[SpudRacer]

For the few that may know me from the SRT10FORUM.COM site, I post a lot of "How To:" articles to chronicle some of my mods, so others can learn by my mistakes, and to help others with similar aspirations.

After managing a best of only 13.59 in the 1/4mi at CF2, I got bit by the need for more speed, and since the budget can't stretch right now to accomodate a KB, I've decided to go with nitrous oxide. As this is my first attempt with nitrous, I will undoubtably make mistakes, hopefully not costly ones.

Here's my list of planned mods to complete this installation:
1. ZEX 75hp-125hp shot kit
2. Purge kit
3. Bottle warmer
4. Custom nitrous panel from Billet Technologies
5. ZEX auto Bottle Opener
6. RPM Window Switch
7. Arrington 90mm Throttle Body w/ Nitrous spray ring built-in
8. Custom Tune from AJ for Nitrous
9. Brisk 40-RR14S plugs
10. Razor's Edge 3-gauge A-pillar pod
11. Autometer A/F Wideband gauge
12. Autometer Nitrous pressure gauge
13. Autometer Fuel Pressure gauge
14. Porting out the inlet of the intake to 90mm to match the TB
15. Possibly a Kenne Bell Boost-A-Pump (if needed)

I usually post lots of clear photos as I go, so I'll start with installation of the bottle in the trunk.

1. Step one, remove the styrofoam block which holds the tire inflator and set aside.

2. Install the bottle clamps onto the bottle, and place the bottle in the trunk under the floor mat and position to where you want it installed. Then use a marker to mark the two front holes in the mounting brackets. Mind you, the outlet port on the bottle must be facing downward so consider this when placing the bottle. In the photo below, you can see the two holes marked after I removed the bottle from the trunk.

3. Using a drill, drill out these two holes, then temp install the two brackets again without the bottle, and using the marker, mark the two rear holes. Remove the brackets and drill out the two rear holes.

I then used a healthy supply of clear silicone on the inside of the trunk, on the mounting bolts, and then on the underside of the trunk before installing the rest of the hardware and tightening the bolts. Here's a photo of the brackets installed from above and below.

Here's some final shots of the bottle installed.

Goals today are to take a couple gold coins I bought 5 years ago for $530 apiece to the gold dealer downtown, and hopefully get $1400 apiece for them to fund the rest of the needed parts.

Also today, hope to install the controller under the hood, and the supply line from the bottle to the controller. Will post photos as I go...

Oh yea, no need for everyone to reply to this thread, it'll only gum it up, making it bigger, and harder for those who follow to get through it. I encourage anyone with insight who sees a mistake I've made, or am about to make to chime up and "save" me.

 

[SpudRacer]

Today's work included installing the supply line, and the ZEX Nitrous control module. I read some stories of the supply lines coming out a little short, so I installed it with as direct approach as possible and ended up with an exact length with maybe 1" to spare. When installing the supply line, if you don't keep it as straight a shot as possible, it's going to come out short.

It took some time to decide where to run the nitrous hose out of the trunk. I eventually decided to drill a hole through the upper floor level next to the battery cable. This was sort of a mistake, but not really. Had I drilled the hole 5" farther forward, I would have only had to drill through one layer of steel, but the spot I chose had two layers of steel with about 1-2" of dead space between them. It brought the braided hose out where I wanted it, above the rear cradle assembly, and the two layers will hold the hose in place better than one.

I wrapped the hose as it went through the trunk floor, and over the cradle assembly in wire looming with tape wrapped around the looming just where it went through the floor for extra security. I then used almost a half tube of clear silicone to make sure this was a water-tight seal. Here's the photos of the installed line starting at the bottle and working forward:

This is the hose running above the rear cradle...

Here's where the hose runs behind the heat shield next to the cat, and angles upwards.

I couldn't decide whether to try to hide the supply line, or leave it exposed. I decided to leave it exposed, but I think I'm going to run the hose UNDER the wire loom instead of on top of it.

