small sub in the dash. But what have you all done with the this stock radio upgrade with the REAR center woofer? did you leave what was there or is there something that will make better low end bass? Or better to leave as is?
That 8” speaker in the rear deck is at an extreme disadvantage when it comes adding low end bass.
  • it’s only an 8” woofer
  • it’s enclosure type is Free-Air
  • it’s not getting much power from factory amp (? watts RMS)
  • it’s a factory speaker, so it is on lower end of quality scale
If you want low-end bass, having that 8” factory installed speaker back there is better than nothing I suppose, but just barely.

If you do not want to add an (larger) aftermarket sub in trunk to deliver the bass, you can upgrade that factory installed 8” woofer with an aftermarket 8” sub that is meant to operate in a free-air setting. There aren’t many available that fit that criteria (while still being somewhat affordable), but there is at least 1 or 2 that can be found on Crutchfield or Amazon and won’t break the bank, IIRC.

I used to have one bookmarked somewhere, and I will try and find that to update this post with the info. That upgrades the speaker, but the factory amp may be under driving the new aftermarket sub, so that’s another caveat to this approach you should keep in mind.

Another way to go with that upgrade would be to find a suitable 8” sub you can afford and can work well on available power from factory amp, but which is meant to be mounted in a sealed enclosure. Replace the factory 8” speaker with that upgraded choice meant for sealed, and then construct the optimum sized sealed enclosure for it yourself. Now, that box will obviously need to be made so that it can be attached to the underside of the deck, immediately below the speaker, otherwise it’s not going to help much.

That way is definitely more work, but it has a much better ROI in terms of bass output delivered beyond what factory setup could do. So that’s an option to consider as well...

I’ll update this thread with whatever I can find on those free-air subs and the custom sealed box. I know I have bookmarks for them somewhere, but finding them could take me a minute...
 

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Thanks for the info. and while we are on the topic, my rear deck JBL/Harmon club 6520s that I put in started rattling against the plastic adapter ring between the rear metal deck and/or the the speaker. As a noob, how in the world do I stop that, do I put a silicon between the metal deck and the ring adapter and something between the plastic adapter and the speaker? only worked for 2 days this way then started the annoying vibrating. If I push down on the ring adapter between the 3 mounting screws hard down towards the rear deck it stops.

jbl.jpg
 

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I found a couple of links I was talking about in my previous post, but they are expired or 404 now, so had to do a little inter-webs searching for myself. I found a couple options for the subwoofer on Crutchfield:
One is 4 ohm and other is capable of 2 ohm operation. Both are identical in other params, so depending on whether or not the amp powering the speaker is 2 ohm capable or not, that will be the decisive factor for choosing between those particular 2.

(I found one more on their site, but it’s $180, so I won’t list it here. Search their site for 8” infinite baffle if you want to see it.)

If you were going to go with one of those for a rear deck upgrade, I would suggest getting an aftermarket amp to push it. The factory amp would do the job, bu a good aftermarket one would do it better...probably much better...though that’s relative to each person I guess.

Adding an aftermarket amp to trunk could be done without sacrificing space if done right. See this thread for an example: https://www.chargerforums.com/threads/tutorial-how-to-install-an-8-sub-in-the-rear-deck-and-make-a-cheap-amp-rack.81444/

Also, I ran across more than one thread that stated the factory amps that power a factory sub were capable of pushing 100w RMS for sub channel. So if an upgraded amp was being shopped, it should be able to provide >100w RMS at whatever the chosen sub’s impedance is.

Nuke
 

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I found a couple of links I was talking about in my previous post, but they are expired or 404 now, so had to do a little inter-webs searching for myself. I found a couple options for the subwoofer on Crutchfield:
One is 4 ohm and other is capable of 2 ohm operation. Both are identical in other params, so depending on whether or not the amp powering the speaker is 2 ohm capable or not, that will be the decisive factor for choosing between those particular 2.

(I found one more on their site, but it’s $180, so I won’t list it here. Search their site for 8” infinite baffle if you want to see it.)

If you were going to go with one of those for a rear deck upgrade, I would suggest getting an aftermarket amp to push it. The factory amp would do the job, bu a good aftermarket one would do it better...probably much better...though that’s relative to each person I guess.

Adding an aftermarket amp to trunk could be done without sacrificing space if done right. See this thread for an example: https://www.chargerforums.com/threads/tutorial-how-to-install-an-8-sub-in-the-rear-deck-and-make-a-cheap-amp-rack.81444/

Also, I ran across more than one thread that stated the factory amps that power a factory sub were capable of pushing 100w RMS for sub channel. So if an upgraded amp was being shopped, it should be able to provide >100w RMS at whatever the chosen sub’s impedance is.

Nuke
Wow, people have talent. Me being me Id try the 2ohm first unpowered to see how that works. Thanks for the info :)
 

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Wow, people have talent. Me being me Id try the 2ohm first unpowered to see how that works. Thanks for the info :)
oh yeah, i am constantly amazed at what some people can do with ordinary from-scratch DIY projects and make it look professional.

i belong to a couple car audio forums, but i don't dare post pics of my caveman-looking audio project builds.

Next to what most folks on those sites accomplish with their audio builds, mine looks like somebody gave an orangutan some plywood and a hatchet, tied one of his arms behind his back, got him drunk, and then turned him loose to build whatever.

Function over form! That's always been my motto ?
 

