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I’ve never tracked a car before, and I want to run my 14 srt 392 on a road circuit. Nothing competitive, just for fun. I have a friend that is really big into it. He builds e30 track cars, and he’s been giving me advice to get started. First things first, I want to make sure the car is properly set up for safety.


About the car :
Michelin pilot super sport - staggered 275/295
Barton shifter
K&N drop-in
Straight pipes
52k miles
Stock 4 piston brembos


The following are the mods that my buddy suggested


Stainless brake lines
High temp brake fluid
New OEM brembo pads
180* tstat w/ tune
Dual core radiator & fans
Sway bars


Please chime in with any other mods you think I need, or if you think any of the above are unnecessary.


Thanks
 

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Handling-wise, make sure you brace your towers front and rear. Front made a huge improvement in the road feel. Just put the BMR rear brace yesterday and it seems to help even a little more.
 

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high quality brake fluid is a must, something like



and depends on your budget, the list of mods can be exhausting:grin2:
 

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There is a member that has a nice set of rims for sale that he used when he tracked his car. Maybe check out the " for sale " section and see if they peak your interest? Other then that. Drive it as is and don't overdrive it and have fun. You will find out what you need , based upon your experience.
 

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The one mod that would be worthwhile doing now would be the brake fluid. Brake fade will make you have to take a break sooner then you might want. The car is heavy. Everything else can wait to see how much you like it before throwing as much money as you want down a bottomless pit. You might need new tires if you have a hardcore weekend.
 

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The engine and car must be problem free. No "minor" coolant leak or oil leak.

You do *not* want to leak coolant or oil on the track, or on your rear tires, for obvious reasons.

The cooling system must be pressure tight even if the coolant temperature is very high. With other cars I've seen 226F coolant temperature even on the street (well, mountain road) with the car being pushed hard. If the system can't hold pressure the extra fans and low temp T-stat won't matter. The coolant will flash to steam and the steam blocks coolant flow over the hottest areas and localized engine overheating occurs and kiss the head gasket good bye.

The oil/filter should be very fresh and at the right level. (Be sure to carry extra bottles of oil in case at the track the level drops. Have a friend carry them in his vehicle.)

Other vital fluids should be good too.

The engine should be in good tune. Spark plugs should be in good condition. Better to err on the side of caution and show up with new plugs rather than old plugs. Do not use anti-seize on the plugs.

Air filter and fuel filter (if serviceable) should be fresh.

The brake hardware should have plenty of metal.

Be sure you check pads for uneven wear from every angle. The visible portion of the pads might show quite a bit of pad thickness, while the hidden portions may be nearly to the backing plate. The rotors should likewise not be too thin nor show signs of cracking or other abnormalities.

The brake fluid should be flushed and bled. Brake fluid is hygroscopic -- attracts moisture -- and if the fluid gets hot and it will to state the obvious the water lowers its boiling point. Ain't nothing like coming upon a sharp/slow turn and hitting the brakes and pedal sinks nearly to the floorboard.


Tires should have plenty of tread, be properly inflated and have no slow leaks. They should be properly balanced. Be sure the lug bolts are properly torqued down.


Alignment doesn't have to be anything special but it wants to be in spec.

The car should have nothing loose. No loose underbody panels, no loose exhaust. No leaking exhaust either.

Be sure you run unleaded race gas in a ratio with street gasoline to raise the octane level a few points above what the engine calls for. For instance if the owners manual says to use 91 shoot for 93 or higher. As time passes an engine's octane requirement can go up.

In some cases tests have found pure race gasoline delivers more than just a higher octane to combat detonation the racing gasoline is really blended to burn better at higher RPMs. So the advice is to when race gasoline is available to run this diluted as little as possible with street gasoline. However, some report the high octane "race" gas really appears to offer nothing beyond higher octane. Guess you have to try it diluted and then maybe a lot less diluted and see what it does for your car's engine.

Be sure the car -- cabin, glove box, storage compartments, the back seat, and under the front seats, trunk, everywhere -- is free of any loose items. You don't want something rattling/banging around to distract you. Nor do you want an old stuffed toy to come out from under your seat and get under a pedal or cause you to get your feet tangled up going for a downshift and braking for a hard/sharp turn.

Mirror inside and out should be clean and streak free.


Likewise, glass inside and out should be clean. No streaks which hit by the sun possibly blinding you or distracting you.

Be sure you dress appropriately. The cabin can get quite hot. Drink plenty of water. Stay hydrated.

Bring appropriate snacks to keep your energy level up. Don't OD on coffee or energy drinks. No alcohol.

If you can arrange for a wife, GF, buddy to video your laps for later enjoyment, that's always a good thing. And she/he can drive in a 2nd car so you have a place to stash extra oil, water bottles, your jacket, billfold, phone, etc. (out of sight and the car locked!) while you are on the track.

Be careful in the "pits". You don't want to get run over by another driver not paying attention or still racing even though he's off the course. Keep your eyes wide open and your head on a swivel.