I didn't care for the zinc-plated appearance of the mounting bracket for the control module, so I etch-primed it, then shot it with a coat of zinc phosphate, a dark grey metalic color. It looks much nicer then the way it came from ZEX, and is less likely to rust now.

I'm going to continue wiring up the controller over the next week, but the rest of the hoses will have to await getting the 90mm nitrous-ready throttle body from Arringtons as well as a tune to run it safely. Tempted though I am to just slap it together to test it, I'm going to resist the urge. I should be ordering the TB as well as the rest of the supplies I need to complete this installation on Tuesday.

One final note, I've decided today NOT to install a fuel pressure gauge in the Razor's Edge triple gauge pod, I decided to use an Aeroforce Interceptor gauge instead. That way I can monitor knock retard, and timing advance as well as a slew of other features which I feel are more crucial and helpful than fuel pressure. I figure if the fuel pressure drops, the wide-band A/F gauge should start showing a lean condition...

One final piece of advise.. when you go to tighten the hose fittings, be sure to use an alloy wrench made for anodized fittings. Resist the urge to grab an ordinary steel open-end wrench. If you want the fittings to stay looking like new, use anodized alloy wrenches. Nuff said.

 

[jzimnisky]

Nice wright up bro. Maby Ill go with a hidden system.lmao ^^^^^^

 

[LURCH]

Hey, Spud if you run into anything you cant get worked out we have a sort of Nitrous Guru that lives in Erwin Tn that might be able to help out if needed. Phillips Performance his name is Jon he's the best around here anyway!!!!!! I'll get you a phone number if you need it.

 

[SpudRacer]

Thanks Lurch.. HemiSam put me in touch with a guy at Nitrous Outlet who seems to know everything when it comes to Nitrous, I've been in touch with him already to decide which plug would be best to run. (Of course he prefers the Brisks!) They are nice plugs.

 

[lakersfan7272]

Great write up! Very nice

 

[VelocityBoy]

What kind of bottle heater are you using? I was using the Zex one for a while but I found that it just wasn't heating the bottle enough to keep the pressure up once you're down to 1/2 tank.

I upgraded to a high power bottle warmer that definitely helped keep the pressure up.

Nitrous oxide bottle warmer kits for 10oz to 10lb nitrous bottles.

 

[SpudRacer]

Thanks for the tip... just got back from selling two gold coins I bought about 4-5 years ago (for $531 apiece) for $1526 apiece. Funds now secured to complete this project. Ordering all the remaining parts as soon as the check clears the bank tonight or tomorrow.

 

[1FST4DR]

Excellent write up. You may want to add a nitrous filter between the bottle and the solenoids. Its cheap insurance...

 

[VelocityBoy]

+1. You definitely do not want your solenoid to get stuck open.

Tom

Excellent write up. You may want to add a nitrous filter between the bottle and the solenoids. Its cheap insurance...

 

[SpudRacer]

Thanks guys, I'll add it to the list.

Today I ordered an Arrington 90mm TB that's nitrous-ready, ZEX remote bottle opener, Autometer Cobalt Wideband A/F gauge, Autometer ProComp II Nitrous pressure gauge, Razor's Edge triple pod, and an Aeroforce Interceptor gauge as well as paying for the coating on the ARHs.

$2000 gone just that fast! Will still need the Brisk plugs, a bottle warmer, RPM window switch, a BT custom nitrous panel (already chose and bought the switches), and now a nitrous in-line filter.

Maybe I'll sell my Colt Delta Gold Cup 10mm pistol that's been shot less than 20 times..

I may be able to come up with the rest later this month, but taking the wife to Copenhagan, Denmark in 2 weeks for our 10yr wedding anniversary, followed by a 9 day Baltic cruise. That should pretty much take of care the rest of this paycheck... :thumbsup:

 

[SpudRacer]

Progress is slow...

Got the ZEX bottle opener today, and installed it.