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If you do end up adding aftermarket amps, etc - here is another option.... Assuming your Challenger came without a spare tire like mine, you can use the empty spare-tire-well as a good place to install amps.

I installed both my Rockford Fosgate DSR1 (factory integrationa and DSP for ~$250!) and my JL Audio XD600/6v2 amp (6x75W RMS). With this setup, I have complete control over every aspect of every speaker in the car. Full 31-band-per-channel parametric EQ, digital crossovers, time alignment, phase switching, speaker gain controls, etc. Talk about being able ot tune the system the way you want it! :)

For my first real amp install, it turned out pretty damn good - and is 100% "hidden". It helps that the battery is right next the the spare-tire-well in the trunk. :)




Once you close the "trap door" int he trunk, you would never even know it was there - and since the amp is class-D, heat is not an issue at all.



LOTS more detailed info/running log of the install here:
https://www.challengertalk.com/threads/2018-challenger-alpine-6-speaker-amplified-system-upgrades.671131/
 

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Nice, so is it safe to assume you didn’t strap the spare to the roof or something hillbilly like that right? It’s just left behind in garage I hope... :D

If you haven’t made one yet, I would strongly advise putting together a flat tire kit to keep in the car since you won’t have the spare in an emergency.

I used to keep a small duffle bag about the size of a big ham in mine. It had a tire plug kit and some needle nose pliers and box cutters to help make using it easier. And then there was the 12v mini-air compressor and separate psi gauge since the ones on those compressors is never accurate. And we can’t forget the ancillary yet very useful stuff like gloves, flashlight(s) with extra batteries, and insect repellant.

That kit saved my bacon several times when I had the two 6 cylinder Challengers. I never carried a spare in them to keep dead weight to minimum. (Acceleration was always just too much of a struggle to be lugging around 50lbs of spare and jack and such if I could get by without it)

Now that I have the Bacon Hauler I keep the spare in it though. Haven’t had to use it yet thankfully, but it’s there ready to go if I ever need it!
 

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My GT didn't come with a spare tire - but it does have that compressor which contains some sort of sealant (you can see it on the far left of the styrofoam piece). So if I were ever to get a flat, hopefully that would allow me to get back up and running long enough to get it somewhere to get it fixed. Thankfully, it's been a LONG time (if ever?) since I've been stranded due to a flat tire, so I don't worry about it too much (famous last words!). I really should keep some sort of flashlight in there too though (I'm hooked on those LED lights that you strap on your head - those things are so handy!). So yeah - I'll have to put together a basic kit like you mentioned - that is a great idea.
 

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I don't know how well the dodge-provided fix-a-flat works, but the OTC stuff I've tried over the years has a spotty track record for getting me back on the road.

Many of the flats I've had while on some road trip would be due to some broken screw or bolt that was run over, embedded into the tread, and then jostled around long enough to finally bust through the tread and cause an air leak. Those are nasty punctures, and they aren't normally sealed by fix-a-flat.

And if the puncture is on the edge of the tread and into the sidewall a little, the fix-a-flat stuff will only do a temporary job of sealing in my experience. Once the sidewall really flexes (like in a pot hole), the sealant loses its seal and the tire loses its air shortly thereafter.

The regular old tire plugs that no one uses anymore will work in both of those scenarios in my experience.

And yes, those headband flashlights are very useful, but look for one that has multiple color LED lights, white and red specifically.

Forget about the ones that advertise a strobe, flood, spot or any other fancy effect of the LEDs on the headlamp. None of that stuff is useful when it's 1 am and you're on the side of the road trying to get the car band-aided enough to get off the highway and close enough to civilization that someone will find you if you break down again. What will be invaluable in that situation is a headlamp that has a regular white light beam and at least one setting that turns on red lights (which are NOT strobe).

If you have to spend even 5 minutes laying under the car or draped over the fender trying to repair something at night, you WANT the red light available to keep the mosquitoes from feasting upon your exposed flesh. I cannot stress how much you will thank me for this if it ever comes to pass that you need to use it!
 

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What did you use for your remote wire for the amp? Where did you connect it to?
if you have a LOC in between the rear speaker wire tap and sub amp, it should have a remote out slot you can use for running a wire into the sub amps remote on input slot.

if not using a LOC and going high level inputs on sub amp, the remote input on amp should be unnecessary as it will pick up on the high level signals and turn on in response.
 

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Well I guess i should have clarified better.. hahah Im using a lc7i and need to tap into a remote because the way Im using it, it doesnt turn on automatically with speaker input.
 

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If it is getting speaker input in, it should power up the remote out. How are you using it that it will not recognize the need to power up at first speaker signal?
 

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When I installed my subs in my trunk, I ran the remote wire to the fuse in the fuse box for the front cigarette lighter since it turns on and off with the key. Of course the amp is wired to the battery for positive and negative and then to my aftermarket touch screen with rca patch cable


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According to the Audio Control webpage https://www.audiocontrol.com/knowledge-base/can-multi-channel-line-converter-take-single-stereo-input-distribute-outputs/ I will have to wire the speaker out to input 2 of the lc7i, and will have to run a remote turn on lead.
Okay, if you are not using the main inputs then yes, you would need to provide a remote in. In that case, you should probably tap the 12v accessory fuse in rear PDC like @Ashiva noted, as it is only hot with ignition in accessory position or run position.

That would be easiest I think as long as LOC is mounted in rear of vehicle. If not mounted in rear, you’ll have to get creative...or run a really long wire back to rear PDC to tap that fuse.
 
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