Take a cool down lap and in the pits let the engine idle to shed the considerable heat load the engine develops on the track.


Last but not least be sure you have adequate track insurance just in case.
 

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highly recommend you tag along with an experience buddy, first day at school can be very intimidating.....also if your at a track that offers driving assistance, well worth the money, whatever you thought you knew about driving, can be thrown out the window

a really good place to start is with NASA Pro Racing and HPDE events

they will force you into novice class and you will have a on board instructor to help you get started

https://www.nasaproracing.com/hpde/

at the very beginning worry about your driving, not so much about improving the car.....as your abilities improve, then modify the car, much too often people forget the most important mod, the driver

ps, make sure the car is sound as previously stated, torque wrench on hand, check lug nuts before every track on track session, good quality air gauge, carry extra fluids,
 

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It’s a good list except the radiator/fans. The SRT has good cooling system. Your buddy might not be familiar with our cars. Tune along with 180* helps with cooling as well. I’d say SS brake lines are not necessary yet but if you’re doing DOT 4 brake fluid you might as well.

Must bed the brakes in before you hit the track. Very important.

I’d concentrate more on driver mod than spending money unnecessarily.

The SRT trim is already “occasional” track ready.
Also very important to have the right tire temperatures.
Torque your wheels at proper specs and check them a couple of times during the event.
Traction is one of the most crucial mods too.

Just go out there and have fun.
 

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The first mod you should do is a suit, gloves, shoes, great helmet, harness bar, harnesses, and a HANS. Worry about the other shit later. They aren't strict enough on safety at track days. You are going 130 on the straights on some tracks in a 392. Hella screwed if you plow into someone, a barrier, tree, or if someone hits you. You can get a bolt in harness bar and put it in only for track days. Your neck is well worth the small investment and burning will surely ruin your day.

After that get tires, 18" wheels, fluid, lines, and track day pads. Switch them out at the track. With the Brembos it takes 10 minutes to put the pads in while you change the tires over. I don't seem to overheat during normal session so I don't know if the radiator is needed.
 

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OH and what the previous guy said about brake fluid. The high temp stuff doesn't last as long as OEM so like he said bleed it all out and change it regularly. Get speed bleeders. They will save you a lot of time. Chalk your tires to get the right pressure. Get a good mount for your cell phone and use Harrys lap timer and an OBD2 bluetooth device so you get all the overlays. I use a Ram-x grip mount that I modified with a Dremel so I can mount the phone up high and to the left of the rearview mirror. My phone sits horizontal and the camera is out to the right side of the mount. Modified to get the right angle so as not to see the mount in the videos.

Don't mod any further either. Get used to the car like it is so you know what you need later. Practice will get you a heck of a lot further than more mods.

OH except one mod you might want. A CAI really helped my intake temps by like 20 degrees. I have the Afe one and love it.
 

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The first mod you should do is a suit, gloves, shoes, great helmet, harness bar, harnesses, and a HANS. Worry about the other shit later. They aren't strict enough on safety at track days. You are going 130 on the straights on some tracks in a 392. Hella screwed if you plow into someone, a barrier, tree, or if someone hits you. You can get a bolt in harness bar and put it in only for track days. Your neck is well worth the small investment and burning will surely ruin your day.

After that get tires, 18" wheels, fluid, lines, and track day pads. Switch them out at the track. With the Brembos it takes 10 minutes to put the pads in while you change the tires over. I don't seem to overheat during normal session so I don't know if the radiator is needed.
My father-in-law raced SCCA for many years, he retired when he was 70 (Formula Vee, open wheel) and I have seen some weird unusual stuff happen on the track including upside down and or cars in flag stations, and people killed. His nose of his car got destroyed one time when a ground hog ran out on the track, he was going about 115 and it destroyed the nose, battery, pedal assembly... The groundhog basically evaporated.
Great post! Safety equipment is a must in an environment like that, especially if you plan on doing it regularly. They more you push the envelope, the closer you are to opening it up all the way like Pandora's box.
 

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My father-in-law raced SCCA for many years, he retired when he was 70 (Formula Vee, open wheel) and I have seen some weird unusual stuff happen on the track including upside down and or cars in flag stations, and people killed. His nose of his car got destroyed one time when a ground hog ran out on the track, he was going about 115 and it destroyed the nose, battery, pedal assembly... The groundhog basically evaporated.
Great post! Safety equipment is a must in an environment like that, especially if you plan on doing it regularly. They more you push the envelope, the closer you are to opening it up all the way like Pandora's box.
I did my first SCCA Time trial recently and I was suprised that they don't require more. Just long pants and closed toe shoes.
 