I've also got with Billet Technology and mocked up a nitrous control panel. I've got all my switches in for the panel (nitrous arm, bottle warmer, nitrous purge, and remote bottle opener), and have mailed in the template and the switches to BT. Anticipate a good 2-3 weeks before the panel comes in. I anticipate this panel to be my piece de resistance.

I've got the 90mm nitrous-ready Throttle Body on order from Arrington's, but they apparently do not currently have any manufactured, and they anticipate a good 2-3 weeks before they can mail me one.

My Razor's Edge triple gauge pod is enroute and due to arrive this week as is the Autometer Cobalt wideband A/F gauge, the Aeroforce Interceptor gauge, and the 2-1/16" Autometer nitrous gauge. I should have all this installed later this week by Thursday evening.

Does anyone think the 90mm TB will provide more power when using nitrous than using the stock spray nozzle that comes in the kit? Also, should I install the nitrous filter at the bottle before the main supply line, or at the end of the supply line just before the ZEX controller (Solonoids)? Or doesn't it matter...

I've decided to install a purge system with the vent coming out the front of the grill just below the front camera, that way I can see the purge without spraying nitrous at the base of the windshield like others. For the record, this video is NOT of my car...

 

[VelocityBoy]

I wouldn't bother with the 90mm if you're expecting gains from nitrous, plus the bigger TBs seem to be a pain to dial in, no personal experience with it but this is coming from a few guys that use them.


I found that putting the purge outlet in front was a lot simpler plumbing than running it up through the engine bay to the back. I was originally planning to have the purge exit through the badge (the ram's nostrils back then) but it was never accomplished.

Some vids of my purge setup location.

You want the filter right after the bottle to keep the lines clear. I used a short extension from the bottle to the filter and then the full line after the filter.

Cheers,

Tom

Progress is slow...

Got the ZEX bottle opener today, and installed it.

I've also got with Billet Technology and mocked up a nitrous control panel. I've got all my switches in for the panel (nitrous arm, bottle warmer, nitrous purge, and remote bottle opener), and have mailed in the template and the switches to BT. Anticipate a good 2-3 weeks before the panel comes in. I anticipate this panel to be my piece de resistance.

I've got the 90mm nitrous-ready Throttle Body on order from Arrington's, but they apparently do not currently have any manufactured, and they anticipate a good 2-3 weeks before they can mail me one.

My Razor's Edge triple gauge pod is enroute and due to arrive this week as is the Autometer Cobalt wideband A/F gauge, the Aeroforce Interceptor gauge, and the 2-1/16" Autometer nitrous gauge. I should have all this installed later this week by Thursday evening.

Does anyone think the 90mm TB will provide more power when using nitrous than using the stock spray nozzle that comes in the kit? Also, should I install the nitrous filter at the bottle before the main supply line, or at the end of the supply line just before the ZEX controller (Solonoids)? Or doesn't it matter...

I've decided to install a purge system with the vent coming out the front of the grill just below the front camera, that way I can see the purge without spraying nitrous at the base of the windshield like others. For the record, this video is NOT of my car...

YouTube - ‪2010 Challenger Nitrous Purge‬‏

 

[SpudRacer]

I've decided on the NOS filter, and I'll put it right at the bottle with a small line.

Will also purge out the front, thanks Tom

Tom

 

[Bryan]

Nice wright up bro. Maby Ill go with a hidden system.lmao ^^^^^^

Yeah, i dont see pictures either

 

[SpudRacer]

Look what showed up on my doorstep today!

Didn't take too long to install. The only hard part was getting the rubber boot from the MOPAR CAI over the larger TB intake. Then the stock band clamp wouldn't fit, so I modified the stock one to work. Here's the installed photos.

Also assembled the fuel line today, and installed all the underhood plumbing. All that's left now is the wiring. I also got the Razor's Edge triple pod installed with the nitrous gauge, and the Autometer Cobalt Wideband A/F gauge installed, but still waiting on my Aeroforce Interceptor gauge. I didn't get any photos of the gauge pod yet..

Right now, the system looks done under the hood, but still nonfunctional. After starting it up, I found a fuel leak at the 90 degree elbow that supplies the controller with fuel. It came with some orange sealant on it, but I recommend taking it all off, and replacing it with teflon tape. A leak here will drip down onto the exhaust, and could eventually catch fire.

Now, I can't test the TB or get on it, because I still have a stock tune. Waiting for AJ to get me a safer tune. Other maintenance... I still have to pull the TB back off, and grind down the lip of the intake so it is also 90mm and matches the output of the throttle body. But I've got a car show in 2 days, so that'll have to wait.

The sound from the 90mm throttle body is AWESOME! It sounds like it could suck small children from in front of the car when you really get on it. Another thing I notice tonight during testing, was that when you let off the gas, the engine is winding down, then ABRUPTLY drops straight to idle. It sounds as though it's going to die, but the rpm never drops below idle. It's as if the throttle were suddenly chopped.

That's it for now. Glad to see the powers that be have fixed the gallery problem, so the rest of my photos are visible again.

 

[VelocityBoy]

Nice to see how it progresses. Will this be your first time racing with a nitrous assisted car?

Tom

 

[SpudRacer]

Yes, will be my first time playing with nitrous. I've decided instead of going with an RPM window to use a controller with the window built in instead. Some other Challenger owners I've talked to say when running 125hp shot they have traction problems when hitting second gear.

I'm thinking that using a controller to ramp up the nitrous over 0.5 to 1.0 seconds may help prevent that as well as decrease the risk of snapping my stock axle shafts until I can get them replaced.

Comments?

 

[VelocityBoy]

Hmm, I'm not sure if you're talking about a window switch or a progressive controller.

A window switch will automatically turn on the spray once you hit certain RPM and can optionally turn off the spray when you're just about to hit redline (or press the clutch).

A progressive controller can increase the flow rate depending on RPM.

A window switch can be programmed to start firing in second gear, though I'm not sure how to wire it up since I never used that feature.

The stock axles are actually pretty beefy and as long as you don't spray out of the hole you'll be fine. I'd probably start spraying at 3000 rpm and then start lowering it by a 100 after each run until you're on the verge of loosing traction.

With the Magnum I was spraying pretty much off the line but it was an AWD so traction was not really an issue.

Tom

Yes, will be my first time playing with nitrous. I've decided instead of going with an RPM window to use a controller with the window built in instead. Some other Challenger owners I've talked to say when running 125hp shot they have traction problems when hitting second gear.

I'm thinking that using a controller to ramp up the nitrous over 0.5 to 1.0 seconds may help prevent that as well as decrease the risk of snapping my stock axle shafts until I can get them replaced.

Comments?

 

[SpudRacer]

Right now, I'm leaning towards a progressive controller.

Had no problems driving the car yesterday to a car show and back, but today, nothing but problems. I drove it to church this am, about 23 miles away, and was 5 miles from church when I got multiple warning lights on the dash simultaneously, one was the check engine light, one was the throttle body, and one was Mr. Squiggles.

I pressed on to church, and when I got off the highway, the idle was hunting up and down all over the place. At times I would push on the gas pedal, and get nothing at all.

When I got to church, I disconnected the (+) post, then reconnected after church. Within about 5 miles, Mr. Squiggles was back on again, but no other warnings. She ran fine on the way home, but when I got to town, the engine died pulling up to a light, but fired back up, and ran fine the rest of the way home.

I emailed AJ at Arrington on Thursday trying to get a tune to run the new TB, I'm sure that's all it is, will try again tomorrow. Once I get a tune, and get it loaded, I'll report back. I'm staying out of the throttle for now so I don't hurt the engine with a lean condition, but I haven't opened up the inlet of the intake yet, so it shouldn't be that lean. Sure wish I had my Wideband A/F gauge working...