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I did my first SCCA Time trial recently and I was suprised that they don't require more. Just long pants and closed toe shoes.
I have done SOLO/Autocross and only needed helmet (approved) and what you described, and that is fair for basically no chance of 2 vehicles colliding. I had a blast both times, once in his Formula Vee but I could never have tracked it, I was too tall. Your top of helmet needs to be 2" below top of roll bar...
And I did SOLO once in my Shelby Charger Turbo. I would definitely say that drag racing is boring and tame compared to SOLO/Autocross, and a lot more drive dependent. I am not knocking drag racing at all, I love it too, and respect those racers that are .01 sec consistent, but man SOLO is work
 

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I did my first SCCA Time trial recently and I was suprised that they don't require more. Just long pants and closed toe shoes.
most sanctioning bodies are trying to get people involved and once you suggest 2k in safety equipment, people simply dont show up

unfortunate, but reality, been racing most of my life, first drag racing and then dirt oval and now road course, been upside down 4 times and on fire twice, did not enjoy any of it, however equipment was good and I walked away with mostly a bruised ego
 

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my youngest daughter was involved in what i would call the big one a few weeks before turning 18, the engine of her modified was inside the car beside her and the right front wheel embedded in the Earnhardt's bar in the middle of the windshield, custom made seat from Lajoie of Seating and the best equipment money can buy, she walked away with a mild concussion, some pretty hard seat belt burns and bruises and a hell of a sore ego
 

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I’ve never tracked a car before, and I want to run my 14 srt 392 on a road circuit. Nothing competitive, just for fun. I have a friend that is really big into it. He builds e30 track cars, and he’s been giving me advice to get started. First things first, I want to make sure the car is properly set up for safety.


About the car :
Michelin pilot super sport - staggered 275/295
Barton shifter
K&N drop-in
Straight pipes
52k miles
Stock 4 piston brembos


The following are the mods that my buddy suggested


Stainless brake lines
High temp brake fluid
New OEM brembo pads
180* tstat w/ tune
Dual core radiator & fans
Sway bars


Please chime in with any other mods you think I need, or if you think any of the above are unnecessary.


Thanks
Can you tell how much Budget you have invested into this setup?
 

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I’ve never tracked a car before, and I want to run my 14 srt 392 on a road circuit. Nothing competitive, just for fun. I have a friend that is really big into it. He builds e30 track cars, and he’s been giving me advice to get started. First things first, I want to make sure the car is properly set up for safety.


About the car :
Michelin pilot super sport - staggered 275/295
Barton shifter
K&N drop-in
Straight pipes
52k miles
Stock 4 piston brembos


The following are the mods that my buddy suggested


Stainless brake lines
High temp brake fluid
New OEM brembo pads
180* tstat w/ tune
Dual core radiator & fans
Sway bars


Please chime in with any other mods you think I need, or if you think any of the above are unnecessary.


Thanks
I'm doing almost the same thing as you. I have a '13 SRT8 Manual with the Barton shifter, CAI, and straight pipes.

My first track day I didn't do anything to the car besides the safety inspection stuff (check the oil, check the brakes, etc). The reality is, early on you're going to be no where near the limits of your vehicle. You're likely going to have an instructor sitting shotgun and you're going to be more focused on learning to hit the apexes and proper lines rather than setting lap time records.

Just make sure your car is safe and go have fun. I went out with a fully stock car (aside from the shifter, air intake, and hack job on the exhaust) and had no issues. Not even brake fade. But, again, I wasn't really pushing.

But first upgrades should definitely be brakes related. The high temperature brake fluid is a really important thing to get once you start hitting braking zones aggressively. You don't want to vapor lock your brakes! I've been recommended Motul RBF600. I'm planning to do a brake fluid flush with that before my next track day. A liter of Motul RBF600 was only about $40.

I'm also going to put on some performance pads. You don't have to change the rotors. In fact, a lot of people told me "spend hundreds on the pads, but buy the cheapest rotors you can find." Sounds like the car's going to chew through rotors hauling in that much mass. The brake pads I got were only about $60 for the fronts and $60 for the rears. So, that seems like a really reasonable cost.

After that, I plan to upgrade my tires. I'm still researching tires. I'm in the PNW, so I need a track tire that's good in the rain. I was kinda thinking about Continental Extreme Sports, but I know the Pilot Sport 4S is a great tire, too. It'll very likely be one of those two.

Then, start slapping on suspension mods! Honestly, the engine has plenty of power for people relatively new to track days. It's the turns where you want to improve. The speed through and out of a turn is huge for a lap time. Eibach makes a sway bar upgrade kit for both front and rear that's only about $450. The strut tower braces (front and rear) are pretty pricey, but I hear they're worth it. And, of course, a coilover kit is the ultimate goal.

Other than that, the only mod I'm planning is to get a carbon fiber hood. I'm not really trying to "add lightness," but I wanted to swap out the hood for a different style and figured if I was going to spend the money for a hood I might as well get a lighter one while I'm at it.

But all of that said, the most important upgrade at the track is the driver mod. Skill is the absolute most important thing at a track. It doesn't matter if a novice is in a Viper ACR, if Randy Pobst was chasing them in a BRZ, they'd almost certainly lose. I've been passed on track by guys in MUCH less powerful cars. Just get that seat time and keep practicing and you'll shave more seconds off a lap than anything a sway bar could do for you. :)
 
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